Sustainable Denim Washing | Reason Behind Seeking Sustainable Denim Production

Denim is one of the most polluting industries among all textile departments. Now a day’s, technologists are continuously trying to invent environmental and production friendly manufacturing facilities to avoid traditional procedures. Despite the ecological facts are involved this particular industry is growing rapidly than any other. Behind the giant denim industry the big issues are the huge quantity of secondhand trash, unusable stock, denim waste, high-consumption of water, hazardous chemicals and energy.

Denim is a dynamic, featuring field of fashion where the achievements of the science and new features of lifestyle are assumed in new styles. To understand the modern phenomenon of denim topic has to be accessed from different aspects. This field of fashion is rapidly growing business, thus continuous monitoring of the market is a must for all the professionals. 

Denim is also one of the biggest employers in the world. It is giving work to a lots of people: stakeholders in the textile, garment and fashion industry including small and medium enterprises and large companies, designers and creative personnel of leading global fashion houses and emerging brands, actors of the retail sector as well as there are huge interest of machinery makers, workers and technologists of the weaving mill and so on.

There is an effective cost saving aspect of sustainable denim project. In sustainability the uses of chemical and water are reduced along with energy reduction which is cost effective. For less chemical the extra cost is reducing and on the other hand less water gives less effluent which can help to save cost that involves in ETP management.

A recent study has shown that sustainable product has good quality in comparison overall conventional product. As example, for aggressive washes, where many of processes are involved, the more number of processes the more number of rejections will be, also falling of tearing strength is another concern.

The growing business of denim is becoming a threat to the environment and also unhygienic to the worker involved directly to washing. The uses of huge amount of water, hazardous chemicals and higher energy consumption are the key factors to deteriorate the condition of the environment. 

According to the prospect of reducing consumption of water, chemicals & energy and also to reduce impact of worker sustainability in denim washing has come to light in the world trend. Many of the big retailers are selling sustainable denim in the world market which is becoming more popular in EU and US market gradually.

To define sustainability we can say that this is the capability to maintain a certain process or state indefinitely. Sustainability has been expressed as meeting the need of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet human needs. 

Using the minimal resources for denim production like changing procedures or reducing one or two steps and even by using alternative chemicals & new technology are commonly treated as sustainability in denim washing. Eventually, cost of denim production may reduce if less water and bio degradable chemicals are used which is only possible through sustainable concept.

 Reason of seeking sustainability:

Global Aspects: Across the world 7.2 Billion Peoples in 2017 whereas 9 Billion people will be in 2050 or closer to that. To feed, give clothing and providing shelter for everyone does not come free. Everything has a cost. This cost to be brought by the environment.

According to total textile exchange, about 20% of industrial fresh water pollution comes from textile treatment and dyeing.

About 2700 liter of fresh water is used to make one cotton T-shirt. About 920 gallons water is used to make one jeans. Other textile products also consume huge amounts of energy and water in processing and finishing.

1 trillion kwh used by the global textile industry. This equals approximate 10% of global carbon impact.

Aspects of Bangladesh: It is estimated that in Bangladesh approximately 719 wet processing facilities including knit fabric dyeing and denim washing factories consume around 750 billion litres of groundwater annually. While in Bangladesh there are factories which are top of class, there are also indications of water consumption levels of 300 litres per kg of fabric – a figure which is approximately 3 times higher than the global average. 

High water consumption also comes with relatively high energy consumption, heating more water than strictly required in the dyeing process. This contributes to a set of water-related challenges, Bangladesh is also facing severe energy shortages. The country produces only about ¾ of its energy needs, requiring many fabric and garment manufacturers to generate their own. 

According to a study conducted by BUET (Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology) that was published in The Dailystar the Textile Industries would be dumping 20,300 crore liters of untreated wastewater into the countries water bodies every year from 2021 if the present situation goin on. Thus the pollution would be threatening fisheries, biodiversity and groundwater. 

The untreated effluents could instigate quick changes in the aquatic ecosystems and may affect the life of fisheries. The water bodies might face increase of temperature due to warm wastewater that discharges into them and cause to high impact on flora and fauna. Dhaka, Narayanganj and Gazipur belt of textile industries are major deliver of the wastewater to the nearly waterbodies. Referring to another study, it said textile industries near the Shitalakkhya river discharge their untreated dye with heavy metals into the river. 

To meet the export value $50 billion by 2021 the manufacturers are intended to enlarge their business volume that eventually impacts on high discharge of wastewater.According to the Bangladesh Environment Conservation Act, 1995 the textile dyeing and washing industries are in "Red Category Industry", that are treated as most polluting. 

There is stringent rule by the Department of Environment that ETP is must to run any wet processing facility but many of the factories are yet to install the waste water treatment plant as running the ETP is expensive, approximately tk 20-35 crore needs to install an ETP plant. Both chemical and biological ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) is mandatory and it has to be functional as well.

With this realization of need to have sustainable products and looking at huge impact of  textile industry on the environment – of which denim is the vital portion – the natural way forward is only devising new products, ways and processes which can help in reducing the environmental footprint of textiles. 

The main three pillars of the concept of Sustainable Denim Production are -

• Environmental
• Social
• Economical

Taking this in consideration there are some methods, processes and technology are being applied to reduce the impact and to make sustainable Denim product. Some of them are as follows:

• Single bath method
• Ensure front loading machines that consume less whater
• Equip laundry with modern washing machinery that enables to wash denim at low M:L ratio
• Use water meter to 100% washing machine
• Use EIM which is powered by Jeanologia
• Ozone Fading
• Use of green chemical
• Ice blasting
• Use of laser
• Install functional chemical and biological ETP

You May Also like:

• Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) | Sustainable Cotton Production Standard
• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) | Certification Steps and Requirements
• Organic Content Standard (OCS) Certification | OCS 100 Standard
• EcoVero™ Fiber The Alternative to Viscose is a Sustainable Innovation 
• Nano Bubble Technology Reduces 95% Water in Denim Washing
• Basic Procedures of Denim Fabric Srinkage and Shade Checking
• Different Types of Enzymes That are Used in Denim Washing
• Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Washing
• Denim Washing | Different Types of Denim Washing 

Sustainable Denim Washing | Reason Behind Seeking Sustainable Denim Production

No comments

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Denim is one of the most polluting industries among all textile departments. Now a day’s, technologists are continuously trying to invent environmental and production friendly manufacturing facilities to avoid traditional procedures. Despite the ecological facts are involved this particular industry is growing rapidly than any other. Behind the giant denim industry the big issues are the huge quantity of secondhand trash, unusable stock, denim waste, high-consumption of water, hazardous chemicals and energy.

Denim is a dynamic, featuring field of fashion where the achievements of the science and new features of lifestyle are assumed in new styles. To understand the modern phenomenon of denim topic has to be accessed from different aspects. This field of fashion is rapidly growing business, thus continuous monitoring of the market is a must for all the professionals. 

Denim is also one of the biggest employers in the world. It is giving work to a lots of people: stakeholders in the textile, garment and fashion industry including small and medium enterprises and large companies, designers and creative personnel of leading global fashion houses and emerging brands, actors of the retail sector as well as there are huge interest of machinery makers, workers and technologists of the weaving mill and so on.

There is an effective cost saving aspect of sustainable denim project. In sustainability the uses of chemical and water are reduced along with energy reduction which is cost effective. For less chemical the extra cost is reducing and on the other hand less water gives less effluent which can help to save cost that involves in ETP management.

A recent study has shown that sustainable product has good quality in comparison overall conventional product. As example, for aggressive washes, where many of processes are involved, the more number of processes the more number of rejections will be, also falling of tearing strength is another concern.

The growing business of denim is becoming a threat to the environment and also unhygienic to the worker involved directly to washing. The uses of huge amount of water, hazardous chemicals and higher energy consumption are the key factors to deteriorate the condition of the environment. 

According to the prospect of reducing consumption of water, chemicals & energy and also to reduce impact of worker sustainability in denim washing has come to light in the world trend. Many of the big retailers are selling sustainable denim in the world market which is becoming more popular in EU and US market gradually.

To define sustainability we can say that this is the capability to maintain a certain process or state indefinitely. Sustainability has been expressed as meeting the need of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet human needs. 

Using the minimal resources for denim production like changing procedures or reducing one or two steps and even by using alternative chemicals & new technology are commonly treated as sustainability in denim washing. Eventually, cost of denim production may reduce if less water and bio degradable chemicals are used which is only possible through sustainable concept.

 Reason of seeking sustainability:

Global Aspects: Across the world 7.2 Billion Peoples in 2017 whereas 9 Billion people will be in 2050 or closer to that. To feed, give clothing and providing shelter for everyone does not come free. Everything has a cost. This cost to be brought by the environment.

According to total textile exchange, about 20% of industrial fresh water pollution comes from textile treatment and dyeing.

About 2700 liter of fresh water is used to make one cotton T-shirt. About 920 gallons water is used to make one jeans. Other textile products also consume huge amounts of energy and water in processing and finishing.

1 trillion kwh used by the global textile industry. This equals approximate 10% of global carbon impact.

Aspects of Bangladesh: It is estimated that in Bangladesh approximately 719 wet processing facilities including knit fabric dyeing and denim washing factories consume around 750 billion litres of groundwater annually. While in Bangladesh there are factories which are top of class, there are also indications of water consumption levels of 300 litres per kg of fabric – a figure which is approximately 3 times higher than the global average. 

High water consumption also comes with relatively high energy consumption, heating more water than strictly required in the dyeing process. This contributes to a set of water-related challenges, Bangladesh is also facing severe energy shortages. The country produces only about ¾ of its energy needs, requiring many fabric and garment manufacturers to generate their own. 

According to a study conducted by BUET (Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology) that was published in The Dailystar the Textile Industries would be dumping 20,300 crore liters of untreated wastewater into the countries water bodies every year from 2021 if the present situation goin on. Thus the pollution would be threatening fisheries, biodiversity and groundwater. 

The untreated effluents could instigate quick changes in the aquatic ecosystems and may affect the life of fisheries. The water bodies might face increase of temperature due to warm wastewater that discharges into them and cause to high impact on flora and fauna. Dhaka, Narayanganj and Gazipur belt of textile industries are major deliver of the wastewater to the nearly waterbodies. Referring to another study, it said textile industries near the Shitalakkhya river discharge their untreated dye with heavy metals into the river. 

To meet the export value $50 billion by 2021 the manufacturers are intended to enlarge their business volume that eventually impacts on high discharge of wastewater.According to the Bangladesh Environment Conservation Act, 1995 the textile dyeing and washing industries are in "Red Category Industry", that are treated as most polluting. 

There is stringent rule by the Department of Environment that ETP is must to run any wet processing facility but many of the factories are yet to install the waste water treatment plant as running the ETP is expensive, approximately tk 20-35 crore needs to install an ETP plant. Both chemical and biological ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) is mandatory and it has to be functional as well.

With this realization of need to have sustainable products and looking at huge impact of  textile industry on the environment – of which denim is the vital portion – the natural way forward is only devising new products, ways and processes which can help in reducing the environmental footprint of textiles. 

The main three pillars of the concept of Sustainable Denim Production are -

• Environmental
• Social
• Economical

Taking this in consideration there are some methods, processes and technology are being applied to reduce the impact and to make sustainable Denim product. Some of them are as follows:

• Single bath method
• Ensure front loading machines that consume less whater
• Equip laundry with modern washing machinery that enables to wash denim at low M:L ratio
• Use water meter to 100% washing machine
• Use EIM which is powered by Jeanologia
• Ozone Fading
• Use of green chemical
• Ice blasting
• Use of laser
• Install functional chemical and biological ETP

You May Also like:

• Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) | Sustainable Cotton Production Standard
• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) | Certification Steps and Requirements
• Organic Content Standard (OCS) Certification | OCS 100 Standard
• EcoVero™ Fiber The Alternative to Viscose is a Sustainable Innovation 
• Nano Bubble Technology Reduces 95% Water in Denim Washing
• Basic Procedures of Denim Fabric Srinkage and Shade Checking
• Different Types of Enzymes That are Used in Denim Washing
• Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Washing
• Denim Washing | Different Types of Denim Washing 

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Bangladesh Denim Expo - 10th Edition in May, 2019

Bangladesh Denim Expo is doing outstanding in terms of showcases of denim innovations and new editions of denim in Bangladesh every Year. Each year it is organized twice by the Managing Director of Denim Expert Ltd. Mr. Mostafiz Uddin, who is very passionate to enhance and accelerate the denim trade in Bangladesh. His utmost effort to make the event successful is really praiseworthy. Bangladesh Denim Expo has become a big news for the local and internal media in the business category.

Bangladesh is the second largest garment exporter and number one denim or jeans exporter to EU market. According to a report published last year that at least one person among eight Americans wear Bangladeshi jeans. Apparently, this sector has been grown very well in Bangladesh. More than 30 denim mills have been established in Bangladesh to support and reduce the demand of exported denim fabric from other countries. 

Approximately, every year about 90 million pieces of denims are being produced and exported across the world from Bangladesh. Keeping in mind the high level of customer demand Bangladeshi entrepreneurs are highly interested to establish denim manufacturing facility that can boost the market share of denim export in the world.

This year the exhibition is being organized as Bangladesh Denim Expo, 10th Edition on 2-3 May, 2019. As a non-profit exercise, the Expo’s objective is to showcase Bangladesh’s growth potential in the denim industry. To strengthen the social and economic growth of Bangladesh people need to live out of poverty where denim production in Bangladesh plays a vital role as more than 70% workforce for it are women from the countryside. 

Most of the manufacturing facilities of Denim are established outskirt of Dhaka, Gazipur N.ganj and Chattagram city, so it's easy for both the buyers and manufacturers to communicate and grow their business relationship through visiting the premises. 

While delivering strong commercial opportunities, the Bangladesh Denim Expo operates from a platform of responsibility. The show has the spirit of a collective, with  like-minded denim players from around the world bringing to life a new vision.

Bangladesh became the first choice of low to high quality denim production by the customers due to the original worn in look with good quality sewing. 

Current world is seeking the most effective way to gain sustainable denim platform and Bangladesh received the main focus for the same. Sustainability in denim production is a common goal to both customers and manufacturers to ensure a green world in the future. Innovations and methods that are going to be successful to make the denim sustainable are one of the main topic of discussion part that runs in each show of Denim Expo.

Like Exhibitors, some wash experts from both local and abroad share their expertise views and knowledge's in the panel discussion part of Denim Expo. It becomes a very good gathering point for the local and foreign employees to meet and get ideas. 

It is a one roof platform for the denim fabric and garment manufacturers. People, who are engaged in denim are highly interested to this event and waited every year to gather and meet with their ex colleagues and well wishers. Denim Fabric mills from local and abroad participate with high interest and get responses from respective customers. 

Event Summary:

•     Event : Bangladesh Denim Expo
•     Edition: 10th
•     Location: Dhaka, Bangladesh
•     Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB)
•     Date: 2-3 May, 2019
•     Time: 10am - 7pm
•     Expected number Of Exhibitors: 60-80
•     Visitors: Business and Trade Visitors related to Denim
•     Official Web: http://www.bangladeshdenimexpo.com

You May Also Like:

• 20th Textech Bangladesh 2019 International Expo
• 16th Dhaka International Yarn and Fabric Show 2019
• International Garments and Textile Machinery Exhibition in Bangladesh 2019

Bangladesh Denim Expo - 10th Edition in May, 2019

No comments

Advertisements

Bangladesh Denim Expo is doing outstanding in terms of showcases of denim innovations and new editions of denim in Bangladesh every Year. Each year it is organized twice by the Managing Director of Denim Expert Ltd. Mr. Mostafiz Uddin, who is very passionate to enhance and accelerate the denim trade in Bangladesh. His utmost effort to make the event successful is really praiseworthy. Bangladesh Denim Expo has become a big news for the local and internal media in the business category.

Bangladesh is the second largest garment exporter and number one denim or jeans exporter to EU market. According to a report published last year that at least one person among eight Americans wear Bangladeshi jeans. Apparently, this sector has been grown very well in Bangladesh. More than 30 denim mills have been established in Bangladesh to support and reduce the demand of exported denim fabric from other countries. 

Approximately, every year about 90 million pieces of denims are being produced and exported across the world from Bangladesh. Keeping in mind the high level of customer demand Bangladeshi entrepreneurs are highly interested to establish denim manufacturing facility that can boost the market share of denim export in the world.

This year the exhibition is being organized as Bangladesh Denim Expo, 10th Edition on 2-3 May, 2019. As a non-profit exercise, the Expo’s objective is to showcase Bangladesh’s growth potential in the denim industry. To strengthen the social and economic growth of Bangladesh people need to live out of poverty where denim production in Bangladesh plays a vital role as more than 70% workforce for it are women from the countryside. 

Most of the manufacturing facilities of Denim are established outskirt of Dhaka, Gazipur N.ganj and Chattagram city, so it's easy for both the buyers and manufacturers to communicate and grow their business relationship through visiting the premises. 

While delivering strong commercial opportunities, the Bangladesh Denim Expo operates from a platform of responsibility. The show has the spirit of a collective, with  like-minded denim players from around the world bringing to life a new vision.

Bangladesh became the first choice of low to high quality denim production by the customers due to the original worn in look with good quality sewing. 

Current world is seeking the most effective way to gain sustainable denim platform and Bangladesh received the main focus for the same. Sustainability in denim production is a common goal to both customers and manufacturers to ensure a green world in the future. Innovations and methods that are going to be successful to make the denim sustainable are one of the main topic of discussion part that runs in each show of Denim Expo.

Like Exhibitors, some wash experts from both local and abroad share their expertise views and knowledge's in the panel discussion part of Denim Expo. It becomes a very good gathering point for the local and foreign employees to meet and get ideas. 

It is a one roof platform for the denim fabric and garment manufacturers. People, who are engaged in denim are highly interested to this event and waited every year to gather and meet with their ex colleagues and well wishers. Denim Fabric mills from local and abroad participate with high interest and get responses from respective customers. 

Event Summary:

•     Event : Bangladesh Denim Expo
•     Edition: 10th
•     Location: Dhaka, Bangladesh
•     Venue: International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB)
•     Date: 2-3 May, 2019
•     Time: 10am - 7pm
•     Expected number Of Exhibitors: 60-80
•     Visitors: Business and Trade Visitors related to Denim
•     Official Web: http://www.bangladeshdenimexpo.com

You May Also Like:

• 20th Textech Bangladesh 2019 International Expo
• 16th Dhaka International Yarn and Fabric Show 2019
• International Garments and Textile Machinery Exhibition in Bangladesh 2019

Advertisements

Nano Bubble Technology Reduces 95% Water in Denim Washing

Denim is considered the most interested field in the glob for creating new fashion. Researchers are developing new technology considering sustainability that leads to invent processes that can go through environmental friendly way.

Nano Bubble Technology is the new one which is widely known as e-flow system was invented and patented by Jeanologia, a Spanish company in the year 2012 and now it is coming into force in industrial use for denim washing. In fact it is the sustainable finishing process for textile that transfers chemicals on to garments made of any fabric. Water, which is the main career of any finishing process and finally discharges into environment as waste but in e-flow system air from the atmosphere is transformed into the nano bubbles where water and correct amount of chemical products naturally distribute themselves forming the nano bubble skin. Therefore, they can be used as the carriers of the chemicals and transmit them homogeneously onto the garment.

This technology can contribute to a considerable number of finishing effects with the best level of quality, a maximum less amount of water and there is zero discharge of the process.

Methodology:

Air from the atmosphere is taken into an electro-flow reactor and subjected to an electro-mechanical shock that creates nano bubbles and a flow of wet air.

Then the nano bubbles are transported into a rotating tumbler containing the denim samples and when it comes into contact with them produces a soft and natural hand feel. The samples are then dried even in the same tumble machine it is possible to dry up. Since denims are indigo dyed where unfix dyes are available on the surface of the fabric therefore cross staining may happen with this technology which can be eliminated through using a little bit anti cross staining agent or can treat with dry ozonator.

The e-flow process breaks up the indigo molecules from the surface of the denim and then the process produces a pre-shrinkage of the fabric, that will contribute to avoid high shrinkage during home laundry. It also gives a softer hand feel and so the garments are comfortable to wear and with an improvement in color fastness to rubbing properties.

Five benefits of the process:

• It reduces 95% water and 40% energy consumption.
• Elimination of waste water and treated chemical to the environment.
• Superb hand feel can be achieved
• High quality garments are treated which are being affected by conventional wash process.
• The brightness and luster are increased

Nano Bubble Technology Reduces 95% Water in Denim Washing

No comments

Advertisements

Denim is considered the most interested field in the glob for creating new fashion. Researchers are developing new technology considering sustainability that leads to invent processes that can go through environmental friendly way.

Nano Bubble Technology is the new one which is widely known as e-flow system was invented and patented by Jeanologia, a Spanish company in the year 2012 and now it is coming into force in industrial use for denim washing. In fact it is the sustainable finishing process for textile that transfers chemicals on to garments made of any fabric. Water, which is the main career of any finishing process and finally discharges into environment as waste but in e-flow system air from the atmosphere is transformed into the nano bubbles where water and correct amount of chemical products naturally distribute themselves forming the nano bubble skin. Therefore, they can be used as the carriers of the chemicals and transmit them homogeneously onto the garment.

This technology can contribute to a considerable number of finishing effects with the best level of quality, a maximum less amount of water and there is zero discharge of the process.

Methodology:

Air from the atmosphere is taken into an electro-flow reactor and subjected to an electro-mechanical shock that creates nano bubbles and a flow of wet air.

Then the nano bubbles are transported into a rotating tumbler containing the denim samples and when it comes into contact with them produces a soft and natural hand feel. The samples are then dried even in the same tumble machine it is possible to dry up. Since denims are indigo dyed where unfix dyes are available on the surface of the fabric therefore cross staining may happen with this technology which can be eliminated through using a little bit anti cross staining agent or can treat with dry ozonator.

The e-flow process breaks up the indigo molecules from the surface of the denim and then the process produces a pre-shrinkage of the fabric, that will contribute to avoid high shrinkage during home laundry. It also gives a softer hand feel and so the garments are comfortable to wear and with an improvement in color fastness to rubbing properties.

Five benefits of the process:

• It reduces 95% water and 40% energy consumption.
• Elimination of waste water and treated chemical to the environment.
• Superb hand feel can be achieved
• High quality garments are treated which are being affected by conventional wash process.
• The brightness and luster are increased

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Classification of Denim Fabric | Different Types of Denim Fabric

 Article is Written By
Bidhan Sarker
Wash Technician
Kiabi International Supply Services Ltd, BD liaison office.
Contact:bdn.srkr@gmail.com

Denim is one of the widely used and durable fabric in textile industry. Typically, Denim is a twill fabric where warp yarns are dyed with Indigo/Sulphur and weft yarns are undyed which creates Blue top & white back appearance. This is the general specification of denim. Due to the expansion of denim industry in recent years and demand of denims for fashion which are made in different combinations and it obviously appears with different innovations.

So, considering that point of view denims can be classified in different categories which illustrates the versatility and wide range of denim developments. There are some basic type of denims are described briefly as below-

According to the fabric weight: 

 Fabric weight per unit area expresses the thickness and the compactness of the fabric which defines the end use. It can be classified into 3 groups.

1)    Light weight- weight around 4.5Oz-6Oz. Using for denim shirts/top items
2)    Medium weight- Weight range around 7Oz-10Oz. Using for kids bottom items
3)    Heavy weight- weight range around 11Oz-More. Using for ladies/men bottom items.

According to the weave Construction & mechanism:

Mostly denims are twill weave. But now there are some variations in terms of weave that are given as below.

2/1twill: it seems more like plane in appearance. Tapered shedding mechanism is used in this production. 

 

Sateen: for smooth surface and silky appearance.Tapered shedding mechanism is used in this production 

 

3/1twill: it seems more prominent diagonal lines.Tapered shedding mechanism is used in this production.

 

Fake knit: basically, its sateen-based twill which gives like Fleece appearance on the back side. Dobby shedding mechanism are used in the production.

 

Broken: Broken twill construction is applied on this and after wash appearance seems flatter. Tapered & Dobby both shedding mechanism can be used in this production.

 

Fancy: different types of dobby/jacquard mechanisms are applied in the production.

 

 

 

 

 

 

According to the dyeing process: 

Indigo is the main Dye for denim. But to make more variations Indigo & Sulpher dyes are combined in different ways. So based on that it can be classified as following-

1.    Indigo Blue denim (Only Indigo)
2.    Blue-Black denim (Sulphur top + Indigo Bottom or Indigo top + Sulphur bottom)
3.    Grey denim (low Sulphur concentration + Vat dye)
4.    Black Denim (only Sulphur)

According to the Finishing processes & end uses:

Considering the end use or special criteria it can be classified as following-

1.    Regular denim- regular 100% cotton, cotton poly denim with basic Finishing which ensure the dimensional stability of the fabric during washing.

2.    Selvedge denim- To Keep fabric Selvedge untwisted and used the area as styling during weaving width wise selvedge is made in different way but strong. This is basically done in weaving stage.

3.    Stretch denim- Considering comfort in wearing elastane are using in weaving. Those denims are known as stretch/comfort denim. Those types of denim Stentering& Compacting is very important to keep the Stretch & fabric width consistent

4.    Coated denim: Normally special types of coating consisting chemical mixtures are applied on the surface of the fabric to give a coated look. Those types of denims are used in Raw look garments manufacturing. /styling. 

5.    Water repellent Denim: To make the Fabric water repellent wax type coating are given on the fabric during finishing. This type of fabric is used for Jacket/some special biker jeans.

There are some other varieties like Slab Denim, Cross slab Denim, etc. But those are the variations coming because of the yarn count variations. Those can be achieved in any types. So, its not major classifications.

Classification of Denim Fabric | Different Types of Denim Fabric

No comments

Advertisements

 Article is Written By
Bidhan Sarker
Wash Technician
Kiabi International Supply Services Ltd, BD liaison office.
Contact:bdn.srkr@gmail.com

Denim is one of the widely used and durable fabric in textile industry. Typically, Denim is a twill fabric where warp yarns are dyed with Indigo/Sulphur and weft yarns are undyed which creates Blue top & white back appearance. This is the general specification of denim. Due to the expansion of denim industry in recent years and demand of denims for fashion which are made in different combinations and it obviously appears with different innovations.

So, considering that point of view denims can be classified in different categories which illustrates the versatility and wide range of denim developments. There are some basic type of denims are described briefly as below-

According to the fabric weight: 

 Fabric weight per unit area expresses the thickness and the compactness of the fabric which defines the end use. It can be classified into 3 groups.

1)    Light weight- weight around 4.5Oz-6Oz. Using for denim shirts/top items
2)    Medium weight- Weight range around 7Oz-10Oz. Using for kids bottom items
3)    Heavy weight- weight range around 11Oz-More. Using for ladies/men bottom items.

According to the weave Construction & mechanism:

Mostly denims are twill weave. But now there are some variations in terms of weave that are given as below.

2/1twill: it seems more like plane in appearance. Tapered shedding mechanism is used in this production. 

 

Sateen: for smooth surface and silky appearance.Tapered shedding mechanism is used in this production 

 

3/1twill: it seems more prominent diagonal lines.Tapered shedding mechanism is used in this production.

 

Fake knit: basically, its sateen-based twill which gives like Fleece appearance on the back side. Dobby shedding mechanism are used in the production.

 

Broken: Broken twill construction is applied on this and after wash appearance seems flatter. Tapered & Dobby both shedding mechanism can be used in this production.

 

Fancy: different types of dobby/jacquard mechanisms are applied in the production.

 

 

 

 

 

 

According to the dyeing process: 

Indigo is the main Dye for denim. But to make more variations Indigo & Sulpher dyes are combined in different ways. So based on that it can be classified as following-

1.    Indigo Blue denim (Only Indigo)
2.    Blue-Black denim (Sulphur top + Indigo Bottom or Indigo top + Sulphur bottom)
3.    Grey denim (low Sulphur concentration + Vat dye)
4.    Black Denim (only Sulphur)

According to the Finishing processes & end uses:

Considering the end use or special criteria it can be classified as following-

1.    Regular denim- regular 100% cotton, cotton poly denim with basic Finishing which ensure the dimensional stability of the fabric during washing.

2.    Selvedge denim- To Keep fabric Selvedge untwisted and used the area as styling during weaving width wise selvedge is made in different way but strong. This is basically done in weaving stage.

3.    Stretch denim- Considering comfort in wearing elastane are using in weaving. Those denims are known as stretch/comfort denim. Those types of denim Stentering& Compacting is very important to keep the Stretch & fabric width consistent

4.    Coated denim: Normally special types of coating consisting chemical mixtures are applied on the surface of the fabric to give a coated look. Those types of denims are used in Raw look garments manufacturing. /styling. 

5.    Water repellent Denim: To make the Fabric water repellent wax type coating are given on the fabric during finishing. This type of fabric is used for Jacket/some special biker jeans.

There are some other varieties like Slab Denim, Cross slab Denim, etc. But those are the variations coming because of the yarn count variations. Those can be achieved in any types. So, its not major classifications.

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Basic Procedures of Denim Fabric Srinkage and Shade Checking

Article is Written By

Bidhan Sarker

Wash Technician

Kiabi International Supply Services Ltd, BD liaison office.

Contact:bdn.srkr@gmail.com

Denim Fabrics are weaved & Finished batch wise and finally delivered in rolls. Moreover, color fading variation during washing is very common in Denim production. So, it’s very important that same category or same range denims are cut, sew and wash together to keep the consistency along with the whole production. As well as Similar shrinkage group maintenance is also important to keep the garments measurements are in acceptable range.

To check and maintain all those issues Shrinkage & Blanket shade grouping is very important steps in Denim industry.Let’s see those basic procedure and checking points.

All Together Blanket: 

This is the primary checking and segregation stage.

•   Swatch size should be 12” in length and 8” in width
•   Need to attaché back side supporting fabric
•   Same as the wash target, 1 recipe. No segregation.
•   Should apply dry process if Standard have and have to achieve the color from washing.
•   2sets need to wash. 1 for segregation and another for the reference copy.
•   After washing shade segregation are done by marking shade number to keep same family shades

Group Blanket:

 This is the Second checking and segregation stage where shade wise recipe variation is set off.

• Swatch size should be 8”X8”
• According to the shade segregation, 4 sets of same (same cut piece arrangement) blankets where 2 sets are washed, and 2 sets are kept unwashed
• If the unwashed shade variations are too high, then closer shades are sewing together and wash separately to get maximum required shades.
• Cross check with the standard for the maximum shade consistency in a same group
• After checking and marking, proceed for the color continuity card 

Color Continuity Card:  

This is the final documentation and representation stage to check the whole consignment shades at a glance

• After washing all together blanket swatches they should be segregated for shade and used to make color continuity card
• Washed swatch size should be 6” in length and 7” in width. Before wash swatch size should be 6” in length and 3.5” in width. [Buyer requirement wise size might be changed]
• Swatches should be arranged in the color continuity card according to the shade family and lighter-darker.
• Shade wise fabric details are mentioned in the card so that it can be easily track.

Shrinkage Test Process: -

•  Every roll must be tested for shrinkage.
•  Shrinkage recorded in shrinkage test report
•  Need to check result against with supplier FDS (Fabric Data Sheet)
• One shrinkage group must not exceed 3% variations lengthwise/width wise. In case of warp or weft shrinkage exceedes 3%, sub grouping is necessary as illustrated below.
• For each shrinkage group need to make a size set and if required need to revise patterns.

Example: - Warp range %- 1,2,3,4,5,6

                   Weft range % :3, 4, 5

Shrinkage group	Warp range	Weft range
1	1, 2, 3,	3, 4, 5
2	4, 5, 6	3, 4, 5

Basic Procedures of Denim Fabric Srinkage and Shade Checking

No comments

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Article is Written By

Bidhan Sarker

Wash Technician

Kiabi International Supply Services Ltd, BD liaison office.

Contact:bdn.srkr@gmail.com

Denim Fabrics are weaved & Finished batch wise and finally delivered in rolls. Moreover, color fading variation during washing is very common in Denim production. So, it’s very important that same category or same range denims are cut, sew and wash together to keep the consistency along with the whole production. As well as Similar shrinkage group maintenance is also important to keep the garments measurements are in acceptable range.

To check and maintain all those issues Shrinkage & Blanket shade grouping is very important steps in Denim industry.Let’s see those basic procedure and checking points.

All Together Blanket: 

This is the primary checking and segregation stage.

•   Swatch size should be 12” in length and 8” in width
•   Need to attaché back side supporting fabric
•   Same as the wash target, 1 recipe. No segregation.
•   Should apply dry process if Standard have and have to achieve the color from washing.
•   2sets need to wash. 1 for segregation and another for the reference copy.
•   After washing shade segregation are done by marking shade number to keep same family shades

Group Blanket:

 This is the Second checking and segregation stage where shade wise recipe variation is set off.

• Swatch size should be 8”X8”
• According to the shade segregation, 4 sets of same (same cut piece arrangement) blankets where 2 sets are washed, and 2 sets are kept unwashed
• If the unwashed shade variations are too high, then closer shades are sewing together and wash separately to get maximum required shades.
• Cross check with the standard for the maximum shade consistency in a same group
• After checking and marking, proceed for the color continuity card 

Color Continuity Card:  

This is the final documentation and representation stage to check the whole consignment shades at a glance

• After washing all together blanket swatches they should be segregated for shade and used to make color continuity card
• Washed swatch size should be 6” in length and 7” in width. Before wash swatch size should be 6” in length and 3.5” in width. [Buyer requirement wise size might be changed]
• Swatches should be arranged in the color continuity card according to the shade family and lighter-darker.
• Shade wise fabric details are mentioned in the card so that it can be easily track.

Shrinkage Test Process: -

•  Every roll must be tested for shrinkage.
•  Shrinkage recorded in shrinkage test report
•  Need to check result against with supplier FDS (Fabric Data Sheet)
• One shrinkage group must not exceed 3% variations lengthwise/width wise. In case of warp or weft shrinkage exceedes 3%, sub grouping is necessary as illustrated below.
• For each shrinkage group need to make a size set and if required need to revise patterns.

Example: - Warp range %- 1,2,3,4,5,6

                   Weft range % :3, 4, 5

Shrinkage group	Warp range	Weft range
1	1, 2, 3,	3, 4, 5
2	4, 5, 6	3, 4, 5

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Denim Fabric | Deifference Between Denim and Jeans | Blue Jeans

Denim is a durable, tightly woven, strong fabric in 3/1 or 2/1 twill weave with dyed warp yarns and white weft or filling yarns. Traditionally denim fabrics are dyed with indigo dyes but now a days various colorful denims are produced. Rope dyeing and Slasher dyeing is available for warp yarn dyeing. The yarns have a very strong twist to make them more durable, but this also affects the denim's color. The yarns are twisted so tightly that indigo dye usually colors only the surface, leaving the yarns center white. The blue strands become the threads that shown on the outside of your denim and the white are the ones that make the inside of your denim look white. This produces the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric. The diagonal line goes right at 45 degrees angle. Denim has been used in USA for making blue jeans since late 1800s. The word "denim" comes from the name of a fabric that was first made in the city of Nîmes, France.  It was originally called serge de Nîmes but the name was soon shortened to "denim."

Denim fabrics are widely used for making blue jeans. In fact, there is not any fabric available as jean or jeans in world trade market as I know. Sometimes I saw jean is one kind of twill fabric where both yarns are to be dyed or 2/1 Right Hand Twill. But practically I never saw any fabric as jeans used by any brand. Indeed, Jeans is one kind of fashion where denim fabrics are used as well as Dungaree is a fabric also used for making jeans. Denim is much popular for blue jeans. In 1873 denim was used for jeans and invented by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss. Jeans was first designed for workers cloth for high longevity, became popular among teenagers. 

Others Colorful Jeans Pant

Denim Fabric | Deifference Between Denim and Jeans | Blue Jeans

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Denim is a durable, tightly woven, strong fabric in 3/1 or 2/1 twill weave with dyed warp yarns and white weft or filling yarns. Traditionally denim fabrics are dyed with indigo dyes but now a days various colorful denims are produced. Rope dyeing and Slasher dyeing is available for warp yarn dyeing. The yarns have a very strong twist to make them more durable, but this also affects the denim's color. The yarns are twisted so tightly that indigo dye usually colors only the surface, leaving the yarns center white. The blue strands become the threads that shown on the outside of your denim and the white are the ones that make the inside of your denim look white. This produces the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric. The diagonal line goes right at 45 degrees angle. Denim has been used in USA for making blue jeans since late 1800s. The word "denim" comes from the name of a fabric that was first made in the city of Nîmes, France.  It was originally called serge de Nîmes but the name was soon shortened to "denim."

Denim fabrics are widely used for making blue jeans. In fact, there is not any fabric available as jean or jeans in world trade market as I know. Sometimes I saw jean is one kind of twill fabric where both yarns are to be dyed or 2/1 Right Hand Twill. But practically I never saw any fabric as jeans used by any brand. Indeed, Jeans is one kind of fashion where denim fabrics are used as well as Dungaree is a fabric also used for making jeans. Denim is much popular for blue jeans. In 1873 denim was used for jeans and invented by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss. Jeans was first designed for workers cloth for high longevity, became popular among teenagers. 

Others Colorful Jeans Pant

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Denim Washing | Different Types of Denim Washing

 

In today's trend Denim has achieved much preference to teenagers as well as baby to adult as blue jeans. According to the fashionable denim garments, subjected to versatile washing techniques to obtain a worn, vintage look with various effects like as hand sand, whiskers, 3D, Nicking, Destroy etc. To produce a fading effect is the main object of denim washing without affecting the main body fabrics and patchiness, crinkles, seam puckering, hairiness, de-pilling, softened-hand feel, stabilized dimensions etc.

Denim washing involves some consecutive processes like as below-

• Pretreatment ( De-sizing, Rinsing, Scouring etc)
• Basic Washing (Enzyme, Stone, Bleach, Sand Blast, Acid, Garment or Rinse)
• Cleaning process
• Bleaching
• Tinting (Dyeing)
• Softening Process

Enzyme Washing
Basically denim washing directly involves to enzymatic treatments to obtain old, faded as well as vintage look of the garments. This is a bio-catalytic method wherein an ultra-soft handle effect can be produced on denim. The hydrolytic effect of enzymes causes the loss of surface fiber or projecting fiber, which improves surface smoothness and softness of the fabric. Enzyme reduces colors from the surface of the body and the effects of fading depends on the timing and availability of enzyme in the bath.

Stone Washing
This method is most common and is used to give denim an 'old-look'. Volcanic Pumice stone is one of the most important components used to abrade the surface of the fabric to obtain a surface pattern effect with color contrast and soft - handle. In this process, the fibers on the surface of the fabric are broken and removed and the inner white fibers of the warp yarn are gradually exposed. Natural patterns can be formed as the degree of abrasions varies in various parts of the garment.


Bleach Washing
This process is usually done without stones by using an oxidative bleaching agent like hypochlorite or peroxide bleaching. Before bleach washing enzymatic treatment of denim might be required. Sodium hypochlorite is normally used as it is cheap, convenient and quick. Other agents used are sodium percarbonate and sodium perborate.


Sand Blasting
This process is used to obtain localized abrasion effect. Usually, aluminum oxide granules are blasted onto the garment surface at a very high speed. The abrasion force rubs off the indigo-dyed fibres.

Denim Washing | Different Types of Denim Washing

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In today's trend Denim has achieved much preference to teenagers as well as baby to adult as blue jeans. According to the fashionable denim garments, subjected to versatile washing techniques to obtain a worn, vintage look with various effects like as hand sand, whiskers, 3D, Nicking, Destroy etc. To produce a fading effect is the main object of denim washing without affecting the main body fabrics and patchiness, crinkles, seam puckering, hairiness, de-pilling, softened-hand feel, stabilized dimensions etc.

Denim washing involves some consecutive processes like as below-

• Pretreatment ( De-sizing, Rinsing, Scouring etc)
• Basic Washing (Enzyme, Stone, Bleach, Sand Blast, Acid, Garment or Rinse)
• Cleaning process
• Bleaching
• Tinting (Dyeing)
• Softening Process

Enzyme Washing
Basically denim washing directly involves to enzymatic treatments to obtain old, faded as well as vintage look of the garments. This is a bio-catalytic method wherein an ultra-soft handle effect can be produced on denim. The hydrolytic effect of enzymes causes the loss of surface fiber or projecting fiber, which improves surface smoothness and softness of the fabric. Enzyme reduces colors from the surface of the body and the effects of fading depends on the timing and availability of enzyme in the bath.

Stone Washing
This method is most common and is used to give denim an 'old-look'. Volcanic Pumice stone is one of the most important components used to abrade the surface of the fabric to obtain a surface pattern effect with color contrast and soft - handle. In this process, the fibers on the surface of the fabric are broken and removed and the inner white fibers of the warp yarn are gradually exposed. Natural patterns can be formed as the degree of abrasions varies in various parts of the garment.


Bleach Washing
This process is usually done without stones by using an oxidative bleaching agent like hypochlorite or peroxide bleaching. Before bleach washing enzymatic treatment of denim might be required. Sodium hypochlorite is normally used as it is cheap, convenient and quick. Other agents used are sodium percarbonate and sodium perborate.


Sand Blasting
This process is used to obtain localized abrasion effect. Usually, aluminum oxide granules are blasted onto the garment surface at a very high speed. The abrasion force rubs off the indigo-dyed fibres.

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