Basic Procedures of Denim Fabric Srinkage and Shade Checking

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Article is Written By
Bidhan Sarker
Wash Technician
Kiabi International Supply Services Ltd, BD liaison office.
Contact:bdn.srkr@gmail.com


Denim Fabrics are weaved & Finished batch wise and finally delivered in rolls. Moreover, color fading variation during washing is very common in Denim production. So, it’s very important that same category or same range denims are cut, sew and wash together to keep the consistency along with the whole production. As well as Similar shrinkage group maintenance is also important to keep the garments measurements are in acceptable range.

To check and maintain all those issues Shrinkage & Blanket shade grouping is very important steps in Denim industry.Let’s see those basic procedure and checking points.



All Together Blanket: 

This is the primary checking and segregation stage.

  •   Swatch size should be 12” in length and 8” in width
  •   Need to attaché back side supporting fabric
  •   Same as the wash target, 1 recipe. No segregation.
  •   Should apply dry process if Standard have and have to achieve the color from washing.
  •   2sets need to wash. 1 for segregation and another for the reference copy.
  •   After washing shade segregation are done by marking shade number to keep same family shades

Group Blanket:

 This is the Second checking and segregation stage where shade wise recipe variation is set off.
  • Swatch size should be 8”X8”
  • According to the shade segregation, 4 sets of same (same cut piece arrangement) blankets where 2 sets are washed, and 2 sets are kept unwashed
  • If the unwashed shade variations are too high, then closer shades are sewing together and wash separately to get maximum required shades.
  • Cross check with the standard for the maximum shade consistency in a same group
  • After checking and marking, proceed for the color continuity card 

Color Continuity Card:  

This is the final documentation and representation stage to check the whole consignment shades at a glance
  • After washing all together blanket swatches they should be segregated for shade and used to make color continuity card
  • Washed swatch size should be 6” in length and 7” in width. Before wash swatch size should be 6” in length and 3.5” in width. [Buyer requirement wise size might be changed]
  • Swatches should be arranged in the color continuity card according to the shade family and lighter-darker.
  • Shade wise fabric details are mentioned in the card so that it can be easily track.


Shrinkage Test Process: -

  •  Every roll must be tested for shrinkage.
  •  Shrinkage recorded in shrinkage test report
  •  Need to check result against with supplier FDS (Fabric Data Sheet)
  • One shrinkage group must not exceed 3% variations lengthwise/width wise. In case of warp or weft shrinkage exceedes 3%, sub grouping is necessary as illustrated below.
  • For each shrinkage group need to make a size set and if required need to revise patterns.

Example: - Warp range %- 1,2,3,4,5,6

                   Weft range % :3, 4, 5

Shrinkage group
Warp range
Weft range
1
1, 2, 3,
3, 4, 5

2
4, 5, 6
3, 4, 5

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