Sewing Thread Consumption Procedure | Thread Calculation for Garments Costing

Sewing threads are basic element of making any kind of apparel so it it highly needed to calculate actual consumption for making any item. Today's market is very competitive so merchandiser's should give attention on thread consumption also. Sometimes merchandiser's ignore this issue with little importance but for sustainable business policy you have to maintain accuracy in all portions and ensure the least wastage as well.

There is a basic formula for doing this thing with less effort and time.In that formula you will get multiplying factors according to machine type and stitch class. To determine thread consumption you just need to multiply seam length with that factors. This way one can estimate total thread requirement for making a garment.

Thread consumption depends on following factors-

• Style of the garment
• Types of stitch used
• Stitch per inch (SPI)
• Garments size/measurements
• Seam thickness
• Thread tension
• Thread count

The standard formula belongs according to the below procedures...

• Find out stitches of various classes
• Measure the length of each type of stitch
• Measure the length of sewing thread/inch stitch
• Calculate total thread in length for each stitch
• Summarized the total thread for all stitches

Thread consumption ratios as per coats international:

Some basic consumptions are given below:

Item	Thread Consumption per body
Basic t-shirt	125 mtr
Basic polo shirt	180 mtr
Basic long sleeve shirt	150 mtr
Basic short sleeve woven shiirt	125 mtr
Basic shorts	350 mtr
Classic short	450 mtr
Basic long pants	350 mtr
Classic long pants	450 mtr
Basic short all	350 mtr
Basic overall	400 mtr
Padded coverall	450 mtr
Basic romper	200 mtr
Skirt	300 mtr
Panty	50 mtr
Brief	100 mtr
Brassier	150 mtr
Tank top	50 mtr
Denim 5pkt pant	400 mtr
Denim jacket	450 mtr
Twill jacket	450 mtr

Sewing Thread Consumption Procedure | Thread Calculation for Garments Costing

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Sewing threads are basic element of making any kind of apparel so it it highly needed to calculate actual consumption for making any item. Today's market is very competitive so merchandiser's should give attention on thread consumption also. Sometimes merchandiser's ignore this issue with little importance but for sustainable business policy you have to maintain accuracy in all portions and ensure the least wastage as well.

There is a basic formula for doing this thing with less effort and time.In that formula you will get multiplying factors according to machine type and stitch class. To determine thread consumption you just need to multiply seam length with that factors. This way one can estimate total thread requirement for making a garment.

Thread consumption depends on following factors-

• Style of the garment
• Types of stitch used
• Stitch per inch (SPI)
• Garments size/measurements
• Seam thickness
• Thread tension
• Thread count

The standard formula belongs according to the below procedures...

• Find out stitches of various classes
• Measure the length of each type of stitch
• Measure the length of sewing thread/inch stitch
• Calculate total thread in length for each stitch
• Summarized the total thread for all stitches

Thread consumption ratios as per coats international:

Some basic consumptions are given below:

Item	Thread Consumption per body
Basic t-shirt	125 mtr
Basic polo shirt	180 mtr
Basic long sleeve shirt	150 mtr
Basic short sleeve woven shiirt	125 mtr
Basic shorts	350 mtr
Classic short	450 mtr
Basic long pants	350 mtr
Classic long pants	450 mtr
Basic short all	350 mtr
Basic overall	400 mtr
Padded coverall	450 mtr
Basic romper	200 mtr
Skirt	300 mtr
Panty	50 mtr
Brief	100 mtr
Brassier	150 mtr
Tank top	50 mtr
Denim 5pkt pant	400 mtr
Denim jacket	450 mtr
Twill jacket	450 mtr

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Letter of Credit(L/C) Work Flowchart for Garments Manufacturing Business | Letter of Credit Operation Procedures

A Letter of Credit is a payment term generally used for international sales transactions. It is basically a mechanism, which allows importers/buyers to offer secure terms of payment to exporters/sellers in which a bank (or more than one bank) gets involved. The technical term for Letter of credit is 'Documentary Credit'. At the very outset one must understand is that Letters of credit deal in documents, not goods. The idea in an international trade transaction is to shift the risk from the actual buyer to a bank. Thus a LC (as it is commonly referred to) is a payment undertaking given by a bank to the seller and is issued on behalf of the applicant i.e. the buyer. The Buyer is the Applicant and the Seller is the Beneficiary. The Bank that issues the LC is referred to as the Issuing Bank which is generally in the country of the Buyer. The Bank that Advises the LC to the Seller is called the Advising Bank which is generally in the country of the Seller.
The specified bank makes the payment upon the successful presentation of the required documents by the seller within the specified time frame. Note that the Bank scrutinizes the 'documents' and not the 'goods' for making payment. Thus the process works both in favor of both the buyer and the seller. The Seller gets assured that if documents are presented on time and in the way that they have been requested on the LC the payment will be made and Buyer on the other hand is assured that the bank will thoroughly examine these presented documents and ensure that they meet the terms and conditions stipulated in the LC.


Typically the documents requested in a Letter of Credit are the following:

1.L/c application from
2.Valid trade license.
3.Import registration corticated (lrc)
4.Tin or inmates declaration
5.Memorandum of association
6.Indent pr Performa Invoice
7.Photographs
8.Bank gurrntee certificate
9.Agreement form
10.Insurance coverage
11.Commercial invoice
12.Transport document such as a Bill of lading or Airway bill,
13. Insurance document;
14.Inspection Certificate
15.Certificate of Origin


But there could be others too.

Letters of credit (LC) deal in documents, not goods. The LC could be 'irrevocable' or 'revocable'. An irrevocable LC cannot be changed unless both the buyer and seller agree. Whereas in a revocable LC changes to the LC can be made without the consent of the beneficiary. A 'sight' LC means that payment is made immediately to the beneficiary/seller/exporter upon presentation of the correct documents in the required time frame. A 'time' or 'date' LC will specify when payment will be made at a future date and upon presentation of the required documents.

Essential Principles Governing Law Within the United States, Article 5 of the Uniform Commercial Code (UCC) governs L/Cs. Article 5 is founded on two principles:
(1) the L/C,s independence from the underlying business transaction, and
 (2) strict compliance with documentary requirements.

1) Strict Compliance
How strict compliance? Some courts insist upon literal compliance, so that a misspelled name or typographical error voids the exporter's/beneficiary's/seller's demand for payment. Other courts require payment upon substantial compliance with documentary requirements. The bank may insist upon strict compliance with the requirements of the L/C. In the absence of conformity with the L/C, the Seller cannot force payment and the bank pays at its own risk. Sellers should be careful and remember that the bank may insist upon strict compliance with all documentary requirements in the LC. If the documents do not conform, the bank should give the seller prompt, detailed notice, specifying all discrepancies and shortfalls.

2) The Independence Doctrine
Letters of credit deal in documents, not goods. L/Cs are purely documentary transactions, separate and independent from the underlying contract between the Buyer and the Seller. The bank honoring the L/C is concerned only to see that the documents conform with the requirements in the L/C. If the documents conform, the bank will pay, and obtain reimbursement from the Buyer/Applicant. The bank need not look past the documents to examine the underlying sale of merchandise or the product itself. The letter of credit is independent from the underlying transaction and, except in rare cases of fraud or forgery, the issuing bank must honor conforming documents. Thus, Sellers are given protections that the issuing bank must honor its demand for payment (which complies with the terms of the L/C) regardless of whether the goods conform with the underlying sale contract.

3 Most Common Reasons why Letters of Credit Fail
1) Time Lines:
The letter of credit should have an expiration date that gives sufficient time to the seller to get all the tasks specified and the documents required in the LC. If the letter of credit expires, the seller is left with no protection. Most LC s fail because Sellers/Exporters/Beneficiaries were unable to perform within the specified time frame in the LC. Three dates are of importance in an LC:

a) The date by when shipment should have occurred. The date on the Bill of Lading.
b) The date by when documents have to be presented to the Bank
c) The expiry date of the LC itself.

A good source to give you an idea of the timelines would be your freight forwarding agent. As a seller check with your freight forwarding agent to see if you would be in a position to comply.

2) Discrepancy within the Letter of Credit:
Letters of credit could also have discrepancies. Even a discrepancy as small as a missing period or comma can render the document invalid. Thus, the earlier in the process the letter of credit is examined, the more time is available to identify and fix the problem. This is another common reason why LCs fail.

3) Compliance with the Documents and Conditions within the Letter of Credit.
Letters of credit are about documents and not facts; the inability to produce a given document at the right time will nullify the letter of credit. As a Seller/Exporter/Beneficiary you should try and run the compliance issues with the various department or individuals involved within your organization to see if compliance would be a problem. And if so, have the LC amended before shipping the goods.
Learning the Terminology of Exporting

INCOTERMS (TRANSPORTATION)
Shipping terms set the parameters for international shipments, specify points of origin and destination, outline conditions under which title is transferred from seller to buyer, and determine which party is responsible for shipping costs. They also indicate which party assumes the cost if merchandise is lost or damaged during transit. To provide a common terminology for international shipping, INCOTERMS (International Commercial Terms) have been developed under the auspices of the International Chamber of Commerce.

All letters of credit contain these elements:

• A payment undertaking given by the bank (issuing bank)
• On behalf of the buyer (applicant)
• To pay a seller (beneficiary)
• A given amount of money
• On presentation of specified documents representing the supply of goods
• Within specific time limits
• These documents conforming to terms and conditions set out in the letter of credit
• Documents to be presented at a specified place.

The stages of the letter of credit:
1.    Buyer and seller agree terms, including means of transport, period of credit offered (if any), latest date of shipment, Incomer to be used

2.    Buyer applies to bank for issue of letter of credit. Bank will evaluate buyer's credit standing, and may require cash cover and/or reduction of other lending limits

3.    Issuing bank issues L/C, sending it to the Advising bank by airmail or (more commonly) electronic means such as telex or SWIFT

4.    Advising bank establishes authenticity of the letter of credit using signature books or test codes, then informs seller (beneficiary). Advising bank MAY confirm L/C, i.e. add its own payment undertaking

5.    Seller should now check that L/C matches commercial agreement, and that all its terms and conditions can be satisfied, (e.g. all documents can be obtained in good time.) If there is anything that may cause a problem, an AMENDMENT must be requested.

6.    Seller ships the goods, then assembles the documents called for the L/C (invoice, transport document etc.) Before presenting the documents to the bank, the seller should check them for discrepancies with the L/C, and correct the documents where necessary.

7.    The documents are presented to a bank, often the Advising bank. The Advising bank checks the documents against the L/C. If the documents are compliant, the bank pays the seller and forwards the documents to the Issuing bank

8.    The Issuing bank now checks the documents itself. If they are in order (and it is a sight L/C), it reimburses the seller's bank immediately

9.    The Issuing bank debits the buyer and releases the documents (including transport document), so that the buyer can claim the goods from the carrier.

 
 Different kinds of L/C :
1. Revocable L/C/irrevocable L/C
2. Confirmed L/C/unconfirmed L/C
3. Sight L/C/since L/C
4. Transferable L/C/untransferable L/C
5. Divisible L/C/indivisible L/C
6. Revolving L/C
7. L/C with T/T reimbursement clause
8. Without recourse L/C/with recourse L/C
9. Documentary L/C/clean L/C
10. Deferred payment L/C/anticipatory L/C
11. Back to back L/Reciprocal L/C
12. TSraveller's L/C(or: circular L/C)

 1. Unconfirmed LC:
 If your credit is unconfirmed neither the advising bank or any nominated bank commits to pay under the credit. Therefore no cash cover is required at the point of establishing the LC, saving possible interest charge on borrowed funds. Payment can be made to the supplier at any time within the validity of the LC, before or after shipment as agreed by both the buyer and seller. Unconfirmed LC also eliminates the ˜confirmation charge" which is the most significant overseas bank charge.

2. Documentary L.C:
A documentary L.C is one which provides for bills to be accompanied by the documents of title to goods. Such as bill of lading, invoice and the marine insurance policy of insurance etc

3. Clean letter of credit:
If there is no condition attach to the bill and the issuing bank makes payment up to a limit of credit, the letter of credit is called clean or open letter of credit. It is payable to the exporter according to his will.

4. Fix Letter of credit:
The amount of this type of letter of credit remains the same within a fix period. When the original fixed amount is used fresh credit is necessary. In other words, a fixed L.C. is that which is available for a fixed total amount payable in one or more than one drafts.

5. Confirmed LC:
 Confirmation of LC could be backed by dollar or local currency borrowings or by outright payment of cash. The LC may be confirmed from the beginning of the transaction or at any point in the life of the LC.

6. Revolving LC:
 If you deal with a particular supplier on a very regular basis, you may save administrative time, effort and bank charges by setting up a revolving credit. This can be set up to revolve either by time or amount to mirror workflow, such as production runs or growth seasons. The major advantage being the savings made in local bank charges by grouping various LC under one Revolving LC.

7. Standby LC:
 Like a bank guarantee, a standby LC is payable on first demand, usually against the beneficiary's simple declaration of non-performance, accompanied by minimal support documentation. This offers the seller maximum control over the claims process. This is ideal for contracts involving regular monthly/periodic shipments. The supplier may wish to be secured against default in payment in open account trading or Bills for collection. Standby LC reduces the bank charges associated with LC transactions, while still providing maximum security for the supplier on various shipments. No cash cover is required for import transactions and payments are made when due eliminating both interest expense and exchange rate risk. Standby LC combines the security associated with LC with the flexibility and reduced cost associated with Bills for collection transactions.

8. An irrevocable LC:
An irrevocable LC cannot be changed unless both the buyer and seller agree. Whereas in a revocable LC changes to the LC can be made without the consent of the beneficiary. A 'sight' LC means that payment is made immediately to the beneficiary/seller/exporter upon presentation of the correct documents in the required time frame. A 'time' or 'date' LC will specify when payment will be made at a future date and upon presentation of the required documents.

Step-by-step process:

- Buyer and seller agree to conduct business. The seller wants a letter of credit to guarantee payment.

- Buyer applies to his bank for a letter of credit in favor of the seller.

- Buyer's bank approves the credit risk of the buyer, issues and forwards the credit to its correspondent bank (advising or confirming). The correspondent bank is usually located in the same geographical location as the seller (beneficiary).

- Advising bank will authenticate the credit and forward the original credit to the seller (beneficiary).

- Seller (beneficiary) ships the goods, then verifies and develops the documentary requirements to support the letter of credit. Documentary requirements may vary greatly depending on the perceived risk involved in dealing with a particular company.

- Seller presents the required documents to the advising or confirming bank to be processed for payment.

- Advising or confirming bank examines the documents for compliance with the terms and conditions of the letter of credit.

- If the documents are correct, the advising or confirming bank will claim the funds by:

• Debiting the account of the issuing bank.
• Waiting until the issuing bank remits, after receiving the documents.
• Reimburse on another bank as required in the credit.

- Advising or confirming bank will forward the documents to the issuing bank.
Issuing bank will examine the documents for compliance. If they are in order, the issuing bank will debit the buyer's account.

- Issuing bank then forwards the documents to the buyer.

Letter of Credit(L/C) Work Flowchart for Garments Manufacturing Business | Letter of Credit Operation Procedures

No comments

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A Letter of Credit is a payment term generally used for international sales transactions. It is basically a mechanism, which allows importers/buyers to offer secure terms of payment to exporters/sellers in which a bank (or more than one bank) gets involved. The technical term for Letter of credit is 'Documentary Credit'. At the very outset one must understand is that Letters of credit deal in documents, not goods. The idea in an international trade transaction is to shift the risk from the actual buyer to a bank. Thus a LC (as it is commonly referred to) is a payment undertaking given by a bank to the seller and is issued on behalf of the applicant i.e. the buyer. The Buyer is the Applicant and the Seller is the Beneficiary. The Bank that issues the LC is referred to as the Issuing Bank which is generally in the country of the Buyer. The Bank that Advises the LC to the Seller is called the Advising Bank which is generally in the country of the Seller.
The specified bank makes the payment upon the successful presentation of the required documents by the seller within the specified time frame. Note that the Bank scrutinizes the 'documents' and not the 'goods' for making payment. Thus the process works both in favor of both the buyer and the seller. The Seller gets assured that if documents are presented on time and in the way that they have been requested on the LC the payment will be made and Buyer on the other hand is assured that the bank will thoroughly examine these presented documents and ensure that they meet the terms and conditions stipulated in the LC.


Typically the documents requested in a Letter of Credit are the following:

1.L/c application from
2.Valid trade license.
3.Import registration corticated (lrc)
4.Tin or inmates declaration
5.Memorandum of association
6.Indent pr Performa Invoice
7.Photographs
8.Bank gurrntee certificate
9.Agreement form
10.Insurance coverage
11.Commercial invoice
12.Transport document such as a Bill of lading or Airway bill,
13. Insurance document;
14.Inspection Certificate
15.Certificate of Origin


But there could be others too.

Letters of credit (LC) deal in documents, not goods. The LC could be 'irrevocable' or 'revocable'. An irrevocable LC cannot be changed unless both the buyer and seller agree. Whereas in a revocable LC changes to the LC can be made without the consent of the beneficiary. A 'sight' LC means that payment is made immediately to the beneficiary/seller/exporter upon presentation of the correct documents in the required time frame. A 'time' or 'date' LC will specify when payment will be made at a future date and upon presentation of the required documents.

Essential Principles Governing Law Within the United States, Article 5 of the Uniform Commercial Code (UCC) governs L/Cs. Article 5 is founded on two principles:
(1) the L/C,s independence from the underlying business transaction, and
 (2) strict compliance with documentary requirements.

1) Strict Compliance
How strict compliance? Some courts insist upon literal compliance, so that a misspelled name or typographical error voids the exporter's/beneficiary's/seller's demand for payment. Other courts require payment upon substantial compliance with documentary requirements. The bank may insist upon strict compliance with the requirements of the L/C. In the absence of conformity with the L/C, the Seller cannot force payment and the bank pays at its own risk. Sellers should be careful and remember that the bank may insist upon strict compliance with all documentary requirements in the LC. If the documents do not conform, the bank should give the seller prompt, detailed notice, specifying all discrepancies and shortfalls.

2) The Independence Doctrine
Letters of credit deal in documents, not goods. L/Cs are purely documentary transactions, separate and independent from the underlying contract between the Buyer and the Seller. The bank honoring the L/C is concerned only to see that the documents conform with the requirements in the L/C. If the documents conform, the bank will pay, and obtain reimbursement from the Buyer/Applicant. The bank need not look past the documents to examine the underlying sale of merchandise or the product itself. The letter of credit is independent from the underlying transaction and, except in rare cases of fraud or forgery, the issuing bank must honor conforming documents. Thus, Sellers are given protections that the issuing bank must honor its demand for payment (which complies with the terms of the L/C) regardless of whether the goods conform with the underlying sale contract.

3 Most Common Reasons why Letters of Credit Fail
1) Time Lines:
The letter of credit should have an expiration date that gives sufficient time to the seller to get all the tasks specified and the documents required in the LC. If the letter of credit expires, the seller is left with no protection. Most LC s fail because Sellers/Exporters/Beneficiaries were unable to perform within the specified time frame in the LC. Three dates are of importance in an LC:

a) The date by when shipment should have occurred. The date on the Bill of Lading.
b) The date by when documents have to be presented to the Bank
c) The expiry date of the LC itself.

A good source to give you an idea of the timelines would be your freight forwarding agent. As a seller check with your freight forwarding agent to see if you would be in a position to comply.

2) Discrepancy within the Letter of Credit:
Letters of credit could also have discrepancies. Even a discrepancy as small as a missing period or comma can render the document invalid. Thus, the earlier in the process the letter of credit is examined, the more time is available to identify and fix the problem. This is another common reason why LCs fail.

3) Compliance with the Documents and Conditions within the Letter of Credit.
Letters of credit are about documents and not facts; the inability to produce a given document at the right time will nullify the letter of credit. As a Seller/Exporter/Beneficiary you should try and run the compliance issues with the various department or individuals involved within your organization to see if compliance would be a problem. And if so, have the LC amended before shipping the goods.
Learning the Terminology of Exporting

INCOTERMS (TRANSPORTATION)
Shipping terms set the parameters for international shipments, specify points of origin and destination, outline conditions under which title is transferred from seller to buyer, and determine which party is responsible for shipping costs. They also indicate which party assumes the cost if merchandise is lost or damaged during transit. To provide a common terminology for international shipping, INCOTERMS (International Commercial Terms) have been developed under the auspices of the International Chamber of Commerce.

All letters of credit contain these elements:

• A payment undertaking given by the bank (issuing bank)
• On behalf of the buyer (applicant)
• To pay a seller (beneficiary)
• A given amount of money
• On presentation of specified documents representing the supply of goods
• Within specific time limits
• These documents conforming to terms and conditions set out in the letter of credit
• Documents to be presented at a specified place.

The stages of the letter of credit:
1.    Buyer and seller agree terms, including means of transport, period of credit offered (if any), latest date of shipment, Incomer to be used

2.    Buyer applies to bank for issue of letter of credit. Bank will evaluate buyer's credit standing, and may require cash cover and/or reduction of other lending limits

3.    Issuing bank issues L/C, sending it to the Advising bank by airmail or (more commonly) electronic means such as telex or SWIFT

4.    Advising bank establishes authenticity of the letter of credit using signature books or test codes, then informs seller (beneficiary). Advising bank MAY confirm L/C, i.e. add its own payment undertaking

5.    Seller should now check that L/C matches commercial agreement, and that all its terms and conditions can be satisfied, (e.g. all documents can be obtained in good time.) If there is anything that may cause a problem, an AMENDMENT must be requested.

6.    Seller ships the goods, then assembles the documents called for the L/C (invoice, transport document etc.) Before presenting the documents to the bank, the seller should check them for discrepancies with the L/C, and correct the documents where necessary.

7.    The documents are presented to a bank, often the Advising bank. The Advising bank checks the documents against the L/C. If the documents are compliant, the bank pays the seller and forwards the documents to the Issuing bank

8.    The Issuing bank now checks the documents itself. If they are in order (and it is a sight L/C), it reimburses the seller's bank immediately

9.    The Issuing bank debits the buyer and releases the documents (including transport document), so that the buyer can claim the goods from the carrier.

 
 Different kinds of L/C :
1. Revocable L/C/irrevocable L/C
2. Confirmed L/C/unconfirmed L/C
3. Sight L/C/since L/C
4. Transferable L/C/untransferable L/C
5. Divisible L/C/indivisible L/C
6. Revolving L/C
7. L/C with T/T reimbursement clause
8. Without recourse L/C/with recourse L/C
9. Documentary L/C/clean L/C
10. Deferred payment L/C/anticipatory L/C
11. Back to back L/Reciprocal L/C
12. TSraveller's L/C(or: circular L/C)

 1. Unconfirmed LC:
 If your credit is unconfirmed neither the advising bank or any nominated bank commits to pay under the credit. Therefore no cash cover is required at the point of establishing the LC, saving possible interest charge on borrowed funds. Payment can be made to the supplier at any time within the validity of the LC, before or after shipment as agreed by both the buyer and seller. Unconfirmed LC also eliminates the ˜confirmation charge" which is the most significant overseas bank charge.

2. Documentary L.C:
A documentary L.C is one which provides for bills to be accompanied by the documents of title to goods. Such as bill of lading, invoice and the marine insurance policy of insurance etc

3. Clean letter of credit:
If there is no condition attach to the bill and the issuing bank makes payment up to a limit of credit, the letter of credit is called clean or open letter of credit. It is payable to the exporter according to his will.

4. Fix Letter of credit:
The amount of this type of letter of credit remains the same within a fix period. When the original fixed amount is used fresh credit is necessary. In other words, a fixed L.C. is that which is available for a fixed total amount payable in one or more than one drafts.

5. Confirmed LC:
 Confirmation of LC could be backed by dollar or local currency borrowings or by outright payment of cash. The LC may be confirmed from the beginning of the transaction or at any point in the life of the LC.

6. Revolving LC:
 If you deal with a particular supplier on a very regular basis, you may save administrative time, effort and bank charges by setting up a revolving credit. This can be set up to revolve either by time or amount to mirror workflow, such as production runs or growth seasons. The major advantage being the savings made in local bank charges by grouping various LC under one Revolving LC.

7. Standby LC:
 Like a bank guarantee, a standby LC is payable on first demand, usually against the beneficiary's simple declaration of non-performance, accompanied by minimal support documentation. This offers the seller maximum control over the claims process. This is ideal for contracts involving regular monthly/periodic shipments. The supplier may wish to be secured against default in payment in open account trading or Bills for collection. Standby LC reduces the bank charges associated with LC transactions, while still providing maximum security for the supplier on various shipments. No cash cover is required for import transactions and payments are made when due eliminating both interest expense and exchange rate risk. Standby LC combines the security associated with LC with the flexibility and reduced cost associated with Bills for collection transactions.

8. An irrevocable LC:
An irrevocable LC cannot be changed unless both the buyer and seller agree. Whereas in a revocable LC changes to the LC can be made without the consent of the beneficiary. A 'sight' LC means that payment is made immediately to the beneficiary/seller/exporter upon presentation of the correct documents in the required time frame. A 'time' or 'date' LC will specify when payment will be made at a future date and upon presentation of the required documents.

Step-by-step process:

- Buyer and seller agree to conduct business. The seller wants a letter of credit to guarantee payment.

- Buyer applies to his bank for a letter of credit in favor of the seller.

- Buyer's bank approves the credit risk of the buyer, issues and forwards the credit to its correspondent bank (advising or confirming). The correspondent bank is usually located in the same geographical location as the seller (beneficiary).

- Advising bank will authenticate the credit and forward the original credit to the seller (beneficiary).

- Seller (beneficiary) ships the goods, then verifies and develops the documentary requirements to support the letter of credit. Documentary requirements may vary greatly depending on the perceived risk involved in dealing with a particular company.

- Seller presents the required documents to the advising or confirming bank to be processed for payment.

- Advising or confirming bank examines the documents for compliance with the terms and conditions of the letter of credit.

- If the documents are correct, the advising or confirming bank will claim the funds by:

• Debiting the account of the issuing bank.
• Waiting until the issuing bank remits, after receiving the documents.
• Reimburse on another bank as required in the credit.

- Advising or confirming bank will forward the documents to the issuing bank.
Issuing bank will examine the documents for compliance. If they are in order, the issuing bank will debit the buyer's account.

- Issuing bank then forwards the documents to the buyer.

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International Wash Care Instructions Used in Garment | Home Laundering and Drycleaning Symbols for Clothing

Man does not buy garments for temporary or one time used. When we use garments they become dirty and needs to washed off. All types of garment should not wash with general soap or detergent. Some garments need not wash, they are typically dry cleaned and some are washed but not apply in chlorine bleach or any other solvents. Water temperature is also another factor for garment washing because there might be some decorative elements which will be destroyed. So garments should be washed with the specific care instructions suggest by the seller normally. 

To take care of garments there are some symbols and details  which are recognized internationally and they are used in garment care labels. These symbols are usually known as garment care labeling code or symbols.

At a minimum, laundering instructions include, in order, four symbols: washing, bleaching, drying, and ironing. Dry cleaning instructions include one symbol. Additional symbols or words or both may be used to clarify the instructions. The water temperatures listed are provided as a guideline. Actual water temperatures obtained in the home depend on the washing machine settings (hot, warm, cold), regional water supply temperatures, and water heating settings.

To assist consumers in getting information about clothing care, the Federal Trade Commission in 1971 issued the Care Labeling Rule. This Rule requires manufacturers and importers to attach care instructions to garment. A revised version of this Rule became effective on January 2, 1984. The revisions to the Rule were based on information gathered by the Commission through public hearings and written comments. Data revealed that while consumers found care labels to be useful, they also believed labels were often incomplete, inaccurate, and inconsistent.

The revised version of the Rule makes no major modifications. rather, the changes clarify the Rule requirements and simplify the Rule language. The Commission anticipates that these changes will make it easier for industry to comply with the Rule. In turn, consumers will benefit from clearer and more complete care instructions.

Care labels often are a deciding factor when consumers shop for clothing. While some are looking for the convenience of dry cleaning, others prefer the economy of buying garments they can wash. Some manufacturers try to reach both markets with garments that can be cleaned by either method. The Rule allows you to provide more than one set of care instructions, if you have a reasonable basis for each instruction.

The Federal Trade Commission has developed this business manual to assist you in understanding and complying with the Rule. If you have questions not addressed in this booklet, write to the Federal Trade Commission, Enforcement Division. Bureau of Consumer Protection, Washington, D. C. 20580.

Wash Care Symbols and Details

Bleaching Care Symbols 

Drying Care Symbols

Dry Cleaning Symbols

 Ironing Symbols

International Wash Care Instructions Used in Garment | Home Laundering and Drycleaning Symbols for Clothing

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Man does not buy garments for temporary or one time used. When we use garments they become dirty and needs to washed off. All types of garment should not wash with general soap or detergent. Some garments need not wash, they are typically dry cleaned and some are washed but not apply in chlorine bleach or any other solvents. Water temperature is also another factor for garment washing because there might be some decorative elements which will be destroyed. So garments should be washed with the specific care instructions suggest by the seller normally. 

To take care of garments there are some symbols and details  which are recognized internationally and they are used in garment care labels. These symbols are usually known as garment care labeling code or symbols.

At a minimum, laundering instructions include, in order, four symbols: washing, bleaching, drying, and ironing. Dry cleaning instructions include one symbol. Additional symbols or words or both may be used to clarify the instructions. The water temperatures listed are provided as a guideline. Actual water temperatures obtained in the home depend on the washing machine settings (hot, warm, cold), regional water supply temperatures, and water heating settings.

To assist consumers in getting information about clothing care, the Federal Trade Commission in 1971 issued the Care Labeling Rule. This Rule requires manufacturers and importers to attach care instructions to garment. A revised version of this Rule became effective on January 2, 1984. The revisions to the Rule were based on information gathered by the Commission through public hearings and written comments. Data revealed that while consumers found care labels to be useful, they also believed labels were often incomplete, inaccurate, and inconsistent.

The revised version of the Rule makes no major modifications. rather, the changes clarify the Rule requirements and simplify the Rule language. The Commission anticipates that these changes will make it easier for industry to comply with the Rule. In turn, consumers will benefit from clearer and more complete care instructions.

Care labels often are a deciding factor when consumers shop for clothing. While some are looking for the convenience of dry cleaning, others prefer the economy of buying garments they can wash. Some manufacturers try to reach both markets with garments that can be cleaned by either method. The Rule allows you to provide more than one set of care instructions, if you have a reasonable basis for each instruction.

The Federal Trade Commission has developed this business manual to assist you in understanding and complying with the Rule. If you have questions not addressed in this booklet, write to the Federal Trade Commission, Enforcement Division. Bureau of Consumer Protection, Washington, D. C. 20580.

Wash Care Symbols and Details

Bleaching Care Symbols 

Drying Care Symbols

Dry Cleaning Symbols

 Ironing Symbols

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Garemnt Costing Procedure | Details of Garment Costing | Woven and Knit Garment Cost Sheet

Costing is very important for getting an order as well as it focuses the future trends of any industry. To make a effective, profitable and competitive cost sheet one must know about all the processes involves in garments manufacturing very well. All the updated news and costs of fabric, CM of particular garments, trims, wash cost, embroidery cost, traveling cost, terms of payments must be known. Merchandiser is the key person who is responsible for the costing of any item. Now the world is becoming more competitive for garments market and manufacturing as well. So a competitive cost sheet of any item affect the growth of any company.While the industry recorded a remarkable growth in a protected market environment, it faces a series of challenges that have come to the fore in the post-quota situation, notably in areas such as:

• Price competitiveness.
• Faster lead times.
• High raw material base.
• Full service offering.
• Access to market. "A Cost is the value of economic resources used as a result of producing or doing the things costed".

Garments costing is effectively dependent on the fabrication. We all know that there are main two types of garments are available, knit and woven. Fabric consumption is one of the main element of garments costing. You can save much with doing better fabric consumption for both woven and knit. Woven fabrics are generally calculated in yards and knit fabrics are in kgs.

Woven Garments Consumption Calculation in Details

Knit Garments Consumption Calculation in Details

The basic requirements of garments costing are-

• Fabric Consumption
• CM of  particular styles
• Printing cost
• Embroidery cost
• Wash cost
• Trims cost(Zipper, button, Label, Tape etc)
• Accessories cost (Tag pin, Hanger, Price Ticket, Hang Tag etc)
• Traveling cost

 Now the thing is that how will you get those things to make a cost sheet. For fabric consumption you can follow the consumption formulas to find out how many fabrics are required for a garment and the measurement you will get from the techpack given by buyer. Now for CM you can get assist from your manager of higher management to get a effective CM. For wash cost please see the costing manual given by buyer and for printing and embroidery will depend on styles. For trims and accessories you must follow the BOM (Bill Of Materials) given by buyer for a specific style. I am sharing a BOM with you to know well.

BOM(Bill of Materials)

Now you required a costing sheet or format where you put the item name and values to get the final FOB of a style.A well decorated cost sheet makes the job easier and faster.If you use a cost sheet there is a less chance to miss any particular costing heads when you are in hurry. Many times it is needed to know how we reach to the final FOB. A well designed cost sheet will help you trace all details of costing. Cost sheet will also gives cost break up for future reference.

If you have product technical sheet then you can calculate the exact fabric consumption of a garment. Average fabric consumption also depends on nature of the fabric, like tubular or open width fabric. Whether fabric is solid colored, check or stripe or any specific design repeat required. 

Knit Garments Costing Sheet Format:

 Woven Garments Costing Sheet Format:

 

 If anyone needs to get the excel format please mil me on fkweb24@gmail.com as well.

Garemnt Costing Procedure | Details of Garment Costing | Woven and Knit Garment Cost Sheet

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Costing is very important for getting an order as well as it focuses the future trends of any industry. To make a effective, profitable and competitive cost sheet one must know about all the processes involves in garments manufacturing very well. All the updated news and costs of fabric, CM of particular garments, trims, wash cost, embroidery cost, traveling cost, terms of payments must be known. Merchandiser is the key person who is responsible for the costing of any item. Now the world is becoming more competitive for garments market and manufacturing as well. So a competitive cost sheet of any item affect the growth of any company.While the industry recorded a remarkable growth in a protected market environment, it faces a series of challenges that have come to the fore in the post-quota situation, notably in areas such as:

• Price competitiveness.
• Faster lead times.
• High raw material base.
• Full service offering.
• Access to market. "A Cost is the value of economic resources used as a result of producing or doing the things costed".

Garments costing is effectively dependent on the fabrication. We all know that there are main two types of garments are available, knit and woven. Fabric consumption is one of the main element of garments costing. You can save much with doing better fabric consumption for both woven and knit. Woven fabrics are generally calculated in yards and knit fabrics are in kgs.

Woven Garments Consumption Calculation in Details

Knit Garments Consumption Calculation in Details

The basic requirements of garments costing are-

• Fabric Consumption
• CM of  particular styles
• Printing cost
• Embroidery cost
• Wash cost
• Trims cost(Zipper, button, Label, Tape etc)
• Accessories cost (Tag pin, Hanger, Price Ticket, Hang Tag etc)
• Traveling cost

 Now the thing is that how will you get those things to make a cost sheet. For fabric consumption you can follow the consumption formulas to find out how many fabrics are required for a garment and the measurement you will get from the techpack given by buyer. Now for CM you can get assist from your manager of higher management to get a effective CM. For wash cost please see the costing manual given by buyer and for printing and embroidery will depend on styles. For trims and accessories you must follow the BOM (Bill Of Materials) given by buyer for a specific style. I am sharing a BOM with you to know well.

BOM(Bill of Materials)

Now you required a costing sheet or format where you put the item name and values to get the final FOB of a style.A well decorated cost sheet makes the job easier and faster.If you use a cost sheet there is a less chance to miss any particular costing heads when you are in hurry. Many times it is needed to know how we reach to the final FOB. A well designed cost sheet will help you trace all details of costing. Cost sheet will also gives cost break up for future reference.

If you have product technical sheet then you can calculate the exact fabric consumption of a garment. Average fabric consumption also depends on nature of the fabric, like tubular or open width fabric. Whether fabric is solid colored, check or stripe or any specific design repeat required. 

Knit Garments Costing Sheet Format:

 Woven Garments Costing Sheet Format:

 

 If anyone needs to get the excel format please mil me on fkweb24@gmail.com as well.

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Fabric Consumption Formula for Woven Garments | Woven Shirt and Pant Consumption Calculation

Fabric of any garment contains most values for their prices and consumption. To make a garment fabric cost is almost 50% other than all cost. For any given FOB price the price of the fabric contain significant role. Wastage of fabric is affected the garments cost other than all costs, so consumption of fabric should be more or less similar to the actual requirement of fabric to make any garment. Simply consumption shows how many fabric is required to make garment. To get more accuracy of any consumption merchandisers should follow the actual marker considering all the sizes that we can get from CAD. Sometimes we need consumption to give quick costing of any style to the respective buyers. Due to this reason we need just a concept that how many fabric we might be required for the garment. If you have to do this then you can follow the below rules it will help you. Knit Fabric Consumption for making T-Shirt or Trouser we have already discussed and now only the woven part.
 

Consumption Formula for Woven Shirt:

 Some Measurements of any shirt-

Collar- 16"
Chest - 48"
CBL -  31"
HPS - 32.5"
Across Back - 21"
SL - 35"
Arm Hole - 21"
Yoke Height - 5"
Cuff - 9"

Cut able Fabric Width - 44"

Fabric Required for Body Portion-

Length = 32.5" + 5"(yoke) + 3.5" (Al) = 41"
Width = 48"+ 5" (Al) = 53"

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (42" x 53" x 12) / (44" x 36")
=17.25 yards/dz

Fabric Required for Sleeve Portion-

Length = 24" + 3"(Al) = 27" (Sleeve length will be deduct from from half across back length because here sleeve length have been given from HPS)
Width = 21"+ 1" (Al) = 22"

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (27" x 22" x 12 x 2 ) / (44" x 36")
=9.42 yards/dz

Total Fabric Requirement =   (17.25 + 9.42) yards/dz = 26.75 yards/dz
If fabric wastage percent is 5%

The total fabric requirement = 26.75 + 1.3 = 28.05 yards/dz

Consumption Formula for Woven Pant:

 

 
Some Measurement

Waist - 35"
Outseam - 42"
Inseam - 3o"
Thigh - 26"
Hip - 44"
Bottom Opening - 18"


Fabric cut able width - 56"

Length = 42" + 2"(Waist Band Height) + 3"(Al) = 45"
(I have considered out seam for length but you can consider inseam along with backrise length and waistband length for total length)

Width = 26"+ 3" (Al) = 29" (In case of 1/2 thigh circular the formula will be multiplied by 4)

Fabric required for making one dz pant

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
 = (45" x 29" x 12) / (56" x 36")
=15.88 yards/dz
= consider as 16 yards/dz
Considering 5% wastage
= 16+0.8 yards/dz
=16.8 yards/dz


Dear readers,
If you have any query please send a mail i will really happy if i can solve your problem as well.

Fabric Consumption Formula for Woven Garments | Woven Shirt and Pant Consumption Calculation

No comments

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Fabric of any garment contains most values for their prices and consumption. To make a garment fabric cost is almost 50% other than all cost. For any given FOB price the price of the fabric contain significant role. Wastage of fabric is affected the garments cost other than all costs, so consumption of fabric should be more or less similar to the actual requirement of fabric to make any garment. Simply consumption shows how many fabric is required to make garment. To get more accuracy of any consumption merchandisers should follow the actual marker considering all the sizes that we can get from CAD. Sometimes we need consumption to give quick costing of any style to the respective buyers. Due to this reason we need just a concept that how many fabric we might be required for the garment. If you have to do this then you can follow the below rules it will help you. Knit Fabric Consumption for making T-Shirt or Trouser we have already discussed and now only the woven part.
 

Consumption Formula for Woven Shirt:

 Some Measurements of any shirt-

Collar- 16"
Chest - 48"
CBL -  31"
HPS - 32.5"
Across Back - 21"
SL - 35"
Arm Hole - 21"
Yoke Height - 5"
Cuff - 9"

Cut able Fabric Width - 44"

Fabric Required for Body Portion-

Length = 32.5" + 5"(yoke) + 3.5" (Al) = 41"
Width = 48"+ 5" (Al) = 53"

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (42" x 53" x 12) / (44" x 36")
=17.25 yards/dz

Fabric Required for Sleeve Portion-

Length = 24" + 3"(Al) = 27" (Sleeve length will be deduct from from half across back length because here sleeve length have been given from HPS)
Width = 21"+ 1" (Al) = 22"

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (27" x 22" x 12 x 2 ) / (44" x 36")
=9.42 yards/dz

Total Fabric Requirement =   (17.25 + 9.42) yards/dz = 26.75 yards/dz
If fabric wastage percent is 5%

The total fabric requirement = 26.75 + 1.3 = 28.05 yards/dz

Consumption Formula for Woven Pant:

 

 
Some Measurement

Waist - 35"
Outseam - 42"
Inseam - 3o"
Thigh - 26"
Hip - 44"
Bottom Opening - 18"


Fabric cut able width - 56"

Length = 42" + 2"(Waist Band Height) + 3"(Al) = 45"
(I have considered out seam for length but you can consider inseam along with backrise length and waistband length for total length)

Width = 26"+ 3" (Al) = 29" (In case of 1/2 thigh circular the formula will be multiplied by 4)

Fabric required for making one dz pant

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
 = (45" x 29" x 12) / (56" x 36")
=15.88 yards/dz
= consider as 16 yards/dz
Considering 5% wastage
= 16+0.8 yards/dz
=16.8 yards/dz


Dear readers,
If you have any query please send a mail i will really happy if i can solve your problem as well.

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Garments Merchandising | Day to Day Job Responsibilities of A Buying House and A Factory Merchandiser

Apparel or Garments Merchandising: Merchandising is generally related to trading where buying and selling is done. Apparel merchandising is related to the entire task related with buyer, suppliers even with factory itself. Further it means the day to day correspondence with buyers for price negotiation, order confirmation, any other approval and updates as well, on the other hand correspondence with suppliers to place orders, follow up with them to get the timely delivery and also to make the payment. It is also related with production planning team, garments production team, washing team and commercial or C&F agents as well. Co-ordination with shipping and documentation department for forwarding the approved shipment and finally keeping track of style status and updating the same to top management and buyer representatives.

Apparel Merchandiser: The person who is responsible to, negotiating to, corresponding to and managing to buyer, suppliers as well as factory people to ship the garments smoothly is known as apparel merchandiser. This is the basic concept of merchandising but the activities and responsibilities of a merchandiser depend on his work place, buyer and vendor rules or regulations.

There are different types of merchandisers available in apparel manufacturing section where job responsibilities may of different.

• Production Merchandiser
• Factory Merchandiser
• Buying Office Merchandiser (Trading and Liaison office)
• Procurement Merchandiser
• Fabric Merchandiser

Production Merchandising covers all the area of merchandising except buying or fashion house merchandising.

Key Responsibilities and Activities of a Production/Factory Merchandiser:

i.    An order starts through sample development where merchandiser is responsible to develop the product/garment according to BOM (Bill of Materials) and GSS (Garment Specification Sheet) along with measurement chart sent by buyer.

ii.    Buyer will make comment on development sample whereby they need to change at any section such as fabrication, styling or measurement or any trims where merchandiser will responsible to follow the same and implement them to next sampling.

iii.    Now buyer will ask for costing incorporating with fabric cost, trim cost, CM & wash cost, embroidery cost as well as print cost and the concern merchant will give the same.

iv.    After getting confirmation of an order, merchandiser will book all the raw materials and trims covering this style where fabric will be booked first.

v.    Making production Time and action calendar - based on the process flow of order merchants prepare time and action calendar and indicates who is responsible for the task. This helps merchant to execute an order whether it is on time or behind schedule. Merchants chase department who are running late.

vi.    Handover the Bill of material to sourcing department - Based on tech pack (technical sheet), merchant prepares material requirement sheet. In some cases, merchants develop and purchase few trim by themselves.

vii.    Execution of sourcing trims / accessories - merchants do follow up with supplier for the raw material.

viii.    Preparing production file - Prepares production file with details documents, approvals, samples and swatches and comments on sample from buyer.

ix.     Conduct PP meeting with quality team and production team - merchants conduct pre-production (PP) meeting with production team and quality team. In this meeting merchants discuss style construction details, production plan, PCD and handover production file to the production team. One copy of production file is also made for quality team.

x.    Giving approval of printing, embroidery production and other subcontracting work.

xi.    Execution of orders whether it is running on time.

xii.    Coordination with buyer or buying house if any clarification is required during production.

xiii.    Giving clarification to production and quality team if required related to style workmanship/trims etc.

xiv.    Coordinating with buying house QA or 3rd Party QA for initial/mid and final inspection of shipment.

xv.    Coordination with shipping and documentation department for forwarding the approved shipment.

xvi.    Keeping track of style status and updating the same to top management and buyer representatives.  

Day to Day Job Responsibilities of a Buying Office Merchandiser:

i.    Communicating with buyers by mail (mostly) for new queries as well as updates

ii.    Meeting with vendors and explaining new development requirement to vendor team

iii.    Planning for new season sampling and production orders 

iv.    Collecting of garment samples, trims and different types of swatches from the vendors 

v.    Submission of samples to buyer through courier 

vi.    Follow up with vendors for samples 

vii.    Follow up with buyers for approvals and feedback 

 

viii.    Giving approval on samples where buyer intervention is not required 

ix.    Updating latest comments on particular styles or order to vendor representative 

x.    Update the buyers with the order status at all stages 

xi.    Execution of running orders (production) 

xii.    Visit to vendor site 

xiii.    Sourcing of materials for new development 

xiv.    Preparation of material requirement 

xv.    Selection and finalizing of vendors for the upcoming orders based on vendor’s experience of making similar products 

xvi.    Preparing Purchase order 

xvii.    Costing and negotiation with trim & accessory suppliers 

xviii.    Handle quality issues for sampling as well as production 

xix.    Preparing inspection schedule for shipment and notifying to quality department in the buying house or third party QA. 

xx.    Maintaining files and Accounts 

xxi.    Updating Time and Action calendar

Sampling

The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his organization only by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and with optimum quality. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk orders and also give some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling only the exporter can optimize the processing parameters for bulk production, which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks. All these works are carried out by the sampling department, which us led by a sampling in charge.

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent t 0 the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

• Date
• Style No
• Attention Person
• Color
• Fabric
• Composition
• Description
• Quantity
• Size
• Store

There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as the merchandiser is the person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this sampling department will work under the supervision of merchandising department. Also as the samples are to be made according to the buyers’ price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise sampling department suitably.

Work Flowchart of Sampling

The Common Types of Samples Used in Apparel Making are mentioned below-

• Proto Sample
• Development Sample
• Salesmen samples or promotional samples
• Fit samples
• Size Set Samples
• Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples
• Wash test/Lab test samples
• Fashion show samples
• Shade Band Samples
• Pre-production samples
• Tag/Sealer Sample
• Production samples
• Shipment samples

Garments Merchandising | Day to Day Job Responsibilities of A Buying House and A Factory Merchandiser

No comments

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Apparel or Garments Merchandising: Merchandising is generally related to trading where buying and selling is done. Apparel merchandising is related to the entire task related with buyer, suppliers even with factory itself. Further it means the day to day correspondence with buyers for price negotiation, order confirmation, any other approval and updates as well, on the other hand correspondence with suppliers to place orders, follow up with them to get the timely delivery and also to make the payment. It is also related with production planning team, garments production team, washing team and commercial or C&F agents as well. Co-ordination with shipping and documentation department for forwarding the approved shipment and finally keeping track of style status and updating the same to top management and buyer representatives.

Apparel Merchandiser: The person who is responsible to, negotiating to, corresponding to and managing to buyer, suppliers as well as factory people to ship the garments smoothly is known as apparel merchandiser. This is the basic concept of merchandising but the activities and responsibilities of a merchandiser depend on his work place, buyer and vendor rules or regulations.

There are different types of merchandisers available in apparel manufacturing section where job responsibilities may of different.

• Production Merchandiser
• Factory Merchandiser
• Buying Office Merchandiser (Trading and Liaison office)
• Procurement Merchandiser
• Fabric Merchandiser

Production Merchandising covers all the area of merchandising except buying or fashion house merchandising.

Key Responsibilities and Activities of a Production/Factory Merchandiser:

i.    An order starts through sample development where merchandiser is responsible to develop the product/garment according to BOM (Bill of Materials) and GSS (Garment Specification Sheet) along with measurement chart sent by buyer.

ii.    Buyer will make comment on development sample whereby they need to change at any section such as fabrication, styling or measurement or any trims where merchandiser will responsible to follow the same and implement them to next sampling.

iii.    Now buyer will ask for costing incorporating with fabric cost, trim cost, CM & wash cost, embroidery cost as well as print cost and the concern merchant will give the same.

iv.    After getting confirmation of an order, merchandiser will book all the raw materials and trims covering this style where fabric will be booked first.

v.    Making production Time and action calendar - based on the process flow of order merchants prepare time and action calendar and indicates who is responsible for the task. This helps merchant to execute an order whether it is on time or behind schedule. Merchants chase department who are running late.

vi.    Handover the Bill of material to sourcing department - Based on tech pack (technical sheet), merchant prepares material requirement sheet. In some cases, merchants develop and purchase few trim by themselves.

vii.    Execution of sourcing trims / accessories - merchants do follow up with supplier for the raw material.

viii.    Preparing production file - Prepares production file with details documents, approvals, samples and swatches and comments on sample from buyer.

ix.     Conduct PP meeting with quality team and production team - merchants conduct pre-production (PP) meeting with production team and quality team. In this meeting merchants discuss style construction details, production plan, PCD and handover production file to the production team. One copy of production file is also made for quality team.

x.    Giving approval of printing, embroidery production and other subcontracting work.

xi.    Execution of orders whether it is running on time.

xii.    Coordination with buyer or buying house if any clarification is required during production.

xiii.    Giving clarification to production and quality team if required related to style workmanship/trims etc.

xiv.    Coordinating with buying house QA or 3rd Party QA for initial/mid and final inspection of shipment.

xv.    Coordination with shipping and documentation department for forwarding the approved shipment.

xvi.    Keeping track of style status and updating the same to top management and buyer representatives.  

Day to Day Job Responsibilities of a Buying Office Merchandiser:

i.    Communicating with buyers by mail (mostly) for new queries as well as updates

ii.    Meeting with vendors and explaining new development requirement to vendor team

iii.    Planning for new season sampling and production orders 

iv.    Collecting of garment samples, trims and different types of swatches from the vendors 

v.    Submission of samples to buyer through courier 

vi.    Follow up with vendors for samples 

vii.    Follow up with buyers for approvals and feedback 

 

viii.    Giving approval on samples where buyer intervention is not required 

ix.    Updating latest comments on particular styles or order to vendor representative 

x.    Update the buyers with the order status at all stages 

xi.    Execution of running orders (production) 

xii.    Visit to vendor site 

xiii.    Sourcing of materials for new development 

xiv.    Preparation of material requirement 

xv.    Selection and finalizing of vendors for the upcoming orders based on vendor’s experience of making similar products 

xvi.    Preparing Purchase order 

xvii.    Costing and negotiation with trim & accessory suppliers 

xviii.    Handle quality issues for sampling as well as production 

xix.    Preparing inspection schedule for shipment and notifying to quality department in the buying house or third party QA. 

xx.    Maintaining files and Accounts 

xxi.    Updating Time and Action calendar

Sampling

The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his organization only by the samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the order. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and with optimum quality. The purpose of sampling is not only to get bulk orders and also give some additional benefits to the exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can estimate the yarn consumption for developing the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing difficulties. Besides by doing sampling only the exporter can optimize the processing parameters for bulk production, which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks. All these works are carried out by the sampling department, which us led by a sampling in charge.

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent t 0 the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

• Date
• Style No
• Attention Person
• Color
• Fabric
• Composition
• Description
• Quantity
• Size
• Store

There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as the merchandiser is the person who is interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this sampling department will work under the supervision of merchandising department. Also as the samples are to be made according to the buyers’ price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise sampling department suitably.

Work Flowchart of Sampling

The Common Types of Samples Used in Apparel Making are mentioned below-

• Proto Sample
• Development Sample
• Salesmen samples or promotional samples
• Fit samples
• Size Set Samples
• Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples
• Wash test/Lab test samples
• Fashion show samples
• Shade Band Samples
• Pre-production samples
• Tag/Sealer Sample
• Production samples
• Shipment samples

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Samples of Garments | Sampling Types & Procedures Before Bulk Production

Sample is very important for garments industry either to buyer or to vendors/factory. Sampling is a very common step must be conducted by each factory through the instruction of buyer, it is done  from development stage to go through bulk production. Sample type and significant characteristics of different samples depend on buyer. I am sharing most of the samples what I have known.

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Proto Sample: This type of sample is made at the development stage when just pattern has been developed on the basis of tech pach or PDM. Buyers sometimes want this type of sample before development sample where measurement of all points would be in tolerance. If you consider it for denim there wash will not be affected significantly.

Development Sample: Buyers first time give tech pach or PDM to vendors just for making pattern and samples as per sketch. Sometimes it is called LA sample. Buyers just need to review the style or the design to make changes in this sample where fabric will actual but other trims may not be actual.

Fit Sample: All most every buyer want this sample where measurement is the key feature which will be in tolerance according to the measurement sheet given by buyer just attached with tech pach. In some cases fit sample require 100% measurement along with perfect wash in case of denim. Sometimes this type of samples are called as photo sample.

Wash Sample: Wash samples are very important for denim garments. Buyers send wash target to follow in washing and submit accurately as much as possible. Some times wash samples are to be taken as PP(Pre-Production) sample but there every trims would be actual. Measurement is not so important for wash samples.

Size Set Sample: After approval of fit sample, size set sample is required by buyer. Indeed, this type of sample requires when any significant correction is necessary on fit sample. Before bulk production this is used as final for measurement and styling issue. Some buyers might suggest for other two types of sample after size set, they are Reference sample & Sealer sample(For Bulk Production).

GPT/Lab Test Sample: Garments Performance/Package Test(GPT) or lab test sample is very important for each buyer as well as vendors. Third party testing company tests this sample and give a test report where product harmful chemical, safety issue and compliance issue is maintained. To know more about test sample you can go to GPT, FPT, GCR sample of Apparel.

Pre-Production (PP) Sample: PP is the final most important and mandatory sample in case of all styles. All kinds of buyer follow this sample for bulk production. Before PP, all the samples mentioned above this post would be passed by the review of buyer. If any comment receive from buyer to the above samples you should be aware to rectify it in PP by following the comments. PP sample is basically used for all kinds of actual trims approval, wash or dye approval, styling or aesthetic look final approval. If buyer approves it without any comment, you will not have any problem to go through bulk production.

Shade Band Sample: Shade band is very important to go through bulk. In case of denim, it bears highly importance in washing where main bulk will go through following shade band sample. After approval of wash sample and PP, factory submit shade band in between these two types of sample. Fabric comes from supplier with different shades where shade band will help the factory to submit shade band based on shade of bulk fabric. Normally 5-7 shades categorized by available shade of fabric wash, then submit to buyer for approval.

AD sample/Salesman Sample: AD or advertisement sample and salesman sample are same, required for definite showrooms of buyers. Before bulk production ad sample is asked by buyer for a campaign to their store as well as showrooms to give up an update to customers what they are launching in the next season. Buyers may be asked for different sizes and colors for this sample. During bulk factory may send it to buyer's specific destination as well.

TOP sample: Top of Production is the another important sample received by buyer from bulk of any style. Buyer's QA will choose this type of sample randomly from bulk production and send them to buyer for reviewing and aware of the bulk production. Normally, before TOP sample approval comments, vendor could not ship the goods. It might be called shipment sample as well.

Besides these samples, there are too many samples are made based on requirement of buyers and styles. Some other samples are sealer sample, pull out sample, formaldehyde test sample, gold/yellow tag sample, counter sample etc.

Mock Up: Buyers frequently ask for mock up sample. Mock up is the piece of sample where a definite part of any full garment used for thread approval or wash approval or embroidery approval. To reduce time and cost sometimes buyers work on this.

Samples of Garments | Sampling Types & Procedures Before Bulk Production

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Sample is very important for garments industry either to buyer or to vendors/factory. Sampling is a very common step must be conducted by each factory through the instruction of buyer, it is done  from development stage to go through bulk production. Sample type and significant characteristics of different samples depend on buyer. I am sharing most of the samples what I have known.

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Proto Sample: This type of sample is made at the development stage when just pattern has been developed on the basis of tech pach or PDM. Buyers sometimes want this type of sample before development sample where measurement of all points would be in tolerance. If you consider it for denim there wash will not be affected significantly.

Development Sample: Buyers first time give tech pach or PDM to vendors just for making pattern and samples as per sketch. Sometimes it is called LA sample. Buyers just need to review the style or the design to make changes in this sample where fabric will actual but other trims may not be actual.

Fit Sample: All most every buyer want this sample where measurement is the key feature which will be in tolerance according to the measurement sheet given by buyer just attached with tech pach. In some cases fit sample require 100% measurement along with perfect wash in case of denim. Sometimes this type of samples are called as photo sample.

Wash Sample: Wash samples are very important for denim garments. Buyers send wash target to follow in washing and submit accurately as much as possible. Some times wash samples are to be taken as PP(Pre-Production) sample but there every trims would be actual. Measurement is not so important for wash samples.

Size Set Sample: After approval of fit sample, size set sample is required by buyer. Indeed, this type of sample requires when any significant correction is necessary on fit sample. Before bulk production this is used as final for measurement and styling issue. Some buyers might suggest for other two types of sample after size set, they are Reference sample & Sealer sample(For Bulk Production).

GPT/Lab Test Sample: Garments Performance/Package Test(GPT) or lab test sample is very important for each buyer as well as vendors. Third party testing company tests this sample and give a test report where product harmful chemical, safety issue and compliance issue is maintained. To know more about test sample you can go to GPT, FPT, GCR sample of Apparel.

Pre-Production (PP) Sample: PP is the final most important and mandatory sample in case of all styles. All kinds of buyer follow this sample for bulk production. Before PP, all the samples mentioned above this post would be passed by the review of buyer. If any comment receive from buyer to the above samples you should be aware to rectify it in PP by following the comments. PP sample is basically used for all kinds of actual trims approval, wash or dye approval, styling or aesthetic look final approval. If buyer approves it without any comment, you will not have any problem to go through bulk production.

Shade Band Sample: Shade band is very important to go through bulk. In case of denim, it bears highly importance in washing where main bulk will go through following shade band sample. After approval of wash sample and PP, factory submit shade band in between these two types of sample. Fabric comes from supplier with different shades where shade band will help the factory to submit shade band based on shade of bulk fabric. Normally 5-7 shades categorized by available shade of fabric wash, then submit to buyer for approval.

AD sample/Salesman Sample: AD or advertisement sample and salesman sample are same, required for definite showrooms of buyers. Before bulk production ad sample is asked by buyer for a campaign to their store as well as showrooms to give up an update to customers what they are launching in the next season. Buyers may be asked for different sizes and colors for this sample. During bulk factory may send it to buyer's specific destination as well.

TOP sample: Top of Production is the another important sample received by buyer from bulk of any style. Buyer's QA will choose this type of sample randomly from bulk production and send them to buyer for reviewing and aware of the bulk production. Normally, before TOP sample approval comments, vendor could not ship the goods. It might be called shipment sample as well.

Besides these samples, there are too many samples are made based on requirement of buyers and styles. Some other samples are sealer sample, pull out sample, formaldehyde test sample, gold/yellow tag sample, counter sample etc.

Mock Up: Buyers frequently ask for mock up sample. Mock up is the piece of sample where a definite part of any full garment used for thread approval or wash approval or embroidery approval. To reduce time and cost sometimes buyers work on this.

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