Textile Fiber, Yarn Spinning, Woven and Knit Fabric, Dyeing, Garments Merchandising

Three types of basic fabrics are available in world market according to weave and design. They are Plain, Twill & Satin. Plain weave is used to make shirting, suiting as well as dress fabrics. Twill weave has many derivatives where diagonal line contains a special character of twill. Twill weave is used to make a wide variety of commercial fabrics used for jeans, heavy garments, pants as well as jacket type cloths. For fancy fabric satin weave is widely used.

Cambric: it is a finest, more densely woven plain weave fabric with stiff nature at the face. This light weight fabric is made with cotton or linen. Crispy is another character of this fabric thus it is used to women and children wear where crispy is required. Also used for linen, shirting, lace and needlework.

Chiffon: It is a light weight plain weave fabric made from cotton, silk and synthetic rayon as well as polyester. Very hard twisted yarns as alternate S or Z twist crepe yarns are used to produce this fabric. Under reviewing with a magnifying glass it resembles as net with mesh of fine yarns. It can be dyed easily but polyester made chiffon cannot be dyed. These fabrics are used for women wears widely.

Corduroy: This is woven fabric like as twill weave containing special character as cord effect. It is cut pile fabric available in solid color. The fabric looks as if it is made from multiple cords laid parallel to each other and then stitched together. These are made from tufted twisted yarns and more durable fabric thus it is used for pant, shirt, jacket as well as jeans wear.

Crepe: It is a hard spun silk fabric is originally characterized by a crinkle, puckered surface formed by highly twisted yarns in the warp or weft or both. By using ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also be produced. Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe effect finish. It is used for sarees, shirts, women and children's dresses.

Denim: Traditionally denim is woven fabric of 2/1 or 3/1 right hand twill. The warp yarns are dyed and filling or weft remains white. Normally warps are dyed with indigo color widely used for blue jeans but there are others colored denims are produced as maroon, green and brown. It is very tightly woven, strong & durable fabric normally made with higher count containing yarns. Open ended yarns are frequently used for denim fabric making as well as ring spun yarns are used in a wide range. Denim is used for making blue jeans very widely as well as trousers, jackets, shirts etc.

Different Types of Woven Fabrics | Commecial Name of Woven Fabrics

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Garments making runs through numerous processes, procedures and planning with executing them properly. Taking an order from buyer till shipment a merchandiser, production team, wash team and commercial team as well as management have to work on a systematic way. The procedures you will have to follow depend on your factory policy as well as buyer requirements. The common procedures for making garments can follow the bellow process sequence as reference.

Garments Manufacturing Flow Chart | Apparel Making Flow Chart

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In cutting section we frequently found troublesome to detect fabric face as well as back side properly. When the fabric roll does not contain any mark or specifucation as face or back we face this difficulties. The bellow understanding will help someone to detect the woven fabric face side more easily and precisely.

General Methods You can Apply to Detect a Fabric Face or Back

Brushed or peach fabric the face side is generally peached or brushed.
Face side of a fabric will be clearer and softer than the back side.
Fabric of textured yarn the texture will be more visible in the face side.
Diagonal lines of twill fabrics will be more visible on the face side of the fabric.
Fabrics with fancy design have smoother weaves on the face side.
Cloths with color are usually brighter on the face
Cords are more pronounced on the face
Sateen fabric show face by weft on top
In case of Satins warp on top
Dobby fabrics and brocades have the pattern more prominent on the face
Pile fabric with brilliant color on top
Pile fabric with more pile on the face

When getting fabric roll from suppliers we can easily determine the face side through the bellow methods:

Denim fabric shows colored yarns on top or face
Face side of single-layer roll is fabric face side.
Inside face of double-plied roll is fabric face side
Side with printed trade mark at both ends is fabric face
Upper side of printed letter on the selvage
If selvage contains stentering holes, more regularly shows face

Determining of Woven Fabric Face and Back Side

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Brushed or peach fabric the face side is generally peached or brushed.
Face side of a fabric will be clearer and softer than the back side.
Fabric of textured yarn the texture will be more visible in the face side.
Diagonal lines of twill fabrics will be more visible on the face side of the fabric.
Fabrics with fancy design have smoother weaves on the face side.
Cloths with color are usually brighter on the face
Cords are more pronounced on the face
Sateen fabric show face by weft on top
In case of Satins warp on top
Dobby fabrics and brocades have the pattern more prominent on the face
Pile fabric with brilliant color on top
Pile fabric with more pile on the face

When getting fabric roll from suppliers we can easily determine the face side through the bellow methods:

Denim fabric shows colored yarns on top or face
Face side of single-layer roll is fabric face side.
Inside face of double-plied roll is fabric face side
Side with printed trade mark at both ends is fabric face
Upper side of printed letter on the selvage
If selvage contains stentering holes, more regularly shows face

Merchandising is the department through which procedures are planned, developed, executed and presented to the buyer. From start to finish a order whole job is directing, planning and observing by a merchandiser.

Key responsibilities for a merchandiser:

Contact with buyer to get TP or PDM
Garment development
Market analysis
Costing
Delivery confirmation from buyer (delivery mode)
Sampling
Booking orders
Fabric and trims booking
L/C or commercial other terms follow up
Payment follow up
Lab dips (if required)
Request for management for production line, wash, print and embroidery allocation
Advising, directing and assisting production
Advising quality department about quality level
Mediating production and quality departments
Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
Helping documentation department
Taking responsibility for inspections and
Following up the shipment

Merchandising Job Procedure:

The Short Terms Used Here Are:

TP - Tech Pack (Technical Package)
PDM - Product Development Manual
CAD - Computer Aided Design (Pattern & Marker making)
IED - Industrial Engineering Department
PCD - Plan Cut Date (Fabric cutting date on bulk production)
GSD - General Sewing Data
ERP - Enterprise Resource Planning

General Procedures for Garment Merchandising - Responsibilities of an Apparel Merchandiser

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Contact with buyer to get TP or PDM
Garment development
Market analysis
Costing
Delivery confirmation from buyer (delivery mode)
Sampling
Booking orders
Fabric and trims booking
L/C or commercial other terms follow up
Payment follow up
Lab dips (if required)
Request for management for production line, wash, print and embroidery allocation
Advising, directing and assisting production
Advising quality department about quality level
Mediating production and quality departments
Giving shipping instructions and following shipping,
Helping documentation department
Taking responsibility for inspections and
Following up the shipment

Merchandising Job Procedure:

GSM is the short form of Grams per Square Meter. GSM is the very most important thing which defines the weight of the fabrics of knit garments.

Garment price and quality based on many things like GSM, fabric quality, colors, finishing, prints, embroidery, style, etc. But GSM is the most important thing to be decided when confirming the prices between the sellers and buyers.

If we have fabrics, then we don’t have any problem in finding GSM, as we can cut any dimension to find GSM. But most of the times, we will have only the garments to find GSM. And we will have to keep the garment for style, making and other references. So we will be allowed to cut a small bit from the garments. Hence nowadays, round cutters are used. This system is used worldwide. With the help of this round cutter, the fabric will be cut into a small bit.

Then the GSM of the fabric can be found out by multiplying the weight of this round bit by 100. This round bit is to be weighed in an electronic scale with milligram accuracy. As this bit is very small and as the weight has to be multiplied by 100, the fabric has to be cut very sharply to get the exact GSM. Hence the blades of this round cutter are to be sharp and new to get the exact GSM.

Now we will measure GSM in general procedure (In case of woven garment it is frequently used)

GSM is the weight of 1meter x 1meter fabric. It means 100cm x 100cm = 10,000 sq.cms. It can be found out by any one of the below ways.

·         By the weight of 100cm x 100cm fabric bit.

·         By the weight of 50cm x 50cm fabric bit multiplied by 4.

·         By the weight of 25cm x 25cm fabric bit multiplied by 16.

·         By the weight of 10cm x 10cm fabric bit multiplied by 100.

We must be aware that if we use the smaller size bit, accurate GSM can not be achieved. The bigger size of fabric bit is better used to get exact or closer GSM.

Measuring GSM of Fabric Without GSM Cutter | Woven Fabric GSM Measurement

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In case of larger amount importation L/C is used. It is a costly process than TT.

An irrevocable Letter of Credit is also an often used payment method. It is often referred to an L/C. Letters of Credit are formal payment methods that offer a lot of protection to the parties.

Simply put, a letter of credit is a letter written by the importer's bank to the exporter. It verifies that the payment will be guaranteed when the bank is presented with the concrete documents (bill of loading, and freight documents). Most letters of credit are "irrevocable" once the importer has had them sent.

A letter of credit usually includes applicant (you, the importer), beneficiary, opening bank, negotiating bank, specification and quantity of the goods, amount of money, loading port and destination port, shipment date, the validity date of the L/C, terms and conditions agreed by both the importer and seller, and the documents required by the importers (bill of loading, commercial invoice, packing list, insurance certificate, etc.)

L/C payment terms procedures:

a. You (the importer) applies to open the L/C to us (the seller) through a bank who can open the L/C in your country.

b. The opening bank will inform The Bank of Seller that the L/C has been opened.

c. The Bank of Seller will inform us that the L/C has been established.

d. Seller will check all the terms and conditions listed in the L/C. If all terms and conditions are acceptable, They'll arrange the shipment within the time specified in the L/C.

e. After the goods are loaded onto the ship without any damage, the captain will issue the clean bill of lading to seller.

f. They will submit the clean bill of loading and other relevant documents to The Bank of seller to gather the payment. Only with clean bill of loading can you claim the ownership of the goods.

g. The Bank of seller will send the clean bill of lading and relevant documents to your bank (the opening bank).

h. The opening bank will inform you that all documents are received.

i. You will go to the bank to make the payment to get the clean bill of loading and relevant documents.

j. With all of these documents, you can clear the import Customs and pick up the goods after the goods arrive on the destination sea port.

L/C Payment Procedures for Fabric Importation-Woven Garment Merchandising