Sewing Thread Consumption Procedure | Thread Calculation for Garments Costing

Sewing threads are basic element of making any kind of apparel so it it highly needed to calculate actual consumption for making any item. Today's market is very competitive so merchandiser's should give attention on thread consumption also. Sometimes merchandiser's ignore this issue with little importance but for sustainable business policy you have to maintain accuracy in all portions and ensure the least wastage as well.

There is a basic formula for doing this thing with less effort and time.In that formula you will get multiplying factors according to machine type and stitch class. To determine thread consumption you just need to multiply seam length with that factors. This way one can estimate total thread requirement for making a garment.

Thread consumption depends on following factors-

• Style of the garment
• Types of stitch used
• Stitch per inch (SPI)
• Garments size/measurements
• Seam thickness
• Thread tension
• Thread count

The standard formula belongs according to the below procedures...

• Find out stitches of various classes
• Measure the length of each type of stitch
• Measure the length of sewing thread/inch stitch
• Calculate total thread in length for each stitch
• Summarized the total thread for all stitches

Thread consumption ratios as per coats international:

Some basic consumptions are given below:

Item	Thread Consumption per body
Basic t-shirt	125 mtr
Basic polo shirt	180 mtr
Basic long sleeve shirt	150 mtr
Basic short sleeve woven shiirt	125 mtr
Basic shorts	350 mtr
Classic short	450 mtr
Basic long pants	350 mtr
Classic long pants	450 mtr
Basic short all	350 mtr
Basic overall	400 mtr
Padded coverall	450 mtr
Basic romper	200 mtr
Skirt	300 mtr
Panty	50 mtr
Brief	100 mtr
Brassier	150 mtr
Tank top	50 mtr
Denim 5pkt pant	400 mtr
Denim jacket	450 mtr
Twill jacket	450 mtr

Sewing Thread Consumption Procedure | Thread Calculation for Garments Costing

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Sewing threads are basic element of making any kind of apparel so it it highly needed to calculate actual consumption for making any item. Today's market is very competitive so merchandiser's should give attention on thread consumption also. Sometimes merchandiser's ignore this issue with little importance but for sustainable business policy you have to maintain accuracy in all portions and ensure the least wastage as well.

There is a basic formula for doing this thing with less effort and time.In that formula you will get multiplying factors according to machine type and stitch class. To determine thread consumption you just need to multiply seam length with that factors. This way one can estimate total thread requirement for making a garment.

Thread consumption depends on following factors-

• Style of the garment
• Types of stitch used
• Stitch per inch (SPI)
• Garments size/measurements
• Seam thickness
• Thread tension
• Thread count

The standard formula belongs according to the below procedures...

• Find out stitches of various classes
• Measure the length of each type of stitch
• Measure the length of sewing thread/inch stitch
• Calculate total thread in length for each stitch
• Summarized the total thread for all stitches

Thread consumption ratios as per coats international:

Some basic consumptions are given below:

Item	Thread Consumption per body
Basic t-shirt	125 mtr
Basic polo shirt	180 mtr
Basic long sleeve shirt	150 mtr
Basic short sleeve woven shiirt	125 mtr
Basic shorts	350 mtr
Classic short	450 mtr
Basic long pants	350 mtr
Classic long pants	450 mtr
Basic short all	350 mtr
Basic overall	400 mtr
Padded coverall	450 mtr
Basic romper	200 mtr
Skirt	300 mtr
Panty	50 mtr
Brief	100 mtr
Brassier	150 mtr
Tank top	50 mtr
Denim 5pkt pant	400 mtr
Denim jacket	450 mtr
Twill jacket	450 mtr

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What is Thread Ticket Number | Garments Sewing Thread Numbering Systems

Yarn counting or numbering system is the universal numerical expression for measuring yarn and thread coarseness or fineness. We can use count for both thread and yarn. Thread and yarn is not similar to use. They are also different in construction. Normally yarns are used to weaving and may be plied or single whereas thread is frequently used for sewing purposes and always contain two or more plies. When we use thread for garments sewing we frequently see that thread suppliers mention thread ticket number as well as count. Since thread is made always by two or more plies of yarn therefore counting system of thread is not similar like normal yarn count.

Thread Numbering or Counting:

When we will use counting system of thread like as 27 tex, 40 tex, 60 tex, 80 tex (Tex), it is simply followed the tex numbering system.

For direct system of thread numbering Tex is very popular. Tex is defined as weight of 1000 meters thread in grams.
For example, Tex 60 – a length of 1000 meters of thread will gives 60 grams of weight.

When we use 20/2, 20/3, 20/4 or 40/2 (English Count) then we can find out the resultant count by calculating the resultant count.

When more than one ply of yarn is twisted into a thread, finding the resultant size of the thread by considering all the plies becomes necessary.

For Indirect Counting System or Fixed Weight System: Resultant size = Individual yarn count / Number of plies

For Direct Counting System  In fixed length systems: Resultant size = Individual yarn count x Number of plies

In case of sewing necessary if you need thread of any count then a  particular resultant size can be made with any number of plies.

Ticket Numbering

Suppliers may ask you about the ticket number you want to purchase then you have to provide the ticket numbers of desired thread.Ticket numbering is a commercial numbering system. Ticket numbers are merely the manufacturer’s reference numbers for the size of a given thread.
The Metric Count, Cotton Count and Denier Systems use ticket numbering system to give an easy approximation of the specific size of the finished thread.

Depends on the nature of fiber as well as thread making process, ticket numbers will vary as it is not the same as in another.  For example, Ticket 75 Cotton is not the same as Ticket 75 mono-filament thread.

For Tex Ticket Numbering:
To convert any Tex Number to a Ticket Number value: divide 1,000 by the Tex number and multiply by 3.  [ Tkt. = (1000/Tex No.) X 3 ]

For Metric Ticket Numbering:

They can simply denote:
Higher the ticket number, finer the thread.
Lower the ticket number, coarser the thread.

What is Thread Ticket Number | Garments Sewing Thread Numbering Systems

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Yarn counting or numbering system is the universal numerical expression for measuring yarn and thread coarseness or fineness. We can use count for both thread and yarn. Thread and yarn is not similar to use. They are also different in construction. Normally yarns are used to weaving and may be plied or single whereas thread is frequently used for sewing purposes and always contain two or more plies. When we use thread for garments sewing we frequently see that thread suppliers mention thread ticket number as well as count. Since thread is made always by two or more plies of yarn therefore counting system of thread is not similar like normal yarn count.

Thread Numbering or Counting:

When we will use counting system of thread like as 27 tex, 40 tex, 60 tex, 80 tex (Tex), it is simply followed the tex numbering system.

For direct system of thread numbering Tex is very popular. Tex is defined as weight of 1000 meters thread in grams.
For example, Tex 60 – a length of 1000 meters of thread will gives 60 grams of weight.

When we use 20/2, 20/3, 20/4 or 40/2 (English Count) then we can find out the resultant count by calculating the resultant count.

When more than one ply of yarn is twisted into a thread, finding the resultant size of the thread by considering all the plies becomes necessary.

For Indirect Counting System or Fixed Weight System: Resultant size = Individual yarn count / Number of plies

For Direct Counting System  In fixed length systems: Resultant size = Individual yarn count x Number of plies

In case of sewing necessary if you need thread of any count then a  particular resultant size can be made with any number of plies.

Ticket Numbering

Suppliers may ask you about the ticket number you want to purchase then you have to provide the ticket numbers of desired thread.Ticket numbering is a commercial numbering system. Ticket numbers are merely the manufacturer’s reference numbers for the size of a given thread.
The Metric Count, Cotton Count and Denier Systems use ticket numbering system to give an easy approximation of the specific size of the finished thread.

Depends on the nature of fiber as well as thread making process, ticket numbers will vary as it is not the same as in another.  For example, Ticket 75 Cotton is not the same as Ticket 75 mono-filament thread.

For Tex Ticket Numbering:
To convert any Tex Number to a Ticket Number value: divide 1,000 by the Tex number and multiply by 3.  [ Tkt. = (1000/Tex No.) X 3 ]

For Metric Ticket Numbering:

They can simply denote:
Higher the ticket number, finer the thread.
Lower the ticket number, coarser the thread.

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Yarn Count | Thread Numbering System | Count Conversion Laws

Count: Yarns  as well as threads are expressed using number to specify them. Yarn count refers to the thickness of a yarn and is determined by its mass per unit length or length per unit mass. It is important to know various numbering systems and their relationships in understanding yarn and thread size specifications. Yarn counting system is of two types. They are -

Direct Counting System (Length fixed but weight variable):

• Tex 
• Denier
• Jute Count

Indirect Counting System (Weight fixed but length variable):

• English
• Metric
• Worsted

Tex: The yarn number or count in the Tex system is the weight in grams of 1000m or 1 km of yarn.

Denier: The yarn count in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m or 9 km of yarn.

Pounds per Spyndle: The yarn count in pounds per spindle is the weight in pounds of 14,400yards of yarn. This counting system is commonly known as jute count.

English: It is defined as the number of hanks (840 yards) per pounds. It is denoted by Ne.

Metric: It is defined as the number of hanks (1000 m) per kg. It is defined by Nm.

Worsted: It is defined as the number of hanks (560 yards) per pounds.

Lea Count  = 48/ (Pounds/Spyndle)

Usually, Metric count is used to describe synthetic, spun and corespun yarn and  thread while English count is used to specify cotton yarn and thread. Filament or spandex yarn and threads are normally expressed with Decitex or Denier.

As these counts are used frequently therefore see the below table for better understanding

Count Conversion Laws:

Using the table below will enable you to perform a simple conversion from one system to another. 

Yarn Count | Thread Numbering System | Count Conversion Laws

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Count: Yarns  as well as threads are expressed using number to specify them. Yarn count refers to the thickness of a yarn and is determined by its mass per unit length or length per unit mass. It is important to know various numbering systems and their relationships in understanding yarn and thread size specifications. Yarn counting system is of two types. They are -

Direct Counting System (Length fixed but weight variable):

• Tex 
• Denier
• Jute Count

Indirect Counting System (Weight fixed but length variable):

• English
• Metric
• Worsted

Tex: The yarn number or count in the Tex system is the weight in grams of 1000m or 1 km of yarn.

Denier: The yarn count in the denier system is the weight in grams of 9000m or 9 km of yarn.

Pounds per Spyndle: The yarn count in pounds per spindle is the weight in pounds of 14,400yards of yarn. This counting system is commonly known as jute count.

English: It is defined as the number of hanks (840 yards) per pounds. It is denoted by Ne.

Metric: It is defined as the number of hanks (1000 m) per kg. It is defined by Nm.

Worsted: It is defined as the number of hanks (560 yards) per pounds.

Lea Count  = 48/ (Pounds/Spyndle)

Usually, Metric count is used to describe synthetic, spun and corespun yarn and  thread while English count is used to specify cotton yarn and thread. Filament or spandex yarn and threads are normally expressed with Decitex or Denier.

As these counts are used frequently therefore see the below table for better understanding

Count Conversion Laws:

Using the table below will enable you to perform a simple conversion from one system to another. 

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