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GSM is the short form of Grams per Square Meter. GSM is the very most important thing which defines the weight of the fabrics of knit garments.

Garment price and quality based on many things like GSM, fabric quality, colors, finishing, prints, embroidery, style, etc. But GSM is the most important thing to be decided when confirming the prices between the sellers and buyers.

If we have fabrics, then we don’t have any problem in finding GSM, as we can cut any dimension to find GSM. But most of the times, we will have only the garments to find GSM. And we will have to keep the garment for style, making and other references. So we will be allowed to cut a small bit from the garments. Hence nowadays, round cutters are used. This system is used worldwide. With the help of this round cutter, the fabric will be cut into a small bit.

Then the GSM of the fabric can be found out by multiplying the weight of this round bit by 100. This round bit is to be weighed in an electronic scale with milligram accuracy. As this bit is very small and as the weight has to be multiplied by 100, the fabric has to be cut very sharply to get the exact GSM. Hence the blades of this round cutter are to be  sharp and new to get the exact GSM.

Now we will measure GSM in general procedure (In case of woven garment it is frequently used)


 GSM is the weight of 1meter x 1meter fabric. It means 100cm x 100cm = 10,000 sq.cms. It can be found out by any one of the below ways.

·         By the weight of 100cm x 100cm fabric bit.

·         By the weight of 50cm x 50cm fabric bit multiplied by 4.

·         By the weight of 25cm x 25cm fabric bit multiplied by 16.

·         By the weight of 10cm x 10cm fabric bit multiplied by 100.

We must be aware that if we use the smaller size bit, accurate GSM can not be achieved. The bigger size of fabric bit is better used to get exact or closer GSM.

Measuring GSM of Fabric Without GSM Cutter | Woven Fabric GSM Measurement

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GSM is the short form of Grams per Square Meter. GSM is the very most important thing which defines the weight of the fabrics of knit garments.

Garment price and quality based on many things like GSM, fabric quality, colors, finishing, prints, embroidery, style, etc. But GSM is the most important thing to be decided when confirming the prices between the sellers and buyers.

If we have fabrics, then we don’t have any problem in finding GSM, as we can cut any dimension to find GSM. But most of the times, we will have only the garments to find GSM. And we will have to keep the garment for style, making and other references. So we will be allowed to cut a small bit from the garments. Hence nowadays, round cutters are used. This system is used worldwide. With the help of this round cutter, the fabric will be cut into a small bit.

Then the GSM of the fabric can be found out by multiplying the weight of this round bit by 100. This round bit is to be weighed in an electronic scale with milligram accuracy. As this bit is very small and as the weight has to be multiplied by 100, the fabric has to be cut very sharply to get the exact GSM. Hence the blades of this round cutter are to be  sharp and new to get the exact GSM.

Now we will measure GSM in general procedure (In case of woven garment it is frequently used)


 GSM is the weight of 1meter x 1meter fabric. It means 100cm x 100cm = 10,000 sq.cms. It can be found out by any one of the below ways.

·         By the weight of 100cm x 100cm fabric bit.

·         By the weight of 50cm x 50cm fabric bit multiplied by 4.

·         By the weight of 25cm x 25cm fabric bit multiplied by 16.

·         By the weight of 10cm x 10cm fabric bit multiplied by 100.

We must be aware that if we use the smaller size bit, accurate GSM can not be achieved. The bigger size of fabric bit is better used to get exact or closer GSM.
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In case of larger amount importation L/C is used. It is a costly process than TT.

An irrevocable Letter of Credit is also an often used payment method. It is often referred to an L/C. Letters of Credit are formal payment methods that offer a lot of protection to the parties.


Simply put, a letter of credit is a letter written by the importer's bank to the exporter. It verifies that the payment will be guaranteed when the bank is presented with the concrete documents (bill of loading, and freight documents). Most letters of credit are "irrevocable" once the importer has had them sent.

A letter of credit usually includes applicant (you, the importer), beneficiary, opening bank, negotiating bank, specification and quantity of the goods, amount of money, loading port and destination port, shipment date, the validity date of the L/C, terms and conditions agreed by both the importer and seller, and the documents required by the importers (bill of loading, commercial invoice, packing list, insurance certificate, etc.)


L/C payment terms procedures:

a. You (the importer) applies to open the L/C to us (the seller) through a bank who can open the L/C in your country.
b. The opening bank will inform The Bank of Seller that the L/C has been opened.
c. The Bank of  Seller will inform us that the L/C has been established.
d. Seller will check all the terms and conditions listed in the L/C. If all terms and conditions are acceptable, They'll arrange the shipment within the time specified in the L/C.
e. After the goods are loaded onto the ship without any damage, the captain will issue the clean bill of lading to seller.
f. They will submit the clean bill of loading and other relevant documents to The Bank of seller to gather the payment. Only with clean bill of loading can you claim the ownership of the goods.
g. The Bank of seller will send the clean bill of lading and relevant documents to your bank (the opening bank).
h. The opening bank will inform you that all documents are received.
i. You will go to the bank to make the payment to get the clean bill of loading and relevant documents.
j. With all of these documents, you can clear the import Customs and pick up the goods after the goods arrive on the destination sea port.

L/C Payment Procedures for Fabric Importation-Woven Garment Merchandising

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In case of larger amount importation L/C is used. It is a costly process than TT.

An irrevocable Letter of Credit is also an often used payment method. It is often referred to an L/C. Letters of Credit are formal payment methods that offer a lot of protection to the parties.


Simply put, a letter of credit is a letter written by the importer's bank to the exporter. It verifies that the payment will be guaranteed when the bank is presented with the concrete documents (bill of loading, and freight documents). Most letters of credit are "irrevocable" once the importer has had them sent.

A letter of credit usually includes applicant (you, the importer), beneficiary, opening bank, negotiating bank, specification and quantity of the goods, amount of money, loading port and destination port, shipment date, the validity date of the L/C, terms and conditions agreed by both the importer and seller, and the documents required by the importers (bill of loading, commercial invoice, packing list, insurance certificate, etc.)


L/C payment terms procedures:

a. You (the importer) applies to open the L/C to us (the seller) through a bank who can open the L/C in your country.
b. The opening bank will inform The Bank of Seller that the L/C has been opened.
c. The Bank of  Seller will inform us that the L/C has been established.
d. Seller will check all the terms and conditions listed in the L/C. If all terms and conditions are acceptable, They'll arrange the shipment within the time specified in the L/C.
e. After the goods are loaded onto the ship without any damage, the captain will issue the clean bill of lading to seller.
f. They will submit the clean bill of loading and other relevant documents to The Bank of seller to gather the payment. Only with clean bill of loading can you claim the ownership of the goods.
g. The Bank of seller will send the clean bill of lading and relevant documents to your bank (the opening bank).
h. The opening bank will inform you that all documents are received.
i. You will go to the bank to make the payment to get the clean bill of loading and relevant documents.
j. With all of these documents, you can clear the import Customs and pick up the goods after the goods arrive on the destination sea port.

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AWB            - Air Waybill

D/C              - Documentary Credit (also known as L/C)

CFR             - Cost & Freight

CIF               - Cost, Insurance & Freight (Price of products including insurance and cost of freight up to certain destination port.)

CNF/C&F    - Cost & Freight (Price of products including cost of freight up to certain destination port.)


CNF             - Clearing & Forwarding

ETA              - Expected Time of Arrival

ETD              - Expected Time of Delivery

BL                 - Bill of Loading




FCL              - Full Container Load

FOB             - Free On Board (Price of products including freight cost up to the port of origin.)
 
GSP              - Generalized System of Preference
 
HAWB          - House Air Waybill
 
H.S. Code     - Harmonized System Code
 
Incoterms     - International Commercial Terms
 
L/C               - Letter of Credit (also known as D/C)

BTB L/C      - Back To Back L/C
 
LCL             - Less than Container Load. (or, Less than Carload Lot.)
 
MAWB         - Master Air Waybill
 
MOQ            - Minimum Order Quantity
 
PB                 - Performance Bond (also known as Performance Guarantee)
 
PG                 - Performance Guarantee (also known as Performance Bond)
 
PI                  - Proforma Invoice
 
PSI                - Pre-Shipment Inspection
 
TT                 - Telegraphic Transfer (Wire Transfer)

Commercial Terms Frequently Used in Garment Exportation and Importation

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AWB            - Air Waybill

D/C              - Documentary Credit (also known as L/C)

CFR             - Cost & Freight

CIF               - Cost, Insurance & Freight (Price of products including insurance and cost of freight up to certain destination port.)

CNF/C&F    - Cost & Freight (Price of products including cost of freight up to certain destination port.)


CNF             - Clearing & Forwarding

ETA              - Expected Time of Arrival

ETD              - Expected Time of Delivery

BL                 - Bill of Loading




FCL              - Full Container Load

FOB             - Free On Board (Price of products including freight cost up to the port of origin.)
 
GSP              - Generalized System of Preference
 
HAWB          - House Air Waybill
 
H.S. Code     - Harmonized System Code
 
Incoterms     - International Commercial Terms
 
L/C               - Letter of Credit (also known as D/C)

BTB L/C      - Back To Back L/C
 
LCL             - Less than Container Load. (or, Less than Carload Lot.)
 
MAWB         - Master Air Waybill
 
MOQ            - Minimum Order Quantity
 
PB                 - Performance Bond (also known as Performance Guarantee)
 
PG                 - Performance Guarantee (also known as Performance Bond)
 
PI                  - Proforma Invoice
 
PSI                - Pre-Shipment Inspection
 
TT                 - Telegraphic Transfer (Wire Transfer)
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 In short staple spinning three types of spinning systems are available in a wide range. In ring spinning carded and combed yarn are produced according to the requirement of yarn quality, price as well as time consumption. Carded yarns are highly used for medium quality and average count, used for all kinds of fabrics.

Flow Chart for Carded Yarn Manufacturing Process:


Fiber → Blow Room   →     Lap
↓
                Lap   →        Carding   →   Card Sliver
↓
Card Sliver →   1st Drawing Frame →   Drawn Sliver
↓
  Drawn Sliver    →     2nd Drawing Frame   → Drawn Sliver
↓
Drawn Sliver →    Simplex   →   Roving
↓
Roving    →   Ring Frame   →   Yarn
↓
Winding
↓
Reeling
↓
Bundling
↓
Bailing

 Comb yarn is very much high quality yarns in comparison with card yarn cause of here more short fiber and naps as well as impurities are removed through the combing action. Superior quality yarns can produce in using combing machine to the machine sequence. In cotton count, higher the number finer the yarns will be. Combed yarns have high count number with best quality in using fabric making.
 
Combed cotton yarn manufacturing process:

Fiber → Blow Room   →     Lap
↓
                Lap   →        Carding   →   Card Sliver
↓
Card Sliver →   Pre-Comb Drawing Frame →   Sliver (Pre-Drawing)
↓
Sliver    →   Lap Former →   Lap
↓
    Lap     →     Comber →       Comb Sliver
↓
Comb Sliver   →     Post-Comb Drawing Frame   → Drawn Sliver (Post-Drawing)
↓
Drawn Sliver →    Simplex   →   Roving
↓
Roving    →   Ring Frame   →   Yarn
↓
Winding
↓
Reeling
↓
Bundling
↓
Bailing

 For high quality fabric making combed yarns are frequently used as to make luxurious garments. Comfort as well as handling appeal is much higher in the case of garments made of combed yarns.
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Short Staple Spinning Flow Chart | Carded and Combed Yarn Manufacturing Processes

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 In short staple spinning three types of spinning systems are available in a wide range. In ring spinning carded and combed yarn are produced according to the requirement of yarn quality, price as well as time consumption. Carded yarns are highly used for medium quality and average count, used for all kinds of fabrics.

Flow Chart for Carded Yarn Manufacturing Process:


Fiber → Blow Room   →     Lap
↓
                Lap   →        Carding   →   Card Sliver
↓
Card Sliver →   1st Drawing Frame →   Drawn Sliver
↓
  Drawn Sliver    →     2nd Drawing Frame   → Drawn Sliver
↓
Drawn Sliver →    Simplex   →   Roving
↓
Roving    →   Ring Frame   →   Yarn
↓
Winding
↓
Reeling
↓
Bundling
↓
Bailing

 Comb yarn is very much high quality yarns in comparison with card yarn cause of here more short fiber and naps as well as impurities are removed through the combing action. Superior quality yarns can produce in using combing machine to the machine sequence. In cotton count, higher the number finer the yarns will be. Combed yarns have high count number with best quality in using fabric making.
 
Combed cotton yarn manufacturing process:

Fiber → Blow Room   →     Lap
↓
                Lap   →        Carding   →   Card Sliver
↓
Card Sliver →   Pre-Comb Drawing Frame →   Sliver (Pre-Drawing)
↓
Sliver    →   Lap Former →   Lap
↓
    Lap     →     Comber →       Comb Sliver
↓
Comb Sliver   →     Post-Comb Drawing Frame   → Drawn Sliver (Post-Drawing)
↓
Drawn Sliver →    Simplex   →   Roving
↓
Roving    →   Ring Frame   →   Yarn
↓
Winding
↓
Reeling
↓
Bundling
↓
Bailing

 For high quality fabric making combed yarns are frequently used as to make luxurious garments. Comfort as well as handling appeal is much higher in the case of garments made of combed yarns.
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Original text
Contribute a better translation
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Open ended (OE) or break spinning is referred to as rotor spinning where process sequence is less than combed as well as carded yarn. Roving formation in simplex machine is not required to rotor spinning where drawn slivers are fed to the machine directly. Production rate of OE spinning system is higher than ring spinning where coarse yarns are made within a range of 5 to 40 cotton count. Medium to low quality yarns are produced here used for making denim, dungaree, twill, chino as well as any heavy fabric. Local use of rotor yarn is sometimes higher than ring spun yarns. Rotor spinning is much popular in use due to the high production rate, less wastage percentage as well as highly usable in denim to make blue jeans.


OE or Rotor Spinning flow chart is given below:

Fiber/Bale →    Blow Room →     Lap
↓
Lap    →   Carding   →   Sliver (Carded)
↓
Carded Sliver →  1st Drawing frame   →   Drawn Sliver
↓
Drawn Sliver   →   2nd Drawing frame →   Drawn Sliver
↓
Drawn Sliver   →   Rotor Spinning   → Rotor Yarn
↓
Winding
↓
Reeling
↓
Bundling
↓
Bailing


Now a day’s chute feed system is very much popular than conventional lap feed system in case of blow room lap feeding.

Rotor Spinning | Open End (OE) Spinning | Flowchart of Rotor Yarn

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Open ended (OE) or break spinning is referred to as rotor spinning where process sequence is less than combed as well as carded yarn. Roving formation in simplex machine is not required to rotor spinning where drawn slivers are fed to the machine directly. Production rate of OE spinning system is higher than ring spinning where coarse yarns are made within a range of 5 to 40 cotton count. Medium to low quality yarns are produced here used for making denim, dungaree, twill, chino as well as any heavy fabric. Local use of rotor yarn is sometimes higher than ring spun yarns. Rotor spinning is much popular in use due to the high production rate, less wastage percentage as well as highly usable in denim to make blue jeans.


OE or Rotor Spinning flow chart is given below:

Fiber/Bale →    Blow Room →     Lap
↓
Lap    →   Carding   →   Sliver (Carded)
↓
Carded Sliver →  1st Drawing frame   →   Drawn Sliver
↓
Drawn Sliver   →   2nd Drawing frame →   Drawn Sliver
↓
Drawn Sliver   →   Rotor Spinning   → Rotor Yarn
↓
Winding
↓
Reeling
↓
Bundling
↓
Bailing


Now a day’s chute feed system is very much popular than conventional lap feed system in case of blow room lap feeding.
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Moisture Regain: It is the ratio between the weight of water with the oven dry weight of the material express in percentage.

Moisture Content: It is the ratio between the weight of water with the total weight of the material express in percentage.

 Fiber  -  MR%  -  MC%

Cotton   - 8.5      -  7.34
Jute      -  13.75    -  12.1
Viscose - 11.0    -   9.91
Silk       - 11.0    -   9.91
Wool     - 16.0    -  13.8
Acrylic   - 1.5     -  0
Flax       - 12.4    -  10.4
Hemp    - 12.4   -   10.4
Nylon     - 4.0    -   3.1
Polyester  - 0.4   -  0
Acetate    - 6.0    -  0


Olefin, Polypropylene, Carbon, Graphite, Glass fiber has no Moisture Regain or Moisture Content.

Moisture Regain and Moisture Content of Different Fibers

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Moisture Regain: It is the ratio between the weight of water with the oven dry weight of the material express in percentage.

Moisture Content: It is the ratio between the weight of water with the total weight of the material express in percentage.

 Fiber  -  MR%  -  MC%

Cotton   - 8.5      -  7.34
Jute      -  13.75    -  12.1
Viscose - 11.0    -   9.91
Silk       - 11.0    -   9.91
Wool     - 16.0    -  13.8
Acrylic   - 1.5     -  0
Flax       - 12.4    -  10.4
Hemp    - 12.4   -   10.4
Nylon     - 4.0    -   3.1
Polyester  - 0.4   -  0
Acetate    - 6.0    -  0


Olefin, Polypropylene, Carbon, Graphite, Glass fiber has no Moisture Regain or Moisture Content.
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Spandex Fiber
FTC (Federal Trade Commission) Definition-A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polymer comprised of at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane. Dupont Company first produced spandex as Lycra in 1959. Lycra is a trade name of spandex fiber was given by "Dupont" The others trade name of spandex is Elastane, Elaspan, Linel, ROICA and ESPA according to the manufacturers. Now Spandex is widely used for producing stretch fabrics such as knit fabrics, denim, twill, canvas, etc.

Available fiber formation
  • Spandex Textile Filament Fiber

Raw Materials of Spandex
  • Polyurethane
  • Natural latex

Properties of Spandex fiber
  • Outstanding stretch and recovery.
  • Extensibility is maximum 700%
  • Stronger, more durable and higher retractive force than rubber
  • Lightweight, soft, smooth, supple
  • Widely use in garments for comfort and fit.
  • Heat-settable — facilitates transforming puckered fabrics into flat fabrics, or flat fabrics into permanent rounded shapes
  • Easily Dye-able
  • Resistant to deterioration by body oils, perspiration, lotions or detergents
  • Abrasion resistant
  • Available in fiber diameters ranging from 10 denier to 2500 denier
  • Available in clear and opaque lustrous
  • Easily sew-able with no needle breakage

End Uses:
  • Most of the apparels where requires stretch and fit.


 

Spandex Fiber | Properties of Lycra | Elastane Fiber

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Spandex Fiber
FTC (Federal Trade Commission) Definition-A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polymer comprised of at least 85% of a segmented polyurethane. Dupont Company first produced spandex as Lycra in 1959. Lycra is a trade name of spandex fiber was given by "Dupont" The others trade name of spandex is Elastane, Elaspan, Linel, ROICA and ESPA according to the manufacturers. Now Spandex is widely used for producing stretch fabrics such as knit fabrics, denim, twill, canvas, etc.

Available fiber formation
  • Spandex Textile Filament Fiber

Raw Materials of Spandex
  • Polyurethane
  • Natural latex

Properties of Spandex fiber
  • Outstanding stretch and recovery.
  • Extensibility is maximum 700%
  • Stronger, more durable and higher retractive force than rubber
  • Lightweight, soft, smooth, supple
  • Widely use in garments for comfort and fit.
  • Heat-settable — facilitates transforming puckered fabrics into flat fabrics, or flat fabrics into permanent rounded shapes
  • Easily Dye-able
  • Resistant to deterioration by body oils, perspiration, lotions or detergents
  • Abrasion resistant
  • Available in fiber diameters ranging from 10 denier to 2500 denier
  • Available in clear and opaque lustrous
  • Easily sew-able with no needle breakage

End Uses:
  • Most of the apparels where requires stretch and fit.


 
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