Sustainable Denim Washing | Reason Behind Seeking Sustainable Denim Production

Denim is one of the most polluting industries among all textile departments. Now a day’s, technologists are continuously trying to invent environmental and production friendly manufacturing facilities to avoid traditional procedures. Despite the ecological facts are involved this particular industry is growing rapidly than any other. Behind the giant denim industry the big issues are the huge quantity of secondhand trash, unusable stock, denim waste, high-consumption of water, hazardous chemicals and energy.

Denim is a dynamic, featuring field of fashion where the achievements of the science and new features of lifestyle are assumed in new styles. To understand the modern phenomenon of denim topic has to be accessed from different aspects. This field of fashion is rapidly growing business, thus continuous monitoring of the market is a must for all the professionals. 

Denim is also one of the biggest employers in the world. It is giving work to a lots of people: stakeholders in the textile, garment and fashion industry including small and medium enterprises and large companies, designers and creative personnel of leading global fashion houses and emerging brands, actors of the retail sector as well as there are huge interest of machinery makers, workers and technologists of the weaving mill and so on.

There is an effective cost saving aspect of sustainable denim project. In sustainability the uses of chemical and water are reduced along with energy reduction which is cost effective. For less chemical the extra cost is reducing and on the other hand less water gives less effluent which can help to save cost that involves in ETP management.

A recent study has shown that sustainable product has good quality in comparison overall conventional product. As example, for aggressive washes, where many of processes are involved, the more number of processes the more number of rejections will be, also falling of tearing strength is another concern.

The growing business of denim is becoming a threat to the environment and also unhygienic to the worker involved directly to washing. The uses of huge amount of water, hazardous chemicals and higher energy consumption are the key factors to deteriorate the condition of the environment. 

According to the prospect of reducing consumption of water, chemicals & energy and also to reduce impact of worker sustainability in denim washing has come to light in the world trend. Many of the big retailers are selling sustainable denim in the world market which is becoming more popular in EU and US market gradually.

To define sustainability we can say that this is the capability to maintain a certain process or state indefinitely. Sustainability has been expressed as meeting the need of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet human needs. 

Using the minimal resources for denim production like changing procedures or reducing one or two steps and even by using alternative chemicals & new technology are commonly treated as sustainability in denim washing. Eventually, cost of denim production may reduce if less water and bio degradable chemicals are used which is only possible through sustainable concept.

 Reason of seeking sustainability:

Global Aspects: Across the world 7.2 Billion Peoples in 2017 whereas 9 Billion people will be in 2050 or closer to that. To feed, give clothing and providing shelter for everyone does not come free. Everything has a cost. This cost to be brought by the environment.

According to total textile exchange, about 20% of industrial fresh water pollution comes from textile treatment and dyeing.

About 2700 liter of fresh water is used to make one cotton T-shirt. About 920 gallons water is used to make one jeans. Other textile products also consume huge amounts of energy and water in processing and finishing.

1 trillion kwh used by the global textile industry. This equals approximate 10% of global carbon impact.

Aspects of Bangladesh: It is estimated that in Bangladesh approximately 719 wet processing facilities including knit fabric dyeing and denim washing factories consume around 750 billion litres of groundwater annually. While in Bangladesh there are factories which are top of class, there are also indications of water consumption levels of 300 litres per kg of fabric – a figure which is approximately 3 times higher than the global average. 

High water consumption also comes with relatively high energy consumption, heating more water than strictly required in the dyeing process. This contributes to a set of water-related challenges, Bangladesh is also facing severe energy shortages. The country produces only about ¾ of its energy needs, requiring many fabric and garment manufacturers to generate their own. 

According to a study conducted by BUET (Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology) that was published in The Dailystar the Textile Industries would be dumping 20,300 crore liters of untreated wastewater into the countries water bodies every year from 2021 if the present situation goin on. Thus the pollution would be threatening fisheries, biodiversity and groundwater. 

The untreated effluents could instigate quick changes in the aquatic ecosystems and may affect the life of fisheries. The water bodies might face increase of temperature due to warm wastewater that discharges into them and cause to high impact on flora and fauna. Dhaka, Narayanganj and Gazipur belt of textile industries are major deliver of the wastewater to the nearly waterbodies. Referring to another study, it said textile industries near the Shitalakkhya river discharge their untreated dye with heavy metals into the river. 

To meet the export value $50 billion by 2021 the manufacturers are intended to enlarge their business volume that eventually impacts on high discharge of wastewater.According to the Bangladesh Environment Conservation Act, 1995 the textile dyeing and washing industries are in "Red Category Industry", that are treated as most polluting. 

There is stringent rule by the Department of Environment that ETP is must to run any wet processing facility but many of the factories are yet to install the waste water treatment plant as running the ETP is expensive, approximately tk 20-35 crore needs to install an ETP plant. Both chemical and biological ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) is mandatory and it has to be functional as well.

With this realization of need to have sustainable products and looking at huge impact of  textile industry on the environment – of which denim is the vital portion – the natural way forward is only devising new products, ways and processes which can help in reducing the environmental footprint of textiles. 

The main three pillars of the concept of Sustainable Denim Production are -

• Environmental
• Social
• Economical

Taking this in consideration there are some methods, processes and technology are being applied to reduce the impact and to make sustainable Denim product. Some of them are as follows:

• Single bath method
• Ensure front loading machines that consume less whater
• Equip laundry with modern washing machinery that enables to wash denim at low M:L ratio
• Use water meter to 100% washing machine
• Use EIM which is powered by Jeanologia
• Ozone Fading
• Use of green chemical
• Ice blasting
• Use of laser
• Install functional chemical and biological ETP

You May Also like:

• Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) | Sustainable Cotton Production Standard
• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) | Certification Steps and Requirements
• Organic Content Standard (OCS) Certification | OCS 100 Standard
• EcoVero™ Fiber The Alternative to Viscose is a Sustainable Innovation 
• Nano Bubble Technology Reduces 95% Water in Denim Washing
• Basic Procedures of Denim Fabric Srinkage and Shade Checking
• Different Types of Enzymes That are Used in Denim Washing
• Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Washing
• Denim Washing | Different Types of Denim Washing 

Sustainable Denim Washing | Reason Behind Seeking Sustainable Denim Production

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Denim is one of the most polluting industries among all textile departments. Now a day’s, technologists are continuously trying to invent environmental and production friendly manufacturing facilities to avoid traditional procedures. Despite the ecological facts are involved this particular industry is growing rapidly than any other. Behind the giant denim industry the big issues are the huge quantity of secondhand trash, unusable stock, denim waste, high-consumption of water, hazardous chemicals and energy.

Denim is a dynamic, featuring field of fashion where the achievements of the science and new features of lifestyle are assumed in new styles. To understand the modern phenomenon of denim topic has to be accessed from different aspects. This field of fashion is rapidly growing business, thus continuous monitoring of the market is a must for all the professionals. 

Denim is also one of the biggest employers in the world. It is giving work to a lots of people: stakeholders in the textile, garment and fashion industry including small and medium enterprises and large companies, designers and creative personnel of leading global fashion houses and emerging brands, actors of the retail sector as well as there are huge interest of machinery makers, workers and technologists of the weaving mill and so on.

There is an effective cost saving aspect of sustainable denim project. In sustainability the uses of chemical and water are reduced along with energy reduction which is cost effective. For less chemical the extra cost is reducing and on the other hand less water gives less effluent which can help to save cost that involves in ETP management.

A recent study has shown that sustainable product has good quality in comparison overall conventional product. As example, for aggressive washes, where many of processes are involved, the more number of processes the more number of rejections will be, also falling of tearing strength is another concern.

The growing business of denim is becoming a threat to the environment and also unhygienic to the worker involved directly to washing. The uses of huge amount of water, hazardous chemicals and higher energy consumption are the key factors to deteriorate the condition of the environment. 

According to the prospect of reducing consumption of water, chemicals & energy and also to reduce impact of worker sustainability in denim washing has come to light in the world trend. Many of the big retailers are selling sustainable denim in the world market which is becoming more popular in EU and US market gradually.

To define sustainability we can say that this is the capability to maintain a certain process or state indefinitely. Sustainability has been expressed as meeting the need of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet human needs. 

Using the minimal resources for denim production like changing procedures or reducing one or two steps and even by using alternative chemicals & new technology are commonly treated as sustainability in denim washing. Eventually, cost of denim production may reduce if less water and bio degradable chemicals are used which is only possible through sustainable concept.

 Reason of seeking sustainability:

Global Aspects: Across the world 7.2 Billion Peoples in 2017 whereas 9 Billion people will be in 2050 or closer to that. To feed, give clothing and providing shelter for everyone does not come free. Everything has a cost. This cost to be brought by the environment.

According to total textile exchange, about 20% of industrial fresh water pollution comes from textile treatment and dyeing.

About 2700 liter of fresh water is used to make one cotton T-shirt. About 920 gallons water is used to make one jeans. Other textile products also consume huge amounts of energy and water in processing and finishing.

1 trillion kwh used by the global textile industry. This equals approximate 10% of global carbon impact.

Aspects of Bangladesh: It is estimated that in Bangladesh approximately 719 wet processing facilities including knit fabric dyeing and denim washing factories consume around 750 billion litres of groundwater annually. While in Bangladesh there are factories which are top of class, there are also indications of water consumption levels of 300 litres per kg of fabric – a figure which is approximately 3 times higher than the global average. 

High water consumption also comes with relatively high energy consumption, heating more water than strictly required in the dyeing process. This contributes to a set of water-related challenges, Bangladesh is also facing severe energy shortages. The country produces only about ¾ of its energy needs, requiring many fabric and garment manufacturers to generate their own. 

According to a study conducted by BUET (Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology) that was published in The Dailystar the Textile Industries would be dumping 20,300 crore liters of untreated wastewater into the countries water bodies every year from 2021 if the present situation goin on. Thus the pollution would be threatening fisheries, biodiversity and groundwater. 

The untreated effluents could instigate quick changes in the aquatic ecosystems and may affect the life of fisheries. The water bodies might face increase of temperature due to warm wastewater that discharges into them and cause to high impact on flora and fauna. Dhaka, Narayanganj and Gazipur belt of textile industries are major deliver of the wastewater to the nearly waterbodies. Referring to another study, it said textile industries near the Shitalakkhya river discharge their untreated dye with heavy metals into the river. 

To meet the export value $50 billion by 2021 the manufacturers are intended to enlarge their business volume that eventually impacts on high discharge of wastewater.According to the Bangladesh Environment Conservation Act, 1995 the textile dyeing and washing industries are in "Red Category Industry", that are treated as most polluting. 

There is stringent rule by the Department of Environment that ETP is must to run any wet processing facility but many of the factories are yet to install the waste water treatment plant as running the ETP is expensive, approximately tk 20-35 crore needs to install an ETP plant. Both chemical and biological ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) is mandatory and it has to be functional as well.

With this realization of need to have sustainable products and looking at huge impact of  textile industry on the environment – of which denim is the vital portion – the natural way forward is only devising new products, ways and processes which can help in reducing the environmental footprint of textiles. 

The main three pillars of the concept of Sustainable Denim Production are -

• Environmental
• Social
• Economical

Taking this in consideration there are some methods, processes and technology are being applied to reduce the impact and to make sustainable Denim product. Some of them are as follows:

• Single bath method
• Ensure front loading machines that consume less whater
• Equip laundry with modern washing machinery that enables to wash denim at low M:L ratio
• Use water meter to 100% washing machine
• Use EIM which is powered by Jeanologia
• Ozone Fading
• Use of green chemical
• Ice blasting
• Use of laser
• Install functional chemical and biological ETP

You May Also like:

• Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) | Sustainable Cotton Production Standard
• Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) | Certification Steps and Requirements
• Organic Content Standard (OCS) Certification | OCS 100 Standard
• EcoVero™ Fiber The Alternative to Viscose is a Sustainable Innovation 
• Nano Bubble Technology Reduces 95% Water in Denim Washing
• Basic Procedures of Denim Fabric Srinkage and Shade Checking
• Different Types of Enzymes That are Used in Denim Washing
• Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Washing
• Denim Washing | Different Types of Denim Washing 

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Nano Bubble Technology Reduces 95% Water in Denim Washing

Denim is considered the most interested field in the glob for creating new fashion. Researchers are developing new technology considering sustainability that leads to invent processes that can go through environmental friendly way.

Nano Bubble Technology is the new one which is widely known as e-flow system was invented and patented by Jeanologia, a Spanish company in the year 2012 and now it is coming into force in industrial use for denim washing. In fact it is the sustainable finishing process for textile that transfers chemicals on to garments made of any fabric. Water, which is the main career of any finishing process and finally discharges into environment as waste but in e-flow system air from the atmosphere is transformed into the nano bubbles where water and correct amount of chemical products naturally distribute themselves forming the nano bubble skin. Therefore, they can be used as the carriers of the chemicals and transmit them homogeneously onto the garment.

This technology can contribute to a considerable number of finishing effects with the best level of quality, a maximum less amount of water and there is zero discharge of the process.

Methodology:

Air from the atmosphere is taken into an electro-flow reactor and subjected to an electro-mechanical shock that creates nano bubbles and a flow of wet air.

Then the nano bubbles are transported into a rotating tumbler containing the denim samples and when it comes into contact with them produces a soft and natural hand feel. The samples are then dried even in the same tumble machine it is possible to dry up. Since denims are indigo dyed where unfix dyes are available on the surface of the fabric therefore cross staining may happen with this technology which can be eliminated through using a little bit anti cross staining agent or can treat with dry ozonator.

The e-flow process breaks up the indigo molecules from the surface of the denim and then the process produces a pre-shrinkage of the fabric, that will contribute to avoid high shrinkage during home laundry. It also gives a softer hand feel and so the garments are comfortable to wear and with an improvement in color fastness to rubbing properties.

Five benefits of the process:

• It reduces 95% water and 40% energy consumption.
• Elimination of waste water and treated chemical to the environment.
• Superb hand feel can be achieved
• High quality garments are treated which are being affected by conventional wash process.
• The brightness and luster are increased

Nano Bubble Technology Reduces 95% Water in Denim Washing

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Denim is considered the most interested field in the glob for creating new fashion. Researchers are developing new technology considering sustainability that leads to invent processes that can go through environmental friendly way.

Nano Bubble Technology is the new one which is widely known as e-flow system was invented and patented by Jeanologia, a Spanish company in the year 2012 and now it is coming into force in industrial use for denim washing. In fact it is the sustainable finishing process for textile that transfers chemicals on to garments made of any fabric. Water, which is the main career of any finishing process and finally discharges into environment as waste but in e-flow system air from the atmosphere is transformed into the nano bubbles where water and correct amount of chemical products naturally distribute themselves forming the nano bubble skin. Therefore, they can be used as the carriers of the chemicals and transmit them homogeneously onto the garment.

This technology can contribute to a considerable number of finishing effects with the best level of quality, a maximum less amount of water and there is zero discharge of the process.

Methodology:

Air from the atmosphere is taken into an electro-flow reactor and subjected to an electro-mechanical shock that creates nano bubbles and a flow of wet air.

Then the nano bubbles are transported into a rotating tumbler containing the denim samples and when it comes into contact with them produces a soft and natural hand feel. The samples are then dried even in the same tumble machine it is possible to dry up. Since denims are indigo dyed where unfix dyes are available on the surface of the fabric therefore cross staining may happen with this technology which can be eliminated through using a little bit anti cross staining agent or can treat with dry ozonator.

The e-flow process breaks up the indigo molecules from the surface of the denim and then the process produces a pre-shrinkage of the fabric, that will contribute to avoid high shrinkage during home laundry. It also gives a softer hand feel and so the garments are comfortable to wear and with an improvement in color fastness to rubbing properties.

Five benefits of the process:

• It reduces 95% water and 40% energy consumption.
• Elimination of waste water and treated chemical to the environment.
• Superb hand feel can be achieved
• High quality garments are treated which are being affected by conventional wash process.
• The brightness and luster are increased

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Different Types of Enzymes That are Used in Denim Washing

Article is Written By
Bidhan Sarker
Wash Technician
Kiabi International Supply Services Ltd, BD liaison office.
Contact:bdn.srkr@gmail.com

Enzymes are one kind of protein that are obtained from fermentation method from naturally existing bacteria & fungi. The structure of Enzyme is a biological polymer and it can be found in every cell. Generally called as Cellulase & it works on cotton (Cellulosic fiber) only. Enzyme are living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group.

Enzyme are very sensitive with parameters in washing cycle i.e, pH, Temperature & time. If any of these parameters are not up to the mark, result will not be accurate.The reaction of enzyme can be easily controlled, its biodegradable products, so they are eco friendly

Enzyme Classifications:

In terms of performing media pH  Enzymes are 2 types-
•    Acid Enzyme-activate in acidic media. Bath PH should keep 4.5-5.5.
•    Neutral Enzyme- actives in almost neutral media6.5- 7.5
•    Hybrid enzymes- those are mixture of enzymes to get better results in any media.

In terms of work &use there are four kinds of Enzymes available in market
•    Amylase …. Desizing
•    Cellulase …. For Salt & pepper effect, Stone wash effect, bio polishing.
•    Laccase…. … bio bleaching.
•    Catalase …… Peroxide killer. Mostly used in Knit fabric dyeing Finishing.

Basically, in denim washing Amylase, Cellulase & catalase enzymes are used widely.

Amylase:

Mainly amylase are working as a catalyst which help to degrade starch materials from the fabric. During fabric production Starch type sizing materials are used on the fabric surface. So removing those is the 1st step. Other wise  maximum chemical will not affect the main fabric area and will sub react with the starch.

Cellulase: 

Cellulase enzymes acts as an indigo/fiber cutter tools in washing. Either it hits on the indigo surface and makes Stone washing effect or cutting projecting fibers on the fabric surface. So Basically, there are 2kinds of Cellulase using for Denim washing

1.    Stone Enzyme
2.    Bio polishing Enzyme.

Cellulase Stone Enzyme has some basic nature, like-

•    Neutral Cellulase Stone enzyme gives better salt & pepper effect with very less back staining & it’s generally come sin powder form & also retains better strength of fabric than Acidic Cellulase. 

•    Acidic cellulase Stone Enzyme gives faster results but with too heavy back staining & cuts down the indigo color, also affects the strength of fabrics.  

Now a day’s laundry people needs faster results in less time & money hence chemical suppliers combined Neutral & acid cellulase in such way that it works faster & with better results than acid cellulase with cost effectiveness & known as Hybrid enzyme.

Bio Polishing Cellulase are being used to have protruded fiber removal from denim & oven fabric. This is also widely known as Anti pilling enzyme.

Any Cellulase used in process must be cleaned/killed after the process completion by simply disturbing the parameters ie. By raising high temp. or raising pH to alkaline where no Cellulase withstand.

Laccase:  

Laccase is bio bleaching agent & alternative for conventional bleaching agents. This impart greyer cast to blue denim & enhances salt & pepper effect. But due to high cost & low self-life, laundries do not prefer it. Only in few cases it is using.

Basically, this enzyme decomposes indigo molecule in some extent which causes fading the indigo color. Also, it gives a grey tone on the shade.

Different Types of Enzymes That are Used in Denim Washing

No comments

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Article is Written By
Bidhan Sarker
Wash Technician
Kiabi International Supply Services Ltd, BD liaison office.
Contact:bdn.srkr@gmail.com

Enzymes are one kind of protein that are obtained from fermentation method from naturally existing bacteria & fungi. The structure of Enzyme is a biological polymer and it can be found in every cell. Generally called as Cellulase & it works on cotton (Cellulosic fiber) only. Enzyme are living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group.

Enzyme are very sensitive with parameters in washing cycle i.e, pH, Temperature & time. If any of these parameters are not up to the mark, result will not be accurate.The reaction of enzyme can be easily controlled, its biodegradable products, so they are eco friendly

Enzyme Classifications:

In terms of performing media pH  Enzymes are 2 types-
•    Acid Enzyme-activate in acidic media. Bath PH should keep 4.5-5.5.
•    Neutral Enzyme- actives in almost neutral media6.5- 7.5
•    Hybrid enzymes- those are mixture of enzymes to get better results in any media.

In terms of work &use there are four kinds of Enzymes available in market
•    Amylase …. Desizing
•    Cellulase …. For Salt & pepper effect, Stone wash effect, bio polishing.
•    Laccase…. … bio bleaching.
•    Catalase …… Peroxide killer. Mostly used in Knit fabric dyeing Finishing.

Basically, in denim washing Amylase, Cellulase & catalase enzymes are used widely.

Amylase:

Mainly amylase are working as a catalyst which help to degrade starch materials from the fabric. During fabric production Starch type sizing materials are used on the fabric surface. So removing those is the 1st step. Other wise  maximum chemical will not affect the main fabric area and will sub react with the starch.

Cellulase: 

Cellulase enzymes acts as an indigo/fiber cutter tools in washing. Either it hits on the indigo surface and makes Stone washing effect or cutting projecting fibers on the fabric surface. So Basically, there are 2kinds of Cellulase using for Denim washing

1.    Stone Enzyme
2.    Bio polishing Enzyme.

Cellulase Stone Enzyme has some basic nature, like-

•    Neutral Cellulase Stone enzyme gives better salt & pepper effect with very less back staining & it’s generally come sin powder form & also retains better strength of fabric than Acidic Cellulase. 

•    Acidic cellulase Stone Enzyme gives faster results but with too heavy back staining & cuts down the indigo color, also affects the strength of fabrics.  

Now a day’s laundry people needs faster results in less time & money hence chemical suppliers combined Neutral & acid cellulase in such way that it works faster & with better results than acid cellulase with cost effectiveness & known as Hybrid enzyme.

Bio Polishing Cellulase are being used to have protruded fiber removal from denim & oven fabric. This is also widely known as Anti pilling enzyme.

Any Cellulase used in process must be cleaned/killed after the process completion by simply disturbing the parameters ie. By raising high temp. or raising pH to alkaline where no Cellulase withstand.

Laccase:  

Laccase is bio bleaching agent & alternative for conventional bleaching agents. This impart greyer cast to blue denim & enhances salt & pepper effect. But due to high cost & low self-life, laundries do not prefer it. Only in few cases it is using.

Basically, this enzyme decomposes indigo molecule in some extent which causes fading the indigo color. Also, it gives a grey tone on the shade.

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Basic Procedures of Denim Fabric Srinkage and Shade Checking

Article is Written By

Bidhan Sarker

Wash Technician

Kiabi International Supply Services Ltd, BD liaison office.

Contact:bdn.srkr@gmail.com

Denim Fabrics are weaved & Finished batch wise and finally delivered in rolls. Moreover, color fading variation during washing is very common in Denim production. So, it’s very important that same category or same range denims are cut, sew and wash together to keep the consistency along with the whole production. As well as Similar shrinkage group maintenance is also important to keep the garments measurements are in acceptable range.

To check and maintain all those issues Shrinkage & Blanket shade grouping is very important steps in Denim industry.Let’s see those basic procedure and checking points.

All Together Blanket: 

This is the primary checking and segregation stage.

•   Swatch size should be 12” in length and 8” in width
•   Need to attaché back side supporting fabric
•   Same as the wash target, 1 recipe. No segregation.
•   Should apply dry process if Standard have and have to achieve the color from washing.
•   2sets need to wash. 1 for segregation and another for the reference copy.
•   After washing shade segregation are done by marking shade number to keep same family shades

Group Blanket:

 This is the Second checking and segregation stage where shade wise recipe variation is set off.

• Swatch size should be 8”X8”
• According to the shade segregation, 4 sets of same (same cut piece arrangement) blankets where 2 sets are washed, and 2 sets are kept unwashed
• If the unwashed shade variations are too high, then closer shades are sewing together and wash separately to get maximum required shades.
• Cross check with the standard for the maximum shade consistency in a same group
• After checking and marking, proceed for the color continuity card 

Color Continuity Card:  

This is the final documentation and representation stage to check the whole consignment shades at a glance

• After washing all together blanket swatches they should be segregated for shade and used to make color continuity card
• Washed swatch size should be 6” in length and 7” in width. Before wash swatch size should be 6” in length and 3.5” in width. [Buyer requirement wise size might be changed]
• Swatches should be arranged in the color continuity card according to the shade family and lighter-darker.
• Shade wise fabric details are mentioned in the card so that it can be easily track.

Shrinkage Test Process: -

•  Every roll must be tested for shrinkage.
•  Shrinkage recorded in shrinkage test report
•  Need to check result against with supplier FDS (Fabric Data Sheet)
• One shrinkage group must not exceed 3% variations lengthwise/width wise. In case of warp or weft shrinkage exceedes 3%, sub grouping is necessary as illustrated below.
• For each shrinkage group need to make a size set and if required need to revise patterns.

Example: - Warp range %- 1,2,3,4,5,6

                   Weft range % :3, 4, 5

Shrinkage group	Warp range	Weft range
1	1, 2, 3,	3, 4, 5
2	4, 5, 6	3, 4, 5

Basic Procedures of Denim Fabric Srinkage and Shade Checking

No comments

Advertisements

Article is Written By

Bidhan Sarker

Wash Technician

Kiabi International Supply Services Ltd, BD liaison office.

Contact:bdn.srkr@gmail.com

Denim Fabrics are weaved & Finished batch wise and finally delivered in rolls. Moreover, color fading variation during washing is very common in Denim production. So, it’s very important that same category or same range denims are cut, sew and wash together to keep the consistency along with the whole production. As well as Similar shrinkage group maintenance is also important to keep the garments measurements are in acceptable range.

To check and maintain all those issues Shrinkage & Blanket shade grouping is very important steps in Denim industry.Let’s see those basic procedure and checking points.

All Together Blanket: 

This is the primary checking and segregation stage.

•   Swatch size should be 12” in length and 8” in width
•   Need to attaché back side supporting fabric
•   Same as the wash target, 1 recipe. No segregation.
•   Should apply dry process if Standard have and have to achieve the color from washing.
•   2sets need to wash. 1 for segregation and another for the reference copy.
•   After washing shade segregation are done by marking shade number to keep same family shades

Group Blanket:

 This is the Second checking and segregation stage where shade wise recipe variation is set off.

• Swatch size should be 8”X8”
• According to the shade segregation, 4 sets of same (same cut piece arrangement) blankets where 2 sets are washed, and 2 sets are kept unwashed
• If the unwashed shade variations are too high, then closer shades are sewing together and wash separately to get maximum required shades.
• Cross check with the standard for the maximum shade consistency in a same group
• After checking and marking, proceed for the color continuity card 

Color Continuity Card:  

This is the final documentation and representation stage to check the whole consignment shades at a glance

• After washing all together blanket swatches they should be segregated for shade and used to make color continuity card
• Washed swatch size should be 6” in length and 7” in width. Before wash swatch size should be 6” in length and 3.5” in width. [Buyer requirement wise size might be changed]
• Swatches should be arranged in the color continuity card according to the shade family and lighter-darker.
• Shade wise fabric details are mentioned in the card so that it can be easily track.

Shrinkage Test Process: -

•  Every roll must be tested for shrinkage.
•  Shrinkage recorded in shrinkage test report
•  Need to check result against with supplier FDS (Fabric Data Sheet)
• One shrinkage group must not exceed 3% variations lengthwise/width wise. In case of warp or weft shrinkage exceedes 3%, sub grouping is necessary as illustrated below.
• For each shrinkage group need to make a size set and if required need to revise patterns.

Example: - Warp range %- 1,2,3,4,5,6

                   Weft range % :3, 4, 5

Shrinkage group	Warp range	Weft range
1	1, 2, 3,	3, 4, 5
2	4, 5, 6	3, 4, 5

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Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Washing

Dry process in case of denim washing is now very common, buyers frequently ask for it because of new trend of fashion. To create an old-vintage look on denim pants, jackets or trousers different types of dry processes apply before basic washing. The common dry processes are mentioned as below.

• HAND BRUSH
• WHISKER
• 3D WHISKER
• CRINKLE
• 3D WRINKLE
• CHEVRON
• PATCH GRINDING
• HEM GRINDING
• TACKING
• NICKING
• PP SPRAY
• HIGHLIGHTING
• RESIN
• CURING

PP(KMnO4) spray

Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about the potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on the blasted area of jeans garment with the help of a normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on the garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for the next process.

It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bi-sulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are available in the market for the neutralization process like sodium meta bi-sulphate selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area.

Sand Blast

Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the affected appears are very similar to the worn out jeans.

Sand blast provides a very uniform result which cannot be achieved with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect that is blended with such a beauty that it has no difference with natural effects.

Destroy & Grinding

distressing or grinding is the process of destruction on jeans form edges of the garment. When we look at old jeans we find it destroyed from the edges of pockets, fly area, belt and bottom. This used effect can be created on jeans by grinding and is of key importance in high fashion garments.

Grinding is done of garments by pen type of stone tools. It can be done in mid of the wash process. In many workshops it is done before any wash process as a first process after stitching. Stone tools similar to grinders used in wood and stone industry are utilized to work on garments with a few amendments to their design.

Tacking/Tagging

Tacking or more commonly tag pinning is a very in fashion style in denim garment in these days. In this process the effect is created by swift tag machines with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get contrast.

Usually tag pin machines are used to attach tag pins to garment. The procedure is very simple and proceeds as; garment is folded on required area and tacked through folds.

Hand Sand

Sand ballasting with paper, commonly known as scrapping is the most widely used process for creating the blasting effect. It is usually done by mounting the garment on rubber balloons. After mounting the garment air balloon is filled with air to expose the area to operate. It is important to fill the pressure.

Hand sand is the step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get the distressed look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or its can be overall / global application as per the Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above , higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In the garment industry from 220 , 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.

Ripping, Pilling & Cuts

These effects are created where to copy a real worn out and roughly used jeans. These are created by using sharp edge tool line clippers, blades and knives.

Warp yarn is cut by a knife and the white weft yarn is left in place to create a beautiful worn out effect. The garment with cuts is then washed in washers to reveal the white the white thread. This makes the horizontal white lines of weft and if some dye is added to wash bath it will add more beauty to the garment. The secret is the cuts are always kept weft wise i.e. in horizontal to the garment. This will keep the weft in place and warp will be removed in the washing process. If it lets the warp is cut then the only thing you get after wash is a big hole.

3D Whiskers

Resin ( Formaldehyde free ) being used for achieving 3D effect ( 3 Dimensional ), Rigid Look etc. This process can be done by spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin, Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution in right combination according to the fabric strength & desired effect needed.

After application of resin solution in right proportion, make manual designing as needed on the thigh, hip & back knee area to get 3Dimentional effect. After making it , it should be manually dried with hot press or hair dryer & then must

be cured in oven at right temperature, time as mentioned in resin product manual.

Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Washing

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Dry process in case of denim washing is now very common, buyers frequently ask for it because of new trend of fashion. To create an old-vintage look on denim pants, jackets or trousers different types of dry processes apply before basic washing. The common dry processes are mentioned as below.

• HAND BRUSH
• WHISKER
• 3D WHISKER
• CRINKLE
• 3D WRINKLE
• CHEVRON
• PATCH GRINDING
• HEM GRINDING
• TACKING
• NICKING
• PP SPRAY
• HIGHLIGHTING
• RESIN
• CURING

PP(KMnO4) spray

Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about the potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on the blasted area of jeans garment with the help of a normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on the garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for the next process.

It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bi-sulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are available in the market for the neutralization process like sodium meta bi-sulphate selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area.

Sand Blast

Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the affected appears are very similar to the worn out jeans.

Sand blast provides a very uniform result which cannot be achieved with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect that is blended with such a beauty that it has no difference with natural effects.

Destroy & Grinding

distressing or grinding is the process of destruction on jeans form edges of the garment. When we look at old jeans we find it destroyed from the edges of pockets, fly area, belt and bottom. This used effect can be created on jeans by grinding and is of key importance in high fashion garments.

Grinding is done of garments by pen type of stone tools. It can be done in mid of the wash process. In many workshops it is done before any wash process as a first process after stitching. Stone tools similar to grinders used in wood and stone industry are utilized to work on garments with a few amendments to their design.

Tacking/Tagging

Tacking or more commonly tag pinning is a very in fashion style in denim garment in these days. In this process the effect is created by swift tag machines with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get contrast.

Usually tag pin machines are used to attach tag pins to garment. The procedure is very simple and proceeds as; garment is folded on required area and tacked through folds.

Hand Sand

Sand ballasting with paper, commonly known as scrapping is the most widely used process for creating the blasting effect. It is usually done by mounting the garment on rubber balloons. After mounting the garment air balloon is filled with air to expose the area to operate. It is important to fill the pressure.

Hand sand is the step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get the distressed look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or its can be overall / global application as per the Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above , higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In the garment industry from 220 , 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.

Ripping, Pilling & Cuts

These effects are created where to copy a real worn out and roughly used jeans. These are created by using sharp edge tool line clippers, blades and knives.

Warp yarn is cut by a knife and the white weft yarn is left in place to create a beautiful worn out effect. The garment with cuts is then washed in washers to reveal the white the white thread. This makes the horizontal white lines of weft and if some dye is added to wash bath it will add more beauty to the garment. The secret is the cuts are always kept weft wise i.e. in horizontal to the garment. This will keep the weft in place and warp will be removed in the washing process. If it lets the warp is cut then the only thing you get after wash is a big hole.

3D Whiskers

Resin ( Formaldehyde free ) being used for achieving 3D effect ( 3 Dimensional ), Rigid Look etc. This process can be done by spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin, Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution in right combination according to the fabric strength & desired effect needed.

After application of resin solution in right proportion, make manual designing as needed on the thigh, hip & back knee area to get 3Dimentional effect. After making it , it should be manually dried with hot press or hair dryer & then must

be cured in oven at right temperature, time as mentioned in resin product manual.

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Denim Washing | Different Types of Denim Washing

 

In today's trend Denim has achieved much preference to teenagers as well as baby to adult as blue jeans. According to the fashionable denim garments, subjected to versatile washing techniques to obtain a worn, vintage look with various effects like as hand sand, whiskers, 3D, Nicking, Destroy etc. To produce a fading effect is the main object of denim washing without affecting the main body fabrics and patchiness, crinkles, seam puckering, hairiness, de-pilling, softened-hand feel, stabilized dimensions etc.

Denim washing involves some consecutive processes like as below-

• Pretreatment ( De-sizing, Rinsing, Scouring etc)
• Basic Washing (Enzyme, Stone, Bleach, Sand Blast, Acid, Garment or Rinse)
• Cleaning process
• Bleaching
• Tinting (Dyeing)
• Softening Process

Enzyme Washing
Basically denim washing directly involves to enzymatic treatments to obtain old, faded as well as vintage look of the garments. This is a bio-catalytic method wherein an ultra-soft handle effect can be produced on denim. The hydrolytic effect of enzymes causes the loss of surface fiber or projecting fiber, which improves surface smoothness and softness of the fabric. Enzyme reduces colors from the surface of the body and the effects of fading depends on the timing and availability of enzyme in the bath.

Stone Washing
This method is most common and is used to give denim an 'old-look'. Volcanic Pumice stone is one of the most important components used to abrade the surface of the fabric to obtain a surface pattern effect with color contrast and soft - handle. In this process, the fibers on the surface of the fabric are broken and removed and the inner white fibers of the warp yarn are gradually exposed. Natural patterns can be formed as the degree of abrasions varies in various parts of the garment.


Bleach Washing
This process is usually done without stones by using an oxidative bleaching agent like hypochlorite or peroxide bleaching. Before bleach washing enzymatic treatment of denim might be required. Sodium hypochlorite is normally used as it is cheap, convenient and quick. Other agents used are sodium percarbonate and sodium perborate.


Sand Blasting
This process is used to obtain localized abrasion effect. Usually, aluminum oxide granules are blasted onto the garment surface at a very high speed. The abrasion force rubs off the indigo-dyed fibres.

Denim Washing | Different Types of Denim Washing

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In today's trend Denim has achieved much preference to teenagers as well as baby to adult as blue jeans. According to the fashionable denim garments, subjected to versatile washing techniques to obtain a worn, vintage look with various effects like as hand sand, whiskers, 3D, Nicking, Destroy etc. To produce a fading effect is the main object of denim washing without affecting the main body fabrics and patchiness, crinkles, seam puckering, hairiness, de-pilling, softened-hand feel, stabilized dimensions etc.

Denim washing involves some consecutive processes like as below-

• Pretreatment ( De-sizing, Rinsing, Scouring etc)
• Basic Washing (Enzyme, Stone, Bleach, Sand Blast, Acid, Garment or Rinse)
• Cleaning process
• Bleaching
• Tinting (Dyeing)
• Softening Process

Enzyme Washing
Basically denim washing directly involves to enzymatic treatments to obtain old, faded as well as vintage look of the garments. This is a bio-catalytic method wherein an ultra-soft handle effect can be produced on denim. The hydrolytic effect of enzymes causes the loss of surface fiber or projecting fiber, which improves surface smoothness and softness of the fabric. Enzyme reduces colors from the surface of the body and the effects of fading depends on the timing and availability of enzyme in the bath.

Stone Washing
This method is most common and is used to give denim an 'old-look'. Volcanic Pumice stone is one of the most important components used to abrade the surface of the fabric to obtain a surface pattern effect with color contrast and soft - handle. In this process, the fibers on the surface of the fabric are broken and removed and the inner white fibers of the warp yarn are gradually exposed. Natural patterns can be formed as the degree of abrasions varies in various parts of the garment.


Bleach Washing
This process is usually done without stones by using an oxidative bleaching agent like hypochlorite or peroxide bleaching. Before bleach washing enzymatic treatment of denim might be required. Sodium hypochlorite is normally used as it is cheap, convenient and quick. Other agents used are sodium percarbonate and sodium perborate.


Sand Blasting
This process is used to obtain localized abrasion effect. Usually, aluminum oxide granules are blasted onto the garment surface at a very high speed. The abrasion force rubs off the indigo-dyed fibres.

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