Textile Printing | Fabric or Garment Printing Technology

PRINTING: Textile Printing denotes the formation of colored designs on the surface of the textile fabrics with a miniature of printing paste by using different style or methods. It is also called a specific area dyeing arrangement. It gives a multicolor design over the fabrics. It is an art where designs are developed on the surface of the fabric with using thickener combined with dyestuffs.

Printing Coverage: It means how many portions are designed to colorful with remaining others in white. Such as 80% printing coverage means, the process through which 80% of a fabric are printed with different dyestuffs by different printing style or method.

Style of Printing: Style refers to the manner by which particular action is performed. It is totally a chemical process where chemical and dyestuffs are mainly responsible to produce a design.

Style of printing means the manner by which a printed effect is produced without any mechanical means only using dye paste in different way.

Types of Style of printing

• Direct Style
• Dyed style
• Discharge style
• Resist/Reserve style
• Azo color style
• Metal/Bronze style
• Flock style

Methods of printing: These are the procedures by which printing is designed on to fabrics. Different types of printing method mentioned at below-

• Block printing
• Flat printing
• Stencil printing
• Screen printing
• Roller printing
• Transfer printing
• Flock printing

Thickener: It is the vital component for making printing paste. It is used in textile printing and high molecular weight compound giving viscous paste in water. They impart stickiness and plasticity to the printing paste so that it can be applied in fabric surface without spreading. Printing paste contains up to 80% of thickener.

Textile Printing | Fabric or Garment Printing Technology

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PRINTING: Textile Printing denotes the formation of colored designs on the surface of the textile fabrics with a miniature of printing paste by using different style or methods. It is also called a specific area dyeing arrangement. It gives a multicolor design over the fabrics. It is an art where designs are developed on the surface of the fabric with using thickener combined with dyestuffs.

Printing Coverage: It means how many portions are designed to colorful with remaining others in white. Such as 80% printing coverage means, the process through which 80% of a fabric are printed with different dyestuffs by different printing style or method.

Style of Printing: Style refers to the manner by which particular action is performed. It is totally a chemical process where chemical and dyestuffs are mainly responsible to produce a design.

Style of printing means the manner by which a printed effect is produced without any mechanical means only using dye paste in different way.

Types of Style of printing

• Direct Style
• Dyed style
• Discharge style
• Resist/Reserve style
• Azo color style
• Metal/Bronze style
• Flock style

Methods of printing: These are the procedures by which printing is designed on to fabrics. Different types of printing method mentioned at below-

• Block printing
• Flat printing
• Stencil printing
• Screen printing
• Roller printing
• Transfer printing
• Flock printing

Thickener: It is the vital component for making printing paste. It is used in textile printing and high molecular weight compound giving viscous paste in water. They impart stickiness and plasticity to the printing paste so that it can be applied in fabric surface without spreading. Printing paste contains up to 80% of thickener.

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Textile Dyeing Technology | Fiber, Yarn, Fabric or Garment Dyeing

Dyeing: It is the process of making colorful the substances treated as textiles like as fiber, yarn, fabric as well as garment. Dyestuffs give color to the material onto which they have been anchored by selectively retaining some of the wavelengths out of the light falling upon the surface. Different types of dyestuffs are used to dye specific fiber or yarn according to the feature and nature of both fiber and dyestuffs. Wavelength of light absorbed is 400-750nm.

Theory of Dyeing:

The forces which anchor dyestuffs molecules to textile fibers are complex and the study of them has attracted many investigators. The process consists of three stages which are -

• Migration of the dye from the solution to the interface accompanied by adsorption on the surface of the fiber.
• Diffusion of he dye from the surface towards the centre of the fiber.
• The anchoring of the dye molecules by covalent or hydrogen bonds, other forces of a physical nature.

Chromophore: Every dyestuffs contains chromophore group in its chemical structure. The chemical compound which contains azo, nitro or keto group in its structure they are so called chromophore group. These are the main component of dyestuffs cause of they are color bearing group. Dyes as well as pigments contain this same group.

Auxochrome: Only dyestuffs contain this group other than pigment. The chemical compound which contain amino, carboxilic or sulphone group in their chemical structure are commonly known as auxochrome group. These are also known as color increasing group.

Hue: Hue is the word by which we can perceive the color. By virtue of it we can think of as describing color. Red, Green or Blue.

Value (lightness): describes overall intensity to how light or dark a color is. It is the only dimension of color that may exist by itself.

Chroma (Saturation): may be defined as the strength or dominance of the hue. On the outer edge of the hue wheel are the intensely saturated hues.Towards the center of the color wheel, no hue dominates and they becomes less and less saturated.

Shade: It means the deepness of color or concentration of color where maximum percent of colors are used to make a deeper shade. Usually .5-1.5% is treated as light shade, 1.5 - 2.5 is treated as medium shade and above 2.5% is treated as deep shade.

Tinctorial Power: It is the property of any dye which gives more or less reactivity capability to produce deep to light shade with the same amount of chemicals as well as dyestuffs.

Common Dyestuffs 

• Direct dye (Specially to cotton)
• Acid dye ( Affinity to Protein Fiber)
• Basic dye ( Affinity to jute fiber)
• Vat dye (Best for cotton)
• Reactive dye (Without manufactured fiber apply to all)
• Disperse dye (Volatile dye use to hydrophobic fibers)
• Azoic dye (Cotton, Wool, Silk)
• Sulpher dye (Only black shade to all fiber)

Color material can be imparted at all the stages like fiber, yarn, fabric or garment dyeing. Now garments dyeing is becoming popular among teenagers and ladies.

Textile Dyeing Technology | Fiber, Yarn, Fabric or Garment Dyeing

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Dyeing: It is the process of making colorful the substances treated as textiles like as fiber, yarn, fabric as well as garment. Dyestuffs give color to the material onto which they have been anchored by selectively retaining some of the wavelengths out of the light falling upon the surface. Different types of dyestuffs are used to dye specific fiber or yarn according to the feature and nature of both fiber and dyestuffs. Wavelength of light absorbed is 400-750nm.

Theory of Dyeing:

The forces which anchor dyestuffs molecules to textile fibers are complex and the study of them has attracted many investigators. The process consists of three stages which are -

• Migration of the dye from the solution to the interface accompanied by adsorption on the surface of the fiber.
• Diffusion of he dye from the surface towards the centre of the fiber.
• The anchoring of the dye molecules by covalent or hydrogen bonds, other forces of a physical nature.

Chromophore: Every dyestuffs contains chromophore group in its chemical structure. The chemical compound which contains azo, nitro or keto group in its structure they are so called chromophore group. These are the main component of dyestuffs cause of they are color bearing group. Dyes as well as pigments contain this same group.

Auxochrome: Only dyestuffs contain this group other than pigment. The chemical compound which contain amino, carboxilic or sulphone group in their chemical structure are commonly known as auxochrome group. These are also known as color increasing group.

Hue: Hue is the word by which we can perceive the color. By virtue of it we can think of as describing color. Red, Green or Blue.

Value (lightness): describes overall intensity to how light or dark a color is. It is the only dimension of color that may exist by itself.

Chroma (Saturation): may be defined as the strength or dominance of the hue. On the outer edge of the hue wheel are the intensely saturated hues.Towards the center of the color wheel, no hue dominates and they becomes less and less saturated.

Shade: It means the deepness of color or concentration of color where maximum percent of colors are used to make a deeper shade. Usually .5-1.5% is treated as light shade, 1.5 - 2.5 is treated as medium shade and above 2.5% is treated as deep shade.

Tinctorial Power: It is the property of any dye which gives more or less reactivity capability to produce deep to light shade with the same amount of chemicals as well as dyestuffs.

Common Dyestuffs 

• Direct dye (Specially to cotton)
• Acid dye ( Affinity to Protein Fiber)
• Basic dye ( Affinity to jute fiber)
• Vat dye (Best for cotton)
• Reactive dye (Without manufactured fiber apply to all)
• Disperse dye (Volatile dye use to hydrophobic fibers)
• Azoic dye (Cotton, Wool, Silk)
• Sulpher dye (Only black shade to all fiber)

Color material can be imparted at all the stages like fiber, yarn, fabric or garment dyeing. Now garments dyeing is becoming popular among teenagers and ladies.

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What is GPT, FPT, GCR and Formaldehyde Test ? What is Lab Test Sample?

In garments and textile, before starting bulk production some testing would conduct  according to the buyers requirement. Each buyer set guidelines what tests are mandatory at fabric stage, trims and garments stage.

In garments and textile testing, GPT stands for Garments Performance/ Package Test, FPT stands for  Fabric Performance/ Package Test, GCR stands for Garments Check Report and for Japan as well as china product Formaldehyde and extra pH test should be conducted. For China product this test is commonly known as GB test where pH, formaldehyde, garments safety issues are tested. 

As per buyers own features these tests are so called Lab Testing and which samples are treated for these tests are known as Lab Test Sample.

 

 

 For GPT which tests are commonly conducted listed bellow-

• Colorfastness to Saliva
• Colorfastness to Water
• Colorfastness to Ozone
• Colorfastness to Perspiration
• Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
• Colorfastness to Crocking (Rubbing)
• Colorfastness to Laundering
• Colorfastness to Light
• Construction Review
• Button Attachment Strength
• Mechanical Hazards
• Small Parts Attachment Strength
• Snaps- Attachment Strength
• Physical And Mechanical Hazards/Workmanship-Use and abuse Test
• Belt Loop Attachment Strength
• Tear Strength
• Tensile Strength
• Seam Strength
• Appearance Before & After Laundering
• Spirality/Torque After Wash
• Dimensional Stability (Machine Wash)
• pH Value
• Zipper Tab Twist Method
• Stretch And Recovery
• Fabric Weight

For FPT which tests are commonly conducted listed bellow-

• Fabric construction
• Fiber content present in fabric
• Fabric weight
• Color fastness
• Weave construction
• Yarn count

For GCR, it is normally tested by metal part supplier. How much pressure should give to attach the metal item like snap, shank, tack, ring snap buttons with garments.

A limited percent of formaldehyde should present in garments which are shipped for Japan country, therefore Formaldehyde test would be conducted from JAPAN.

There are some third party testing companies who tests all these tests internationally. Most popular some testing  labs are given below-

• SGS (General Conditions for Certification Services)
• BV (Bureau Veritas)
• INTERTEK
• CTS (Consumer Testing Services)

What is GPT, FPT, GCR and Formaldehyde Test ? What is Lab Test Sample?

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In garments and textile, before starting bulk production some testing would conduct  according to the buyers requirement. Each buyer set guidelines what tests are mandatory at fabric stage, trims and garments stage.

In garments and textile testing, GPT stands for Garments Performance/ Package Test, FPT stands for  Fabric Performance/ Package Test, GCR stands for Garments Check Report and for Japan as well as china product Formaldehyde and extra pH test should be conducted. For China product this test is commonly known as GB test where pH, formaldehyde, garments safety issues are tested. 

As per buyers own features these tests are so called Lab Testing and which samples are treated for these tests are known as Lab Test Sample.

 

 

 For GPT which tests are commonly conducted listed bellow-

• Colorfastness to Saliva
• Colorfastness to Water
• Colorfastness to Ozone
• Colorfastness to Perspiration
• Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach
• Colorfastness to Crocking (Rubbing)
• Colorfastness to Laundering
• Colorfastness to Light
• Construction Review
• Button Attachment Strength
• Mechanical Hazards
• Small Parts Attachment Strength
• Snaps- Attachment Strength
• Physical And Mechanical Hazards/Workmanship-Use and abuse Test
• Belt Loop Attachment Strength
• Tear Strength
• Tensile Strength
• Seam Strength
• Appearance Before & After Laundering
• Spirality/Torque After Wash
• Dimensional Stability (Machine Wash)
• pH Value
• Zipper Tab Twist Method
• Stretch And Recovery
• Fabric Weight

For FPT which tests are commonly conducted listed bellow-

• Fabric construction
• Fiber content present in fabric
• Fabric weight
• Color fastness
• Weave construction
• Yarn count

For GCR, it is normally tested by metal part supplier. How much pressure should give to attach the metal item like snap, shank, tack, ring snap buttons with garments.

A limited percent of formaldehyde should present in garments which are shipped for Japan country, therefore Formaldehyde test would be conducted from JAPAN.

There are some third party testing companies who tests all these tests internationally. Most popular some testing  labs are given below-

• SGS (General Conditions for Certification Services)
• BV (Bureau Veritas)
• INTERTEK
• CTS (Consumer Testing Services)

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International Commercial Terms (Incoterms) - Important for Apparel Merchandising

International Commercial Terms (Incoterms) are internationally recognized standard trade terms used in sales contracts. They’re used to make sure buyer and seller know:

•   who is responsible for the cost of transporting the goods, including insurance, taxes and duties
•   where the goods should be picked up from and transported to
•   who is responsible for the goods at each step during transportation

International Commercial Terms (Incoterms) - Important for Apparel Merchandising

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International Commercial Terms (Incoterms) are internationally recognized standard trade terms used in sales contracts. They’re used to make sure buyer and seller know:

•   who is responsible for the cost of transporting the goods, including insurance, taxes and duties
•   where the goods should be picked up from and transported to
•   who is responsible for the goods at each step during transportation

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Trims and Accesories list of Garmemts | Trims of Apparels

Main raw material of garments is fabric. Other than fabrics all the items need to make, ornament and give unique looking to a garment are so called trims or accessories. Q33TZ7QZJ82W

Trims: Usually all the materials other than fabric require to make the full fashioned apparel are called trims. Two types of trims are available and they are functional and ornamental. To give aesthetic look to a garment, trims should provided at the best quality. Trims are directly attached with the garments. Example-thread, zipper, button etc.

Accessories: The materials which are used to give beauty and attractive look to a garment and increase the great aesthetic appearance to take attraction of customers are formerly known as accessories. Accessories are not attached directly with garments. Example - tag pin, price ticket, hang tag, barcode sticker etc.

List of Trims and Accessories are given Bellow

• Labels
• Button
• Zippers
• Pading
• Sherpa
• Interlining
• Lining

• Elastic
• Twill
• Stopper
• String
• Piping cord
• Emblem
• Logo Print
• Swivel

• Hook
• Eyelet/Grommet
• Collar Stay
• Cord Bell
• Buckle
• Shank
• Rivet

• Weaving belt
• Hook and Eye
• Velcro tape (hook and loop fastener)
• Seam Sealing Tape
• Backing
• Heat Seal
• Leather patch
• Shoulder pad

• Cable (Steel Ware)
  Adjuster
• Elastic Threads
• Shoulder Tape
• Lace
• Braid
• Ribbons
• Hook

• Drawstring
• Poly Bad
• Elastic bag
• Mini poly bag
• Master carton
• Inner carton
• Size clip
• P.P.Band
• Tag pin

• Brass pin
• Collar stand
• Safety pin
• Gum tape
• Arrow sticker
• Scotch tape
• Both side tape
• Barcode sticker

• Hang tag
• Defect Indicator
• Alarm tag
• Tissue paper
• Back  board
• Neck board
• Numbering sticker
• Size stripe/sticker

• Matchbook
• Hanger & Sizer
• Carton pad
• Plastic staple
• Clip
• Ball chain
• Size tag
• Carton sticker

• Safety sticker
• Plastic clip
• Online Poly bag
• Price Ticket
• Japan poly sticker

Trims and Accesories list of Garmemts | Trims of Apparels

No comments

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Main raw material of garments is fabric. Other than fabrics all the items need to make, ornament and give unique looking to a garment are so called trims or accessories. Q33TZ7QZJ82W

Trims: Usually all the materials other than fabric require to make the full fashioned apparel are called trims. Two types of trims are available and they are functional and ornamental. To give aesthetic look to a garment, trims should provided at the best quality. Trims are directly attached with the garments. Example-thread, zipper, button etc.

Accessories: The materials which are used to give beauty and attractive look to a garment and increase the great aesthetic appearance to take attraction of customers are formerly known as accessories. Accessories are not attached directly with garments. Example - tag pin, price ticket, hang tag, barcode sticker etc.

List of Trims and Accessories are given Bellow

• Labels
• Button
• Zippers
• Pading
• Sherpa
• Interlining
• Lining

• Elastic
• Twill
• Stopper
• String
• Piping cord
• Emblem
• Logo Print
• Swivel

• Hook
• Eyelet/Grommet
• Collar Stay
• Cord Bell
• Buckle
• Shank
• Rivet

• Weaving belt
• Hook and Eye
• Velcro tape (hook and loop fastener)
• Seam Sealing Tape
• Backing
• Heat Seal
• Leather patch
• Shoulder pad

• Cable (Steel Ware)
  Adjuster
• Elastic Threads
• Shoulder Tape
• Lace
• Braid
• Ribbons
• Hook

• Drawstring
• Poly Bad
• Elastic bag
• Mini poly bag
• Master carton
• Inner carton
• Size clip
• P.P.Band
• Tag pin

• Brass pin
• Collar stand
• Safety pin
• Gum tape
• Arrow sticker
• Scotch tape
• Both side tape
• Barcode sticker

• Hang tag
• Defect Indicator
• Alarm tag
• Tissue paper
• Back  board
• Neck board
• Numbering sticker
• Size stripe/sticker

• Matchbook
• Hanger & Sizer
• Carton pad
• Plastic staple
• Clip
• Ball chain
• Size tag
• Carton sticker

• Safety sticker
• Plastic clip
• Online Poly bag
• Price Ticket
• Japan poly sticker

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Garments Making Flowchart | Operations of Garments Making

RMG (Ready Made Garments) is the final product of textile. Buyers given their required design to manufacturers, then FOB prices, fabric and other trims sourcing as per nominated supplier or local products (Frequently happen in case of knit). To make a garment some consecutive processes are to be done successively. Now know the garments making flowchart and process operations. RMG factories are scheduled with a common processing sequence to make and export. Flowchart of garments making must know as if you a merchandiser because you have to make time and action plan according to the setup of your factory. The operations involves there from development to ship the goods have been given in a flowchart of garments making. Q33TZ7QZJ82W

Garments are made with the below successive processes. Operations involves in garments making are given bellow

Operation	Job	Method
Tech Pack /PDM /Design	TP or PDM (Product Development Manual) is formerly given by buyer containing sketches, construction and measurement chart for a particular style of garments.	Manual/ Computerized
Basic Block/ Block Pattern	Basic block or block pattern is also given by buyer in some cases to make a style easy, it is featured with individual component of garments without considering allowances.	Manual/ Computerized
Working Pattern/ Garments Pattern	When a pattern is made for a particular style with net dimension regarding the basic block along with allowances then it is called a working pattern or garment pattern.	Manual/ Computerized
Sample Garments	By following TP and pattern, sample is made, send to buyer for reviewing and receive comments for final (Sample will be made till buyer satisfaction)  and go into production	Manual
Approved Sample	Different types of samples are made before starting production such as development, fit, wash, pp, GPT or Lab test. Once the sample approved by the buyer, then it is treated as approved sample as a final counter for bulk production	Manual
Costing	Fabric Cost CM (Cost of Making) Trims Cost Wash Cost Profit	Manual
Production Pattern	Making allowance with net dimension to bulk production	Manual/ Computerized
Grading	According to measurement chart and size breakdown grading is done for marker making. (It may be small to large or depends on the ages) It is frequently done by CAD to get more accuracy.	Manual/ Computerized
Marker Making	The marker is a thin paper which contains all the components of different sizes for a particular style of garments	Manual/ Computerized
Fabric Spreading	Spreading is done before cutting with the help of fabric spreader or manually. The marker is then spread over the fabric lay	Manual/ Computerized
Cutting	Cut the fabric according to marker dimension	Manual/ Computerized
Sorting & Bundling	Sort out the fabric according to size and for each size make in individual bundles	Manual
Sewing	Assemble a full garment	Manual
Washing	For woven garment washing is compulsory, especially denim garments are to be washed according to wash target. Others garments including knit also being washed.	Manual
Finishing	After washing the garments are to be attached others trims in  the  finishing section like as snap, button, rib or twill tape, shank etc and loose or hanging threads are cut in finishing.	Manual
Ironing	Now the garments are then applied to ironing and pressing.	Manual
Inspection	Should be approved as initial sample	Manual
Packing	Garments are packed with polyethylene bag by folding	Manual
Cartooning	After packing, it should be placed In cartooning for export	Manual
Dispatching	Hand over the cartoons to C&F to send to the final destination by air or sea.	Manual

 

Garments Making Flowchart | Operations of Garments Making

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RMG (Ready Made Garments) is the final product of textile. Buyers given their required design to manufacturers, then FOB prices, fabric and other trims sourcing as per nominated supplier or local products (Frequently happen in case of knit). To make a garment some consecutive processes are to be done successively. Now know the garments making flowchart and process operations. RMG factories are scheduled with a common processing sequence to make and export. Flowchart of garments making must know as if you a merchandiser because you have to make time and action plan according to the setup of your factory. The operations involves there from development to ship the goods have been given in a flowchart of garments making. Q33TZ7QZJ82W

Garments are made with the below successive processes. Operations involves in garments making are given bellow

Operation	Job	Method
Tech Pack /PDM /Design	TP or PDM (Product Development Manual) is formerly given by buyer containing sketches, construction and measurement chart for a particular style of garments.	Manual/ Computerized
Basic Block/ Block Pattern	Basic block or block pattern is also given by buyer in some cases to make a style easy, it is featured with individual component of garments without considering allowances.	Manual/ Computerized
Working Pattern/ Garments Pattern	When a pattern is made for a particular style with net dimension regarding the basic block along with allowances then it is called a working pattern or garment pattern.	Manual/ Computerized
Sample Garments	By following TP and pattern, sample is made, send to buyer for reviewing and receive comments for final (Sample will be made till buyer satisfaction)  and go into production	Manual
Approved Sample	Different types of samples are made before starting production such as development, fit, wash, pp, GPT or Lab test. Once the sample approved by the buyer, then it is treated as approved sample as a final counter for bulk production	Manual
Costing	Fabric Cost CM (Cost of Making) Trims Cost Wash Cost Profit	Manual
Production Pattern	Making allowance with net dimension to bulk production	Manual/ Computerized
Grading	According to measurement chart and size breakdown grading is done for marker making. (It may be small to large or depends on the ages) It is frequently done by CAD to get more accuracy.	Manual/ Computerized
Marker Making	The marker is a thin paper which contains all the components of different sizes for a particular style of garments	Manual/ Computerized
Fabric Spreading	Spreading is done before cutting with the help of fabric spreader or manually. The marker is then spread over the fabric lay	Manual/ Computerized
Cutting	Cut the fabric according to marker dimension	Manual/ Computerized
Sorting & Bundling	Sort out the fabric according to size and for each size make in individual bundles	Manual
Sewing	Assemble a full garment	Manual
Washing	For woven garment washing is compulsory, especially denim garments are to be washed according to wash target. Others garments including knit also being washed.	Manual
Finishing	After washing the garments are to be attached others trims in  the  finishing section like as snap, button, rib or twill tape, shank etc and loose or hanging threads are cut in finishing.	Manual
Ironing	Now the garments are then applied to ironing and pressing.	Manual
Inspection	Should be approved as initial sample	Manual
Packing	Garments are packed with polyethylene bag by folding	Manual
Cartooning	After packing, it should be placed In cartooning for export	Manual
Dispatching	Hand over the cartoons to C&F to send to the final destination by air or sea.	Manual

 

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Process Flowchart of Knit Dyeing | Scouring-Bleaching-Enzymatic Treatment Flowchart

Knit dyeing is now most popular because of availability of knit composites and demand of knit garments. Knit dyeing process sequence is quite different to woven dyeing. Productivity of knit dyeing is higher than woven dyeing. Continuous dyeing process does not comply with knit dyeing thus it is done in batch process. 

Flowchart of Knit Dyeing-

Flowchart of Enzymatic Treatment -

Flowchart of  Scouring & Bleaching -

Process Flowchart of Knit Dyeing | Scouring-Bleaching-Enzymatic Treatment Flowchart

No comments

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Knit dyeing is now most popular because of availability of knit composites and demand of knit garments. Knit dyeing process sequence is quite different to woven dyeing. Productivity of knit dyeing is higher than woven dyeing. Continuous dyeing process does not comply with knit dyeing thus it is done in batch process. 

Flowchart of Knit Dyeing-

Flowchart of Enzymatic Treatment -

Flowchart of  Scouring & Bleaching -

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