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Showing posts with label Certification. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Certification. Show all posts
Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is a non-profit organizations aims to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment and better for the sectors future. Goal of BCI is aligned to the goals of SDGs as it embraces the SDGs and is inspired to be part of a global community working to make the world a better place. The Better Cotton Standard System covers the main three elements of sustainability : Environmental, social and economic. Each of the elements from the principles and criteria to the monitoring mechanisms which show results and impact - work together to support the better cotton standard system.


BCI standard was initiated in the year 2005 and was recognized by GAP INC, Organic Exchange(Textile Exchange), H&M, ICCO, IFAP, IFC, IKEA, Oxfam, PAN UK and WWF.

BCI is the largest cotton sustainability programme in the globe. It has 1.3 millions licensed farmers in 21 countries to whom BCI and its partners provide training on more sustainable agricultural practices.








BCI supports the farmers to improve the poor environmental management and working conditions to produce cotton.Licensed BCI Farmers produce cotton in a way that care for the environment, minimizing the negative effects of fertilizers and pesticides and caring for water, soil health and natural habitats. BCI farmers also commit to decent work principles - conditions that support workers safety and well being.

BCI Farmers produced 3.3 million metric tonnes of BCI cotton in the 2016-17 which is enough to make 2.5 billion pairs of Jeans. Currently Better cotton accounts for 14% of global cotton production which is included the three BCI recognized equivalent Standards: CmiA(Africa), MyBMP(Australia) and ABR(Brazil).

SO far BCI has 1197 members spanning the cotton supply chain, 85 brands and retailers, 1039 suppliers and manufacturers, 32 producers organizations, 31 civil society member and 12 associate members.



Besides BCI, organic (GOTS & OCS) Fairtrade, myBMP(Australia), ABR(Brazil), Aid by Trade Foundation and some others work towards ensuring sustainable cotton production.








Principles and Criteria:

Betters cotton standard works based on seven important principles what their licensed farmers responsible to do:
  • minimize the harmful impact of crop protection practices
  • promote water stewardship
  • care for the health of the soil
  • enhance biodiversity and use land responsibly
  • care for and preserve fibre quality
  • promote decent work
  • operate an effective management system


Assurance Programme:

The Better Cotton Assurance Programme is a key component of the Better Cotton Standard System. It involves farmers participating in a continuous cycle of learning and improvement, and is the central mechanism for assessing whether farmers can grow and sell Better Cotton.

Chain of Custody(CoC):

The Better Cotton Chain of Custody (CoC) is the key framework that connects demand with supply of Better Cotton and helps to incentivize cotton farmers to adopt more sustainable practices.

The CoC refers to the chronological documentation, paper trail and electronic evidence that relates to the movement of Better Cotton products through the supply chain. This ensures the volume of Better Cotton claimed by BCI Retailer and Brand Members does not exceed the volume of Better Cotton produced by licensed BCI Farmers in any given time period, accounting for conversion rates.

Better Cotton Claims Framework:

It provides support to BCI members to make credible and positive claims about Better Cotton. This Claims Framework is is governed by the BCI Code of Practice, BCI Terms of Membership, and BCI Monitoring Protocol.

Outcome and Impact:

BCI standard is stringent to their commitments to measuring sustainability improvements everywhere of the cotton production. It has a aim of achieving 30% cotton will be produced in the way of BCI whereas currently it upholds 14% of the total amount produced. BCI standard works based on result indicator date which measure quantitatively differences between incensed BCI Farmers and non BCI Farmers in the same Geographical area.



Funding:
BCI Organization receives funding from three sources: earned income for services delivered; grants and donations from private and public funders; and volume-based fees and funding from brands. \

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Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) | Sustainable Cotton Production Standard

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Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is a non-profit organizations aims to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment and better for the sectors future. Goal of BCI is aligned to the goals of SDGs as it embraces the SDGs and is inspired to be part of a global community working to make the world a better place. The Better Cotton Standard System covers the main three elements of sustainability : Environmental, social and economic. Each of the elements from the principles and criteria to the monitoring mechanisms which show results and impact - work together to support the better cotton standard system.


BCI standard was initiated in the year 2005 and was recognized by GAP INC, Organic Exchange(Textile Exchange), H&M, ICCO, IFAP, IFC, IKEA, Oxfam, PAN UK and WWF.

BCI is the largest cotton sustainability programme in the globe. It has 1.3 millions licensed farmers in 21 countries to whom BCI and its partners provide training on more sustainable agricultural practices.








BCI supports the farmers to improve the poor environmental management and working conditions to produce cotton.Licensed BCI Farmers produce cotton in a way that care for the environment, minimizing the negative effects of fertilizers and pesticides and caring for water, soil health and natural habitats. BCI farmers also commit to decent work principles - conditions that support workers safety and well being.

BCI Farmers produced 3.3 million metric tonnes of BCI cotton in the 2016-17 which is enough to make 2.5 billion pairs of Jeans. Currently Better cotton accounts for 14% of global cotton production which is included the three BCI recognized equivalent Standards: CmiA(Africa), MyBMP(Australia) and ABR(Brazil).

SO far BCI has 1197 members spanning the cotton supply chain, 85 brands and retailers, 1039 suppliers and manufacturers, 32 producers organizations, 31 civil society member and 12 associate members.



Besides BCI, organic (GOTS & OCS) Fairtrade, myBMP(Australia), ABR(Brazil), Aid by Trade Foundation and some others work towards ensuring sustainable cotton production.








Principles and Criteria:

Betters cotton standard works based on seven important principles what their licensed farmers responsible to do:
  • minimize the harmful impact of crop protection practices
  • promote water stewardship
  • care for the health of the soil
  • enhance biodiversity and use land responsibly
  • care for and preserve fibre quality
  • promote decent work
  • operate an effective management system


Assurance Programme:

The Better Cotton Assurance Programme is a key component of the Better Cotton Standard System. It involves farmers participating in a continuous cycle of learning and improvement, and is the central mechanism for assessing whether farmers can grow and sell Better Cotton.

Chain of Custody(CoC):

The Better Cotton Chain of Custody (CoC) is the key framework that connects demand with supply of Better Cotton and helps to incentivize cotton farmers to adopt more sustainable practices.

The CoC refers to the chronological documentation, paper trail and electronic evidence that relates to the movement of Better Cotton products through the supply chain. This ensures the volume of Better Cotton claimed by BCI Retailer and Brand Members does not exceed the volume of Better Cotton produced by licensed BCI Farmers in any given time period, accounting for conversion rates.

Better Cotton Claims Framework:

It provides support to BCI members to make credible and positive claims about Better Cotton. This Claims Framework is is governed by the BCI Code of Practice, BCI Terms of Membership, and BCI Monitoring Protocol.

Outcome and Impact:

BCI standard is stringent to their commitments to measuring sustainability improvements everywhere of the cotton production. It has a aim of achieving 30% cotton will be produced in the way of BCI whereas currently it upholds 14% of the total amount produced. BCI standard works based on result indicator date which measure quantitatively differences between incensed BCI Farmers and non BCI Farmers in the same Geographical area.



Funding:
BCI Organization receives funding from three sources: earned income for services delivered; grants and donations from private and public funders; and volume-based fees and funding from brands. \

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Organic Content Standard (OCS) provides certificate to any non-food product that contains organic material 5-100 percent. It examines the presence and amount of organic material in a very final product and checks the other certification for the raw materials.

 It provides the assurance of organic content that claims by the seller or manufacturer. It provides a strong chain of custody system from the source of the organic raw material to the final product through certification. It depends on third party accreditation for transparent, consistent and comprehensive independent evaluation and verification of organic material claims on products.

The OCS label can be used only for the company who ensures the products actually contain organic material. This standard does not cover the certification of the raw material itself, which is verified independently of the production process certification. It also does not address processing inputs like chemicals, environmental aspects like energy or water usage, social issues, safety issues or any legal compliance. 

OCS certification is powered by Textile Exchange which is an international member supported non profit organization that was established in 2003 under the original name Organic Exchange. Later on 2010 it became Textile Exchange with the mission to inspire and equip people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain.

Principles of The OCS Certification:
  • The OCS provides third - party verification of organic material content in a product and options for corresponding consumer facing claims. It addresses the flow of product within and between companies, raw material verification, post harvest processing, manufacturing, packaging and labeling, storage, handling and shipping through the seller in the last business to business transaction.

  • The OCS requires all organizations to be certified beginning with post harvest processing sites. (The raw material farming company shall not be certified to both Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and OCS. If a farm is certified to OCS and wants to be certified to GOTS, it shall contact its responsible CB to terminate its OCS Scope Certificate prior tot he GOTS scope Certificate Issuance)

  • Raw materials or fibers producing companies have to be certified by an accredited certification body to comply with the USDA National Organic Program (NOP), Regulation (EC) 834/2007 or IFOAM family.( Testing for the presence of Genetically Modified Organisms (GMO) in the organic material shall be carried out by the certification body(CB) based on a risk assessment.)

  • The OCS allows "in-conversion" organic material as inputs if the applicable farming standard permit such certification.

  • All Organic materials entering the supply chain shall have a Transaction Certificate (TX) issued by the Certification Body.

  • The OCS may be used any product that contains non-food organic material (Any products being sold in the United States and making a reference to "Organic" on the label shall have the organic materials certified to the USDA NOP standard(As per USDA Policy).

  • The OCS Applies to products that contain 5% to 100% Organic material.

  • Buyers of the OCS product are responsible to set any requirement on the specific organic standards to which the input material should be certified.
A certificate of OCS look like below-
 


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Organic Content Standard (OCS) Certification | OCS 100 Standard

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Organic Content Standard (OCS) provides certificate to any non-food product that contains organic material 5-100 percent. It examines the presence and amount of organic material in a very final product and checks the other certification for the raw materials.

 It provides the assurance of organic content that claims by the seller or manufacturer. It provides a strong chain of custody system from the source of the organic raw material to the final product through certification. It depends on third party accreditation for transparent, consistent and comprehensive independent evaluation and verification of organic material claims on products.

The OCS label can be used only for the company who ensures the products actually contain organic material. This standard does not cover the certification of the raw material itself, which is verified independently of the production process certification. It also does not address processing inputs like chemicals, environmental aspects like energy or water usage, social issues, safety issues or any legal compliance. 

OCS certification is powered by Textile Exchange which is an international member supported non profit organization that was established in 2003 under the original name Organic Exchange. Later on 2010 it became Textile Exchange with the mission to inspire and equip people to accelerate sustainable practices in the textile value chain.

Principles of The OCS Certification:
  • The OCS provides third - party verification of organic material content in a product and options for corresponding consumer facing claims. It addresses the flow of product within and between companies, raw material verification, post harvest processing, manufacturing, packaging and labeling, storage, handling and shipping through the seller in the last business to business transaction.

  • The OCS requires all organizations to be certified beginning with post harvest processing sites. (The raw material farming company shall not be certified to both Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and OCS. If a farm is certified to OCS and wants to be certified to GOTS, it shall contact its responsible CB to terminate its OCS Scope Certificate prior tot he GOTS scope Certificate Issuance)

  • Raw materials or fibers producing companies have to be certified by an accredited certification body to comply with the USDA National Organic Program (NOP), Regulation (EC) 834/2007 or IFOAM family.( Testing for the presence of Genetically Modified Organisms (GMO) in the organic material shall be carried out by the certification body(CB) based on a risk assessment.)

  • The OCS allows "in-conversion" organic material as inputs if the applicable farming standard permit such certification.

  • All Organic materials entering the supply chain shall have a Transaction Certificate (TX) issued by the Certification Body.

  • The OCS may be used any product that contains non-food organic material (Any products being sold in the United States and making a reference to "Organic" on the label shall have the organic materials certified to the USDA NOP standard(As per USDA Policy).

  • The OCS Applies to products that contain 5% to 100% Organic material.

  • Buyers of the OCS product are responsible to set any requirement on the specific organic standards to which the input material should be certified.
A certificate of OCS look like below-
 


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Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is globally recognized standard for organic status of whole textile supply chain that limits the use of toxic substances, dyes and other chemicals inputs during the entire production processes of textiles. It is toughest standard giving organization of textile which is comprised of 4 leading member organizations namely OTA (USA), IVN (Germany), Soil Association (UK) and JOCA (Japan). 

It has demonstrated practical feasibility of organic textiles since it was introduced in the year 2006. GOTS ensure the organic criteria of textile supply chain from the harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labeling in accordance with providing the credible commitments to the customer.

It is the main goal of GOTS that end customer will believe the textiles have organic status when it is labelled by GOTS. This leading standard covers the harvesting of fibers and its processing, all kind of manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading and distribution of all kind of textile made from certified organic fibers.

This standard appreciates to produce any textiles in an individual way without the use of chemical inputs, the approach is to define criteria for low impact and residual natural or synthetic chemicals such as dyestuff, auxiliaries and finishes. GOTS sets requirements on working and social conditions that are equivalent to those of leading social sustainability standards. As the standard is also applied and monitored for entities in countries with developed and effectively applied social and labour legislation and collective agreements between employers and trade unions that conform with the universal standards of the international labour organization (ILO).

This certificate is accepted by all major markets in the world therefore the textile processors and manufacturers are enabled to buy and sell product with organic status to those markets.

There are two types of GOTS status as below-

A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade ‘organic’ must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres whereas a product with the label grade ‘made with organic’ must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres.

Assesment of Chemical inputs: All chemical inputs intended to be used to process GOTS goods are subjected to approval by a GOTS approved certifier ahead of thei usage. The following table lists chemical inputs that may be potentially used in conventional textile processing but that are explicitly prohibitted or retricted for environmental and toxicological reasons in all processing stages of GOTS labelled products.


Textile Fibers: GOTS accept the certification of fiber that claims organic status from IFOAM,USDA, National Organic Program (NOP), APEDA's National Program for Organic Production (NPOP), China Organic Standard GB/T19630. The certification body must have a valid and recognized accreditation for the standard it certifies against. Recognised accreditation are ISO 17065 accreditation, NOP accreditation, IFOAM accreditation and IFOAM Global Organic System accreditation.

Fiber Spinning: Yarn manufacturing by spinning allo the additives which meet the basic requirements as set by GOTS with the indication of prohibited chemical/processing involves. Any paraffin products used must be fully refined with a limited value of residual oil of 0.5%.

Sizing and Weaving/Knitting:
Here allowed sizing agents are all natural base as synthetic sizing materials are restricted with the exception of some special products. Allowed sizing materials include starch and its derivatives, other natural substances and CMC (Carboxy methyle Cellulose).

In case of any synthetic size materials can be used for no more than 25% of the total sizing in combination with natural substances only.

Knitting/weaving oils must not contain heavy metals, other inputs must be derived from natural source only.

Non Woven Manufacturing: Allowed non-woven manufacturing processing includes only mechanical compaction, webbing and entangling such as hydro entanglement.

Pre-treatments and other wet processing stages:
The chemicals inputs must meet the basic requirements sets by GOTS and must avoid prohibited or restricted chemicals. Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant.

  • Ammonia Treatment - Prohibited
  • Bleaches - Only oxygen base bleaches are allowed such as peroxides, ozone etc.
  • Washing - Detergents must not contain phosphates
  • Chlorination of Wools - Prohibited
  • Desizing - Allowed are GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) free enzymatic desizing and other auxiliaries.
  • Mechanical/Thermal Treatments - Allowed
  • Mercerizatin - Alkali must be recycled.

Dyeing/Printing: Selection of dyes and auxiliaries are restricted by GOTS. Allowed are natural dyes, synthetic dyes, pigments and auxiliaries that meet the basic requirements set BY GOTS. Dyes that are prone to allergic are prohibited such as disperse dye. Dyes containing heavy metals are prohibited. Some specific except for copper that permits up to 5% per weight in blue, green and turquoise dyestuff.

Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited. Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited


Additional Fiber Materials(Max 5% for organic label and 30% for made with organic label):
  • Conventional natural fibers except conventional cotton and angora hair.
  • Regenerated fibers from certified organic raw materials which are non - GMO.
  • Regenerated fibers like viscose or modal
  • Recycled synthetic fibers from pre or post consumer waste.
  • Virgin synthetic or polymer fibers
  • Stainless steel fibers and minerla fibers with exception of asbestos, carbon and silver fibers

Trims and Accessories: For any kind of trims or accessories allowed are natural materials including biotic material such as natural fiber, wood, leather, horn, bone, shell and non biotic material such as minerals, metals, stone. Also regenerated and synthetic materials are allowed in some cases.


Effluent Treatment Plant(ETP): Wastewater from all wet processing units must be treated in an internal or external functional wastewater treatment plant before discharging to environment. The applicable national and local legal requirements for waste water treatment including limit values with regard to pH, temperature, TOC< BOD, CODm color removal, residues of pollutans and discharge routes must be fulfilled. The treated water must not exceed 20gm COD/g of processed textile.

Storage, Packaging and Transport: Organic textile products must be stored and transported in such a manner as to prevent contamination by prohibited substances with conventional products of substitution of the contents.  Packaging material must not contain chlorinated plastics . e.g. PVC.

Social Criteria:
  • Employment should be freely chosen
  • Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected
  • No Child labour
  • No discrimination
  • Working conditions are to be safe and hygienic
  • Fair remuneration
  • Working hours are not excessive
  • No Precarious employment is provided
  • Harsh or inhumane behaviour is prohibited
  • Social compliance management
  • Ethical business behaviour
Quality Assurance system:

GOTS certification needs at least an annual turnover of GOTS labelled product equal or more than 5000 euro.It contains on site inspection process that however be performed at least for the first year and every 3rd year of granted certification. To apply for the certifcation you can visit GOTS website.

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Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) | Certification Steps and Requirements

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Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is globally recognized standard for organic status of whole textile supply chain that limits the use of toxic substances, dyes and other chemicals inputs during the entire production processes of textiles. It is toughest standard giving organization of textile which is comprised of 4 leading member organizations namely OTA (USA), IVN (Germany), Soil Association (UK) and JOCA (Japan). 

It has demonstrated practical feasibility of organic textiles since it was introduced in the year 2006. GOTS ensure the organic criteria of textile supply chain from the harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labeling in accordance with providing the credible commitments to the customer.

It is the main goal of GOTS that end customer will believe the textiles have organic status when it is labelled by GOTS. This leading standard covers the harvesting of fibers and its processing, all kind of manufacturing, packaging, labeling, trading and distribution of all kind of textile made from certified organic fibers.

This standard appreciates to produce any textiles in an individual way without the use of chemical inputs, the approach is to define criteria for low impact and residual natural or synthetic chemicals such as dyestuff, auxiliaries and finishes. GOTS sets requirements on working and social conditions that are equivalent to those of leading social sustainability standards. As the standard is also applied and monitored for entities in countries with developed and effectively applied social and labour legislation and collective agreements between employers and trade unions that conform with the universal standards of the international labour organization (ILO).

This certificate is accepted by all major markets in the world therefore the textile processors and manufacturers are enabled to buy and sell product with organic status to those markets.

There are two types of GOTS status as below-

A textile product carrying the GOTS label grade ‘organic’ must contain a minimum of 95% certified organic fibres whereas a product with the label grade ‘made with organic’ must contain a minimum of 70% certified organic fibres.

Assesment of Chemical inputs: All chemical inputs intended to be used to process GOTS goods are subjected to approval by a GOTS approved certifier ahead of thei usage. The following table lists chemical inputs that may be potentially used in conventional textile processing but that are explicitly prohibitted or retricted for environmental and toxicological reasons in all processing stages of GOTS labelled products.


Textile Fibers: GOTS accept the certification of fiber that claims organic status from IFOAM,USDA, National Organic Program (NOP), APEDA's National Program for Organic Production (NPOP), China Organic Standard GB/T19630. The certification body must have a valid and recognized accreditation for the standard it certifies against. Recognised accreditation are ISO 17065 accreditation, NOP accreditation, IFOAM accreditation and IFOAM Global Organic System accreditation.

Fiber Spinning: Yarn manufacturing by spinning allo the additives which meet the basic requirements as set by GOTS with the indication of prohibited chemical/processing involves. Any paraffin products used must be fully refined with a limited value of residual oil of 0.5%.

Sizing and Weaving/Knitting:
Here allowed sizing agents are all natural base as synthetic sizing materials are restricted with the exception of some special products. Allowed sizing materials include starch and its derivatives, other natural substances and CMC (Carboxy methyle Cellulose).

In case of any synthetic size materials can be used for no more than 25% of the total sizing in combination with natural substances only.

Knitting/weaving oils must not contain heavy metals, other inputs must be derived from natural source only.

Non Woven Manufacturing: Allowed non-woven manufacturing processing includes only mechanical compaction, webbing and entangling such as hydro entanglement.

Pre-treatments and other wet processing stages:
The chemicals inputs must meet the basic requirements sets by GOTS and must avoid prohibited or restricted chemicals. Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant.

  • Ammonia Treatment - Prohibited
  • Bleaches - Only oxygen base bleaches are allowed such as peroxides, ozone etc.
  • Washing - Detergents must not contain phosphates
  • Chlorination of Wools - Prohibited
  • Desizing - Allowed are GMO (Genetically Modified Organisms) free enzymatic desizing and other auxiliaries.
  • Mechanical/Thermal Treatments - Allowed
  • Mercerizatin - Alkali must be recycled.

Dyeing/Printing: Selection of dyes and auxiliaries are restricted by GOTS. Allowed are natural dyes, synthetic dyes, pigments and auxiliaries that meet the basic requirements set BY GOTS. Dyes that are prone to allergic are prohibited such as disperse dye. Dyes containing heavy metals are prohibited. Some specific except for copper that permits up to 5% per weight in blue, green and turquoise dyestuff.

Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited. Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited


Additional Fiber Materials(Max 5% for organic label and 30% for made with organic label):
  • Conventional natural fibers except conventional cotton and angora hair.
  • Regenerated fibers from certified organic raw materials which are non - GMO.
  • Regenerated fibers like viscose or modal
  • Recycled synthetic fibers from pre or post consumer waste.
  • Virgin synthetic or polymer fibers
  • Stainless steel fibers and minerla fibers with exception of asbestos, carbon and silver fibers

Trims and Accessories: For any kind of trims or accessories allowed are natural materials including biotic material such as natural fiber, wood, leather, horn, bone, shell and non biotic material such as minerals, metals, stone. Also regenerated and synthetic materials are allowed in some cases.


Effluent Treatment Plant(ETP): Wastewater from all wet processing units must be treated in an internal or external functional wastewater treatment plant before discharging to environment. The applicable national and local legal requirements for waste water treatment including limit values with regard to pH, temperature, TOC< BOD, CODm color removal, residues of pollutans and discharge routes must be fulfilled. The treated water must not exceed 20gm COD/g of processed textile.

Storage, Packaging and Transport: Organic textile products must be stored and transported in such a manner as to prevent contamination by prohibited substances with conventional products of substitution of the contents.  Packaging material must not contain chlorinated plastics . e.g. PVC.

Social Criteria:
  • Employment should be freely chosen
  • Freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining are respected
  • No Child labour
  • No discrimination
  • Working conditions are to be safe and hygienic
  • Fair remuneration
  • Working hours are not excessive
  • No Precarious employment is provided
  • Harsh or inhumane behaviour is prohibited
  • Social compliance management
  • Ethical business behaviour
Quality Assurance system:

GOTS certification needs at least an annual turnover of GOTS labelled product equal or more than 5000 euro.It contains on site inspection process that however be performed at least for the first year and every 3rd year of granted certification. To apply for the certifcation you can visit GOTS website.

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