Textile Dyeing Technology | Fiber, Yarn, Fabric or Garment Dyeing

Dyeing: It is the process of making colorful the substances treated as textiles like as fiber, yarn, fabric as well as garment. Dyestuffs give color to the material onto which they have been anchored by selectively retaining some of the wavelengths out of the light falling upon the surface. Different types of dyestuffs are used to dye specific fiber or yarn according to the feature and nature of both fiber and dyestuffs. Wavelength of light absorbed is 400-750nm.

Theory of Dyeing:

The forces which anchor dyestuffs molecules to textile fibers are complex and the study of them has attracted many investigators. The process consists of three stages which are -

• Migration of the dye from the solution to the interface accompanied by adsorption on the surface of the fiber.
• Diffusion of he dye from the surface towards the centre of the fiber.
• The anchoring of the dye molecules by covalent or hydrogen bonds, other forces of a physical nature.

Chromophore: Every dyestuffs contains chromophore group in its chemical structure. The chemical compound which contains azo, nitro or keto group in its structure they are so called chromophore group. These are the main component of dyestuffs cause of they are color bearing group. Dyes as well as pigments contain this same group.

Auxochrome: Only dyestuffs contain this group other than pigment. The chemical compound which contain amino, carboxilic or sulphone group in their chemical structure are commonly known as auxochrome group. These are also known as color increasing group.

Hue: Hue is the word by which we can perceive the color. By virtue of it we can think of as describing color. Red, Green or Blue.

Value (lightness): describes overall intensity to how light or dark a color is. It is the only dimension of color that may exist by itself.

Chroma (Saturation): may be defined as the strength or dominance of the hue. On the outer edge of the hue wheel are the intensely saturated hues.Towards the center of the color wheel, no hue dominates and they becomes less and less saturated.

Shade: It means the deepness of color or concentration of color where maximum percent of colors are used to make a deeper shade. Usually .5-1.5% is treated as light shade, 1.5 - 2.5 is treated as medium shade and above 2.5% is treated as deep shade.

Tinctorial Power: It is the property of any dye which gives more or less reactivity capability to produce deep to light shade with the same amount of chemicals as well as dyestuffs.

Common Dyestuffs 

• Direct dye (Specially to cotton)
• Acid dye ( Affinity to Protein Fiber)
• Basic dye ( Affinity to jute fiber)
• Vat dye (Best for cotton)
• Reactive dye (Without manufactured fiber apply to all)
• Disperse dye (Volatile dye use to hydrophobic fibers)
• Azoic dye (Cotton, Wool, Silk)
• Sulpher dye (Only black shade to all fiber)

Color material can be imparted at all the stages like fiber, yarn, fabric or garment dyeing. Now garments dyeing is becoming popular among teenagers and ladies.

Textile Dyeing Technology | Fiber, Yarn, Fabric or Garment Dyeing

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Dyeing: It is the process of making colorful the substances treated as textiles like as fiber, yarn, fabric as well as garment. Dyestuffs give color to the material onto which they have been anchored by selectively retaining some of the wavelengths out of the light falling upon the surface. Different types of dyestuffs are used to dye specific fiber or yarn according to the feature and nature of both fiber and dyestuffs. Wavelength of light absorbed is 400-750nm.

Theory of Dyeing:

The forces which anchor dyestuffs molecules to textile fibers are complex and the study of them has attracted many investigators. The process consists of three stages which are -

• Migration of the dye from the solution to the interface accompanied by adsorption on the surface of the fiber.
• Diffusion of he dye from the surface towards the centre of the fiber.
• The anchoring of the dye molecules by covalent or hydrogen bonds, other forces of a physical nature.

Chromophore: Every dyestuffs contains chromophore group in its chemical structure. The chemical compound which contains azo, nitro or keto group in its structure they are so called chromophore group. These are the main component of dyestuffs cause of they are color bearing group. Dyes as well as pigments contain this same group.

Auxochrome: Only dyestuffs contain this group other than pigment. The chemical compound which contain amino, carboxilic or sulphone group in their chemical structure are commonly known as auxochrome group. These are also known as color increasing group.

Hue: Hue is the word by which we can perceive the color. By virtue of it we can think of as describing color. Red, Green or Blue.

Value (lightness): describes overall intensity to how light or dark a color is. It is the only dimension of color that may exist by itself.

Chroma (Saturation): may be defined as the strength or dominance of the hue. On the outer edge of the hue wheel are the intensely saturated hues.Towards the center of the color wheel, no hue dominates and they becomes less and less saturated.

Shade: It means the deepness of color or concentration of color where maximum percent of colors are used to make a deeper shade. Usually .5-1.5% is treated as light shade, 1.5 - 2.5 is treated as medium shade and above 2.5% is treated as deep shade.

Tinctorial Power: It is the property of any dye which gives more or less reactivity capability to produce deep to light shade with the same amount of chemicals as well as dyestuffs.

Common Dyestuffs 

• Direct dye (Specially to cotton)
• Acid dye ( Affinity to Protein Fiber)
• Basic dye ( Affinity to jute fiber)
• Vat dye (Best for cotton)
• Reactive dye (Without manufactured fiber apply to all)
• Disperse dye (Volatile dye use to hydrophobic fibers)
• Azoic dye (Cotton, Wool, Silk)
• Sulpher dye (Only black shade to all fiber)

Color material can be imparted at all the stages like fiber, yarn, fabric or garment dyeing. Now garments dyeing is becoming popular among teenagers and ladies.

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What is Tinting, Over Dyeing, Dip Dyeing and Tie Dyeing ? - Garments Dyeing

Tinting

Tinting is one kind of dyeing in case of garment dyeing. When full fashioned garments need to dye up, called garments dyeing where tinting is a process to complete the garments dyeing or garments washing to achieve final desired shade. Traditionally tinting is done with direct dye or reactive dye. During denim washing, after completing basic washing, some tint is added to the dye bath before softening process to make it somewhat bluer, yellower, greener, redder or any color to match the wash target, this phenomena is commonly known as tinting. For tinting direct dye is popular than reactive dye.

Over Dyeing

Garment over dye is another technique to get desired color on fully fashioned cloths. Some colorful twill garments are frequently changed into different color from basic color then over dyeing technique is applied. This dyeing is done over any dyed as well as white garments that is why it so called over dyeing. Garments made from 100% cotton are only can be applied to over dyeing.

Dip Dyeing

Dip dyeing is a new technique to produce unique design on garments. 100% cotton yarns made garment can be applied to dip dyeing. Preparing a dyeing bath with direct or reactive dye where garments are to be dipped to a certain area as per requirements. Depends on depth of shade dipping time will be fixed. Usually 5 to 7 times a garments is dipped into dye-bath and rinsing is done. Then successive after dyeing treatments are to be done for color fixation and finally curing would be done. Hanger is used to grip the garments and uniform dipping into bath. Dip dyeing garments can give

more unique and aesthetic looking but bulk production is not much workable due to some limitations.

Tie Dyeing

Garments tie dyeing is a modern name as similar to resist style of printing or batik printing. This process typically consists of folding, twisting, pleating, or crumpling fabric or a garment and binding with string or rubber bands, followed by application of dyestuffs. Color particles only allow to penetrate to the open fabric areas remaining white the tied portion. The manipulations of the fabric prior to application of dye are called resists, as they partially or completely prevent the applied dye from coloring the fabric.

What is Tinting, Over Dyeing, Dip Dyeing and Tie Dyeing ? - Garments Dyeing

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Tinting

Tinting is one kind of dyeing in case of garment dyeing. When full fashioned garments need to dye up, called garments dyeing where tinting is a process to complete the garments dyeing or garments washing to achieve final desired shade. Traditionally tinting is done with direct dye or reactive dye. During denim washing, after completing basic washing, some tint is added to the dye bath before softening process to make it somewhat bluer, yellower, greener, redder or any color to match the wash target, this phenomena is commonly known as tinting. For tinting direct dye is popular than reactive dye.

Over Dyeing

Garment over dye is another technique to get desired color on fully fashioned cloths. Some colorful twill garments are frequently changed into different color from basic color then over dyeing technique is applied. This dyeing is done over any dyed as well as white garments that is why it so called over dyeing. Garments made from 100% cotton are only can be applied to over dyeing.

Dip Dyeing

Dip dyeing is a new technique to produce unique design on garments. 100% cotton yarns made garment can be applied to dip dyeing. Preparing a dyeing bath with direct or reactive dye where garments are to be dipped to a certain area as per requirements. Depends on depth of shade dipping time will be fixed. Usually 5 to 7 times a garments is dipped into dye-bath and rinsing is done. Then successive after dyeing treatments are to be done for color fixation and finally curing would be done. Hanger is used to grip the garments and uniform dipping into bath. Dip dyeing garments can give

more unique and aesthetic looking but bulk production is not much workable due to some limitations.

Tie Dyeing

Garments tie dyeing is a modern name as similar to resist style of printing or batik printing. This process typically consists of folding, twisting, pleating, or crumpling fabric or a garment and binding with string or rubber bands, followed by application of dyestuffs. Color particles only allow to penetrate to the open fabric areas remaining white the tied portion. The manipulations of the fabric prior to application of dye are called resists, as they partially or completely prevent the applied dye from coloring the fabric.

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Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Washing

Dry process in case of denim washing is now very common, buyers frequently ask for it because of new trend of fashion. To create an old-vintage look on denim pants, jackets or trousers different types of dry processes apply before basic washing. The common dry processes are mentioned as below.

• HAND BRUSH
• WHISKER
• 3D WHISKER
• CRINKLE
• 3D WRINKLE
• CHEVRON
• PATCH GRINDING
• HEM GRINDING
• TACKING
• NICKING
• PP SPRAY
• HIGHLIGHTING
• RESIN
• CURING

PP(KMnO4) spray

Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about the potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on the blasted area of jeans garment with the help of a normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on the garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for the next process.

It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bi-sulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are available in the market for the neutralization process like sodium meta bi-sulphate selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area.

Sand Blast

Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the affected appears are very similar to the worn out jeans.

Sand blast provides a very uniform result which cannot be achieved with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect that is blended with such a beauty that it has no difference with natural effects.

Destroy & Grinding

distressing or grinding is the process of destruction on jeans form edges of the garment. When we look at old jeans we find it destroyed from the edges of pockets, fly area, belt and bottom. This used effect can be created on jeans by grinding and is of key importance in high fashion garments.

Grinding is done of garments by pen type of stone tools. It can be done in mid of the wash process. In many workshops it is done before any wash process as a first process after stitching. Stone tools similar to grinders used in wood and stone industry are utilized to work on garments with a few amendments to their design.

Tacking/Tagging

Tacking or more commonly tag pinning is a very in fashion style in denim garment in these days. In this process the effect is created by swift tag machines with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get contrast.

Usually tag pin machines are used to attach tag pins to garment. The procedure is very simple and proceeds as; garment is folded on required area and tacked through folds.

Hand Sand

Sand ballasting with paper, commonly known as scrapping is the most widely used process for creating the blasting effect. It is usually done by mounting the garment on rubber balloons. After mounting the garment air balloon is filled with air to expose the area to operate. It is important to fill the pressure.

Hand sand is the step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get the distressed look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or its can be overall / global application as per the Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above , higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In the garment industry from 220 , 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.

Ripping, Pilling & Cuts

These effects are created where to copy a real worn out and roughly used jeans. These are created by using sharp edge tool line clippers, blades and knives.

Warp yarn is cut by a knife and the white weft yarn is left in place to create a beautiful worn out effect. The garment with cuts is then washed in washers to reveal the white the white thread. This makes the horizontal white lines of weft and if some dye is added to wash bath it will add more beauty to the garment. The secret is the cuts are always kept weft wise i.e. in horizontal to the garment. This will keep the weft in place and warp will be removed in the washing process. If it lets the warp is cut then the only thing you get after wash is a big hole.

3D Whiskers

Resin ( Formaldehyde free ) being used for achieving 3D effect ( 3 Dimensional ), Rigid Look etc. This process can be done by spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin, Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution in right combination according to the fabric strength & desired effect needed.

After application of resin solution in right proportion, make manual designing as needed on the thigh, hip & back knee area to get 3Dimentional effect. After making it , it should be manually dried with hot press or hair dryer & then must

be cured in oven at right temperature, time as mentioned in resin product manual.

Different Types of Dry Process for Denim Washing

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Dry process in case of denim washing is now very common, buyers frequently ask for it because of new trend of fashion. To create an old-vintage look on denim pants, jackets or trousers different types of dry processes apply before basic washing. The common dry processes are mentioned as below.

• HAND BRUSH
• WHISKER
• 3D WHISKER
• CRINKLE
• 3D WRINKLE
• CHEVRON
• PATCH GRINDING
• HEM GRINDING
• TACKING
• NICKING
• PP SPRAY
• HIGHLIGHTING
• RESIN
• CURING

PP(KMnO4) spray

Potassium permanganate spray is done on jeans to take a bright effect on sand blast area. One important thing about the potassium permanganate spray is, this is usually a sporting process to increase the effect of sand blast. Potassium permanganate solution is sprayed on the blasted area of jeans garment with the help of a normal spray gun. This potassium permanganate spray appears pink on the garment when fresh and turns to muddy brown on drying. The garment is hanged in open to dry after potassium permanganate spray and when the potassium permanganate turns its colors completely then it is considered to ready for the next process.

It is always followed by neutralization process. Sodium Meta bi-sulphate is most commonly used neutralizer. A number of products are available in the market for the neutralization process like sodium meta bi-sulphate selected on the bases of effect required on blasted area.

Sand Blast

Sand blasting is the process of scrubbing off the garment by blowing high speed air mixed with very fine particles of sand. This is a very successful and most widely used process for fashion articles. When the surface area of the garment is blasted, white cotton appears beneath the blasted area and the affected appears are very similar to the worn out jeans.

Sand blast provides a very uniform result which cannot be achieved with its alternates. Its specialty is the merging effect that is blended with such a beauty that it has no difference with natural effects.

Destroy & Grinding

distressing or grinding is the process of destruction on jeans form edges of the garment. When we look at old jeans we find it destroyed from the edges of pockets, fly area, belt and bottom. This used effect can be created on jeans by grinding and is of key importance in high fashion garments.

Grinding is done of garments by pen type of stone tools. It can be done in mid of the wash process. In many workshops it is done before any wash process as a first process after stitching. Stone tools similar to grinders used in wood and stone industry are utilized to work on garments with a few amendments to their design.

Tacking/Tagging

Tacking or more commonly tag pinning is a very in fashion style in denim garment in these days. In this process the effect is created by swift tag machines with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get contrast.

Usually tag pin machines are used to attach tag pins to garment. The procedure is very simple and proceeds as; garment is folded on required area and tacked through folds.

Hand Sand

Sand ballasting with paper, commonly known as scrapping is the most widely used process for creating the blasting effect. It is usually done by mounting the garment on rubber balloons. After mounting the garment air balloon is filled with air to expose the area to operate. It is important to fill the pressure.

Hand sand is the step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get the distressed look. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or its can be overall / global application as per the Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above , higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In the garment industry from 220 , 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used.

Ripping, Pilling & Cuts

These effects are created where to copy a real worn out and roughly used jeans. These are created by using sharp edge tool line clippers, blades and knives.

Warp yarn is cut by a knife and the white weft yarn is left in place to create a beautiful worn out effect. The garment with cuts is then washed in washers to reveal the white the white thread. This makes the horizontal white lines of weft and if some dye is added to wash bath it will add more beauty to the garment. The secret is the cuts are always kept weft wise i.e. in horizontal to the garment. This will keep the weft in place and warp will be removed in the washing process. If it lets the warp is cut then the only thing you get after wash is a big hole.

3D Whiskers

Resin ( Formaldehyde free ) being used for achieving 3D effect ( 3 Dimensional ), Rigid Look etc. This process can be done by spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin, Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution in right combination according to the fabric strength & desired effect needed.

After application of resin solution in right proportion, make manual designing as needed on the thigh, hip & back knee area to get 3Dimentional effect. After making it , it should be manually dried with hot press or hair dryer & then must

be cured in oven at right temperature, time as mentioned in resin product manual.

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Dip dyeing is becoming more popular in Garments dyeing

Garments Dyeing: Garment dyeing is a process of imparting color materials to fully fashioned garments like as shirts, pants, twill garments, jackets, pullover, T-shirt, Polo shirt, sweaters etc. The garments are usually dyed before finishing with various trimmings or accessories. In textile coloration it is not so far initiated in our country but it is more popular outside our country like as France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Canada, North America, turkey, Israel, Japan, USA, Uk, China etc.

Garment dyeing is an opposition of the conventional method of making garments from previously dyed fabrics. Knitted fabrics, twill weave fabrics and/or other woven fabrics made from cotton yarns are subjected to garment dyeing.  Garments made of cotton material are easy to dye up but besides cotton several other fabrics can be found in whole or partially made of wool, silk, nylon, polyester or acrylic are subjected to garment dyeing.

Dip Dyeing: In garments dyeing, dip dyeing is becoming more popular day by day as the fashion trend and customer demand. Due to cheap and easy process it is as popular to the manufacturers.  It is also as called gradient dyeing. It is the process, the fully fashioned garments are arranged to dip into a dye bath (vessel, bucket, bowl etc) accordingly a pre-determined area or height. This process runs again and again. According to demand, garments are to be soaked into dye bath up to a certain limit for enough time. To dye up the garment as deeper shade to light shade from bottom to top the gradient time will be maintained for certain area of the garment.


Process flowchart for DIP Dyeing

•  Scouring (80°C)
• Neutralization (With Acetic Acid)
• Enzyme (At 45°C Temp and PH-4.5-5.5)
• Dyeing (90°C Temp for 3-5 Minutes)
• After Treatment (Fixing Agent)
• Softener (Commercial Softening Agent)
• Bath Drop

Normally garment dyeing runs with two types dyestuffs available in the market.

    1. Direct Dyes
    2. Reactive Dyes
    a) Hot Brad
    b) Cold Brand

For dip dyeing we use direct dye though it has low color fastness property, moreover it takes less time for color fixation

 Necessary Items:

•     Dye Bath ( Vessel, bucket, bowl or any other container)
•     Hanger
•     Washing Machine
•     Stirrer
•     Rubber gloves

Pretreatment: As the fabric is not ready for dyeing after making cloths, it is treated with caustic soda and peroxide solution to perform pretreatment process which helps to make it more absorbent and free from natural color as well as other impurities.






Recipe:

• Caustic Soda (NaOH)-2gm/l
• Per-Oxide (H2O2)-4gm/l
• Detergent-1gm/l
• Temp-80°C
• Time-15min

Working Procedure: A lot of garments are now taken into the dyeing machine for easy performing the pretreatment process (Good to know that, scouring, dyeing or any normal wash can also be done into a washing machine). Now add Caustic Soda, Hydrogen peroxide and Detergents according to the above recipe. Now maintain the liquor ratio at 1:10 at 80°C. Now perform this treatment for 15 minutes. Well scoured garments are treated as more absorbent, where color permanency will be high. In this process the garments are to be more absorbent, removing the natural or unwanted colors to make genuine white, oils as well as other impurities. Good scouring plays an important role during dyeing, color fastness and appearance. The whole materials are now subjected to rinse wash to remove the caustic and other chemicals. Now the garments are neutralized with Acetic Acid so that any of the caustic soda does not exist with the material. The PH of Acetic acid should be kept into 4.5 to 5.

Note: If the garments are made with zipper of cotton tape frequently be torn during the scouring process, so nylon or polyester tape is recommended to use here.

Enzyme: After scouring process the full quantity of garment needs to treat with enzyme which will help to remove the hairiness and projectile fibers as well as make the garments ready for dyeing. You can use Acid enzyme as 2gm/l at 45-55°C for 15 minutes. After enzymatic treatment one or two rinse wash to be done for washing it properly. (PH during enzymatic treatment keeps in 4.5 to 5)

Recipe: We have used this for dyeing 380 Pcs baby girls shorts.

• Direct Dye-355gm
• Salt (Glubar Salt)-10gm/l
• Labeling & Wetting Agent-1gm/l
• Water-2500L
• Temp-95°C
• Time-5min

Working Procedure:  Make the dye bath ready with direct dye as normal dyeing procedure. At first we will be sure the garment is made from scoured and bleached fabric, otherwise scouring or pre treatment will have to complete. After adding dyes, salt and wetting agents it needs to stir to make the dye bath properly. For getting more color fastness and reduce fixation hours we can use some binding agents as we need. The temperature of dye bath remains around 90-95°C.

The garment which is used to dyeing need to attach with hanger or something else to hang it from, then water uses to wet the garment properly before taking it underneath the dye bath. Now start to place the garment into the dye bath as desired height. You may require helps in doing this so as not to spill the dye everywhere. Once the garment has been soaking in the dye bath for long enough time then remove it carefully so that color spot does not transfer to the non-dyed portion. If so, run the garment, from non-dyed section to dyed section, under warm water until water runs clear. This will remove any excess dye from the garment. Continue the process till your desired shade is developed and maintain the shade at different areas of the garment. To get as deeper to lighter shade at bottom to top you can soak the garment into dye bath as long enough time. The process of dip dyeing is not so crucial but it takes extra precautions, care and many more times. During dyeing it will take spraying some water to the garment to wet it and helps to absorb colors by the material.


Once your desired shade produced it needs to take it into a washing machine.

After Treatment: It is the process usually doing after dyeing for color fixation and color permanency as well as improving the color fastness. This is a chemical treatment so as for this a typical recipe is given below.

Recipe:

• Commercial Fixer-0.5gm/l
• Softener (Cationic)-0.5 gm/l
• Temp-40°C
• Time-3-5 minutes
• M:L ratio- 1:10

Working Procedure: After completing the dyeing it will be required some process to have sufficient dye molecules penetration to the most inner part of the fibers. In the dye bath now adds the fixing agent (Commercial Fixer) according to the recipe. Temperature in this bath will keep at 40°C and treatment time is 3-5 minutes. By this treatment the material will be treated as finally colored. Most of the dye particles will finally enter into the core of fibers and the fiber will swell at some extent so that the pores of fibers will be reduced and dye materials cannot come out from the innermost part. It will increase the color fastness of the materials. Before this treatment is started a rinse wash will be done to remove extra dyes which adhere with the materials and after this process also another rinse will be done to remove unfixable dyes or sediment dyes at the bottom of the dye bath. Now softener is added to the bath to make the material softer, improving hand feel and brightness.

Now just hanging up the garments for 20 minutes to squeeze extra water (Do not use hydro extractor to reduce staining or uneven color adhering). You can use oven to dry the garments as well, you can get prominence color performance without staining or shade variation. Now the garments are cured at curing chamber at 150-200°C to dry finally and properly. You can use dryer for a while at the final stage.

Over Dyeing in Garments: When a fully fashioned garment is dyed for another color though it can be used as wearing dress, this technique is so called over dyeing. Usually coloration is performed over a consisting color on to a garment is referred as garments over dyeing. As an example when a purple colored fully ready garments are supposed to be subjected for red color it may call as over dyeing. There is a common concept among the garments trade peoples, when a garment is dyed with its whole area is known as garments dyeing but when color imparts fully or partially over garments can be defined as garments over dyeing, because it could be used as wearing dress before this coloration.  In garments dyeing normally two types of dyestuffs are used such as Direct Dye and Reactive Dye. The garments which are required to dye up should be made of cotton fiber though many of them are now produced with combination of other fibers as blends. Dyeing procedure of over dyeing is as like as other normal dyeing arrangements but here some extra precautions and care must be taken. At present the garments washing plants are capable to make the garments over dyeing. If the garments which are white in color and can use as dress are subjected for dyeing is also known as over dyeing.

Garments Tie Dyeing: Tie means make a knot to garments different places as if they cannot come in contact with dyes or chemicals during dyeing. It is as like as batik printing method. A garment is tied at different places prior to dyeing; as a result whole garments will be colorful remaining the tied places un-dyed. Indeed this technique is known as garments tie dyeing and now is becoming so popular in the world garments trade.

Dip dyeing is becoming more popular in Garments dyeing

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Garments Dyeing: Garment dyeing is a process of imparting color materials to fully fashioned garments like as shirts, pants, twill garments, jackets, pullover, T-shirt, Polo shirt, sweaters etc. The garments are usually dyed before finishing with various trimmings or accessories. In textile coloration it is not so far initiated in our country but it is more popular outside our country like as France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Canada, North America, turkey, Israel, Japan, USA, Uk, China etc.

Garment dyeing is an opposition of the conventional method of making garments from previously dyed fabrics. Knitted fabrics, twill weave fabrics and/or other woven fabrics made from cotton yarns are subjected to garment dyeing.  Garments made of cotton material are easy to dye up but besides cotton several other fabrics can be found in whole or partially made of wool, silk, nylon, polyester or acrylic are subjected to garment dyeing.

Dip Dyeing: In garments dyeing, dip dyeing is becoming more popular day by day as the fashion trend and customer demand. Due to cheap and easy process it is as popular to the manufacturers.  It is also as called gradient dyeing. It is the process, the fully fashioned garments are arranged to dip into a dye bath (vessel, bucket, bowl etc) accordingly a pre-determined area or height. This process runs again and again. According to demand, garments are to be soaked into dye bath up to a certain limit for enough time. To dye up the garment as deeper shade to light shade from bottom to top the gradient time will be maintained for certain area of the garment.


Process flowchart for DIP Dyeing

•  Scouring (80°C)
• Neutralization (With Acetic Acid)
• Enzyme (At 45°C Temp and PH-4.5-5.5)
• Dyeing (90°C Temp for 3-5 Minutes)
• After Treatment (Fixing Agent)
• Softener (Commercial Softening Agent)
• Bath Drop

Normally garment dyeing runs with two types dyestuffs available in the market.

    1. Direct Dyes
    2. Reactive Dyes
    a) Hot Brad
    b) Cold Brand

For dip dyeing we use direct dye though it has low color fastness property, moreover it takes less time for color fixation

 Necessary Items:

•     Dye Bath ( Vessel, bucket, bowl or any other container)
•     Hanger
•     Washing Machine
•     Stirrer
•     Rubber gloves

Pretreatment: As the fabric is not ready for dyeing after making cloths, it is treated with caustic soda and peroxide solution to perform pretreatment process which helps to make it more absorbent and free from natural color as well as other impurities.






Recipe:

• Caustic Soda (NaOH)-2gm/l
• Per-Oxide (H2O2)-4gm/l
• Detergent-1gm/l
• Temp-80°C
• Time-15min

Working Procedure: A lot of garments are now taken into the dyeing machine for easy performing the pretreatment process (Good to know that, scouring, dyeing or any normal wash can also be done into a washing machine). Now add Caustic Soda, Hydrogen peroxide and Detergents according to the above recipe. Now maintain the liquor ratio at 1:10 at 80°C. Now perform this treatment for 15 minutes. Well scoured garments are treated as more absorbent, where color permanency will be high. In this process the garments are to be more absorbent, removing the natural or unwanted colors to make genuine white, oils as well as other impurities. Good scouring plays an important role during dyeing, color fastness and appearance. The whole materials are now subjected to rinse wash to remove the caustic and other chemicals. Now the garments are neutralized with Acetic Acid so that any of the caustic soda does not exist with the material. The PH of Acetic acid should be kept into 4.5 to 5.

Note: If the garments are made with zipper of cotton tape frequently be torn during the scouring process, so nylon or polyester tape is recommended to use here.

Enzyme: After scouring process the full quantity of garment needs to treat with enzyme which will help to remove the hairiness and projectile fibers as well as make the garments ready for dyeing. You can use Acid enzyme as 2gm/l at 45-55°C for 15 minutes. After enzymatic treatment one or two rinse wash to be done for washing it properly. (PH during enzymatic treatment keeps in 4.5 to 5)

Recipe: We have used this for dyeing 380 Pcs baby girls shorts.

• Direct Dye-355gm
• Salt (Glubar Salt)-10gm/l
• Labeling & Wetting Agent-1gm/l
• Water-2500L
• Temp-95°C
• Time-5min

Working Procedure:  Make the dye bath ready with direct dye as normal dyeing procedure. At first we will be sure the garment is made from scoured and bleached fabric, otherwise scouring or pre treatment will have to complete. After adding dyes, salt and wetting agents it needs to stir to make the dye bath properly. For getting more color fastness and reduce fixation hours we can use some binding agents as we need. The temperature of dye bath remains around 90-95°C.

The garment which is used to dyeing need to attach with hanger or something else to hang it from, then water uses to wet the garment properly before taking it underneath the dye bath. Now start to place the garment into the dye bath as desired height. You may require helps in doing this so as not to spill the dye everywhere. Once the garment has been soaking in the dye bath for long enough time then remove it carefully so that color spot does not transfer to the non-dyed portion. If so, run the garment, from non-dyed section to dyed section, under warm water until water runs clear. This will remove any excess dye from the garment. Continue the process till your desired shade is developed and maintain the shade at different areas of the garment. To get as deeper to lighter shade at bottom to top you can soak the garment into dye bath as long enough time. The process of dip dyeing is not so crucial but it takes extra precautions, care and many more times. During dyeing it will take spraying some water to the garment to wet it and helps to absorb colors by the material.


Once your desired shade produced it needs to take it into a washing machine.

After Treatment: It is the process usually doing after dyeing for color fixation and color permanency as well as improving the color fastness. This is a chemical treatment so as for this a typical recipe is given below.

Recipe:

• Commercial Fixer-0.5gm/l
• Softener (Cationic)-0.5 gm/l
• Temp-40°C
• Time-3-5 minutes
• M:L ratio- 1:10

Working Procedure: After completing the dyeing it will be required some process to have sufficient dye molecules penetration to the most inner part of the fibers. In the dye bath now adds the fixing agent (Commercial Fixer) according to the recipe. Temperature in this bath will keep at 40°C and treatment time is 3-5 minutes. By this treatment the material will be treated as finally colored. Most of the dye particles will finally enter into the core of fibers and the fiber will swell at some extent so that the pores of fibers will be reduced and dye materials cannot come out from the innermost part. It will increase the color fastness of the materials. Before this treatment is started a rinse wash will be done to remove extra dyes which adhere with the materials and after this process also another rinse will be done to remove unfixable dyes or sediment dyes at the bottom of the dye bath. Now softener is added to the bath to make the material softer, improving hand feel and brightness.

Now just hanging up the garments for 20 minutes to squeeze extra water (Do not use hydro extractor to reduce staining or uneven color adhering). You can use oven to dry the garments as well, you can get prominence color performance without staining or shade variation. Now the garments are cured at curing chamber at 150-200°C to dry finally and properly. You can use dryer for a while at the final stage.

Over Dyeing in Garments: When a fully fashioned garment is dyed for another color though it can be used as wearing dress, this technique is so called over dyeing. Usually coloration is performed over a consisting color on to a garment is referred as garments over dyeing. As an example when a purple colored fully ready garments are supposed to be subjected for red color it may call as over dyeing. There is a common concept among the garments trade peoples, when a garment is dyed with its whole area is known as garments dyeing but when color imparts fully or partially over garments can be defined as garments over dyeing, because it could be used as wearing dress before this coloration.  In garments dyeing normally two types of dyestuffs are used such as Direct Dye and Reactive Dye. The garments which are required to dye up should be made of cotton fiber though many of them are now produced with combination of other fibers as blends. Dyeing procedure of over dyeing is as like as other normal dyeing arrangements but here some extra precautions and care must be taken. At present the garments washing plants are capable to make the garments over dyeing. If the garments which are white in color and can use as dress are subjected for dyeing is also known as over dyeing.

Garments Tie Dyeing: Tie means make a knot to garments different places as if they cannot come in contact with dyes or chemicals during dyeing. It is as like as batik printing method. A garment is tied at different places prior to dyeing; as a result whole garments will be colorful remaining the tied places un-dyed. Indeed this technique is known as garments tie dyeing and now is becoming so popular in the world garments trade.

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