Classification of Denim Fabric | Different Types of Denim Fabric

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 Article is Written By
Bidhan Sarker
Wash Technician
Kiabi International Supply Services Ltd, BD liaison office.
Contact:bdn.srkr@gmail.com

Denim is one of the widely used and durable fabric in textile industry. Typically, Denim is a twill fabric where warp yarns are dyed with Indigo/Sulphur and weft yarns are undyed which creates Blue top & white back appearance. This is the general specification of denim. Due to the expansion of denim industry in recent years and demand of denims for fashion which are made in different combinations and it obviously appears with different innovations.

So, considering that point of view denims can be classified in different categories which illustrates the versatility and wide range of denim developments. There are some basic type of denims are described briefly as below-

According to the fabric weight: 

 Fabric weight per unit area expresses the thickness and the compactness of the fabric which defines the end use. It can be classified into 3 groups.

1)    Light weight- weight around 4.5Oz-6Oz. Using for denim shirts/top items
2)    Medium weight- Weight range around 7Oz-10Oz. Using for kids bottom items
3)    Heavy weight- weight range around 11Oz-More. Using for ladies/men bottom items.

According to the weave Construction & mechanism:

Mostly denims are twill weave. But now there are some variations in terms of weave that are given as below.

2/1twill: it seems more like plane in appearance. Tapered shedding mechanism is used in this production. 

 

Sateen: for smooth surface and silky appearance.Tapered shedding mechanism is used in this production 

 

3/1twill: it seems more prominent diagonal lines.Tapered shedding mechanism is used in this production.

 

Fake knit: basically, its sateen-based twill which gives like Fleece appearance on the back side. Dobby shedding mechanism are used in the production.

 

Broken: Broken twill construction is applied on this and after wash appearance seems flatter. Tapered & Dobby both shedding mechanism can be used in this production.

 

Fancy: different types of dobby/jacquard mechanisms are applied in the production.

 

 

 

 

 

 

According to the dyeing process: 

Indigo is the main Dye for denim. But to make more variations Indigo & Sulpher dyes are combined in different ways. So based on that it can be classified as following-

1.    Indigo Blue denim (Only Indigo)
2.    Blue-Black denim (Sulphur top + Indigo Bottom or Indigo top + Sulphur bottom)
3.    Grey denim (low Sulphur concentration + Vat dye)
4.    Black Denim (only Sulphur)

According to the Finishing processes & end uses:

Considering the end use or special criteria it can be classified as following-

1.    Regular denim- regular 100% cotton, cotton poly denim with basic Finishing which ensure the dimensional stability of the fabric during washing.

2.    Selvedge denim- To Keep fabric Selvedge untwisted and used the area as styling during weaving width wise selvedge is made in different way but strong. This is basically done in weaving stage.

3.    Stretch denim- Considering comfort in wearing elastane are using in weaving. Those denims are known as stretch/comfort denim. Those types of denim Stentering& Compacting is very important to keep the Stretch & fabric width consistent

4.    Coated denim: Normally special types of coating consisting chemical mixtures are applied on the surface of the fabric to give a coated look. Those types of denims are used in Raw look garments manufacturing. /styling. 

5.    Water repellent Denim: To make the Fabric water repellent wax type coating are given on the fabric during finishing. This type of fabric is used for Jacket/some special biker jeans.

There are some other varieties like Slab Denim, Cross slab Denim, etc. But those are the variations coming because of the yarn count variations. Those can be achieved in any types. So, its not major classifications.