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To sew apparels sewing machines are must that is used to stitch fabric and other materials together with the thread. Industrial sewing machines were invented during the first industrial revolution to minimize the human effort and save time in the year 1790 by Thomas Saint. After the invention it has become the most useful element of garment industry and now various types of them are already launched in commercial market. To get rid of human hand stitching sewing machine was invented though now it has become automated. It has given better efficiency and productivity to the manufacturing industries. Some China, Japan or Korean company have launched various types of sewing machine and it's further development is still on process. In each year we are being known to some new features of this machine, but still we need to know about the basic elements of a sewing machine and their function.

Different Parts of A Sewing Machine:


Image: Sewing machine and it's different parts




Foot Pedal:

It is a common element of sewing machine that controls the relatve speed of the machine depends on the force applied on it. For any high speed modern sewing machine speed can be adjusted by a push up button thus foot pedal is not the functional one for them.

Image: Foot Pedal


Power Cord and Switch:

Now a days industrial sewing machines are run by electrical power so to get constant supplier of electricity power cord is to be set with the machine precisely. There is a on or off switch button to function it.


Image: Power cord and switch


Hand Wheel:

It controls the movement of sewing needle as it used to lift up and down the need as per requirement to place the fabric cut panels beneath the tip. There is a clutch knob inside the wheel which acts as a safety measure of it and helps to avoid the needle from jabbing up and down during bobbin winding



Image: Hand Wheel


Reverse Lever:

In a sewing machine it is placed at the front of it and is used to give secure stitch at the end of any stitch. Sometimes we call this operation as tack of the stitch.



Image: Reverse Lever


 Spool Pin and Holder:

Function of this pin is to hold the cone/any other package of sewing thread. Besides, it helps to control the thread direction and tension while it goes under operation of sewing.
Image: Spool pin and holder

Bobbin Winder:

Before placing the bobbin into case it is filled up with threads and the function is done through a bobbin winder.An empty bobbin can wind at less than one minute by a winder. It is usually placed at right top corner of the machine.



Image: Bobbin Winder

Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Adjustment:

It functions to select the type of the stitch to be given on the fabric. Like straight lock stitch, zigzag stitch it helps to control the stitch length thus SPI is controlled. It depends on the machine that how much variation can be done to sew any garment.

Length determiners is sit beside the pattern selector and it determines the length of the stitch. The length range is about to 0-4 where 0 is the shortest stitch and 4 is the longest one. This adjustment takes place at the feed dog.

Image: Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Adjuster


Tension Disc:

Tension tension determines the looseness or firmness of the given stitch where tension disc controls the pressure applied to the thread for uniform feed to the machine needle. The basic funcsions of this device is -

  • Correct placement of the thread to the needle
  • Regulate the flow of the thread
  • Execute the stitching operation smoothly
  • Ensure the thread passage properly

There are of two different types device as direct tension device and indirect tension device. In high speed modern sewing machine, the tension dial with numbers graduated on it is used for varying the tension. The higher the number the greater the tension and vice versa. To get straight seam line tension needs to be adjusted correctly.

Image: Tension Disc


Needle and Needle Clamp:

The needle fits into the needle bar that holds it in place with a small screw. The clamp is really required to fix up the needle in correct place.

Image: Needle and Needle Clamp


Take up Lever:

This lever moves up and down direction during the stitch formation to give the supply of thread while the loop is formed and taken back the needle thread after each stitching to set the stitch. Thread tension is also maintained at optimum level by this lever.

 Image: Take Up Lever

Presser Foot:

The pressure foot is very important element to perform the stitch. It helps to grab the fabric and place to the feed dog, thus the feed dog moves the fabric through out the machine. A downward pressure is applied by this device on the material.



 Image: Presser Foot


Presser Dial:

The presser dial determines the amount of pressure to be applied on the fabric by the presser foot. The most light weight fabric needs maximum amount of presser to control the fabric in better way and thus vice versa.


 Image: Presser Dial

Presser Foot Lever:

Functionally presser foot lever moves up and down to engage and disengage the presser foot on to the fabric respectively

 
Image: Presser Foot Lever

 Feed Dog:

This is the another most important part of sewing machine which looks like teeth that function in combination with the presser foot to move forward the fabric after performing one stitch. SPI is also be set that is regulated by the feed dog.


 Image: Feed Dog


Face Plate:

It is just a cover that conceals all the internal working elements of the machine.





Image: Face Plate


Throat Plate:

It's the upper part that covers the bobbin and the feed dog so that whole of the elect does not see from out side. It contains some slot for the feed dog and there is a hole to pass through the need to catch the bobbin thread.





Image: Throat plate



Bobbin Case:

The bobbins are set into the bobbin case manually and then set it with the machine. This is placed under the needle plate and usually has a piece of plastic that flips up tot cover the bobbin case when sewing is not performed.

 Image: Bobbin Case

Bobbin:

A small package that is winded to carry out the sewing thread and is fitted into the bobbin case. Bobbin winder is used to filled it up and thread is evenly distributed while stitching is performed.


Image: Bobbin

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Parts of Garments Sewing Machines | Function of Clothing Sewing Machines

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To sew apparels sewing machines are must that is used to stitch fabric and other materials together with the thread. Industrial sewing machines were invented during the first industrial revolution to minimize the human effort and save time in the year 1790 by Thomas Saint. After the invention it has become the most useful element of garment industry and now various types of them are already launched in commercial market. To get rid of human hand stitching sewing machine was invented though now it has become automated. It has given better efficiency and productivity to the manufacturing industries. Some China, Japan or Korean company have launched various types of sewing machine and it's further development is still on process. In each year we are being known to some new features of this machine, but still we need to know about the basic elements of a sewing machine and their function.

Different Parts of A Sewing Machine:


Image: Sewing machine and it's different parts




Foot Pedal:

It is a common element of sewing machine that controls the relatve speed of the machine depends on the force applied on it. For any high speed modern sewing machine speed can be adjusted by a push up button thus foot pedal is not the functional one for them.

Image: Foot Pedal


Power Cord and Switch:

Now a days industrial sewing machines are run by electrical power so to get constant supplier of electricity power cord is to be set with the machine precisely. There is a on or off switch button to function it.


Image: Power cord and switch


Hand Wheel:

It controls the movement of sewing needle as it used to lift up and down the need as per requirement to place the fabric cut panels beneath the tip. There is a clutch knob inside the wheel which acts as a safety measure of it and helps to avoid the needle from jabbing up and down during bobbin winding



Image: Hand Wheel


Reverse Lever:

In a sewing machine it is placed at the front of it and is used to give secure stitch at the end of any stitch. Sometimes we call this operation as tack of the stitch.



Image: Reverse Lever


 Spool Pin and Holder:

Function of this pin is to hold the cone/any other package of sewing thread. Besides, it helps to control the thread direction and tension while it goes under operation of sewing.
Image: Spool pin and holder

Bobbin Winder:

Before placing the bobbin into case it is filled up with threads and the function is done through a bobbin winder.An empty bobbin can wind at less than one minute by a winder. It is usually placed at right top corner of the machine.



Image: Bobbin Winder

Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Adjustment:

It functions to select the type of the stitch to be given on the fabric. Like straight lock stitch, zigzag stitch it helps to control the stitch length thus SPI is controlled. It depends on the machine that how much variation can be done to sew any garment.

Length determiners is sit beside the pattern selector and it determines the length of the stitch. The length range is about to 0-4 where 0 is the shortest stitch and 4 is the longest one. This adjustment takes place at the feed dog.

Image: Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Adjuster


Tension Disc:

Tension tension determines the looseness or firmness of the given stitch where tension disc controls the pressure applied to the thread for uniform feed to the machine needle. The basic funcsions of this device is -

  • Correct placement of the thread to the needle
  • Regulate the flow of the thread
  • Execute the stitching operation smoothly
  • Ensure the thread passage properly

There are of two different types device as direct tension device and indirect tension device. In high speed modern sewing machine, the tension dial with numbers graduated on it is used for varying the tension. The higher the number the greater the tension and vice versa. To get straight seam line tension needs to be adjusted correctly.

Image: Tension Disc


Needle and Needle Clamp:

The needle fits into the needle bar that holds it in place with a small screw. The clamp is really required to fix up the needle in correct place.

Image: Needle and Needle Clamp


Take up Lever:

This lever moves up and down direction during the stitch formation to give the supply of thread while the loop is formed and taken back the needle thread after each stitching to set the stitch. Thread tension is also maintained at optimum level by this lever.

 Image: Take Up Lever

Presser Foot:

The pressure foot is very important element to perform the stitch. It helps to grab the fabric and place to the feed dog, thus the feed dog moves the fabric through out the machine. A downward pressure is applied by this device on the material.



 Image: Presser Foot


Presser Dial:

The presser dial determines the amount of pressure to be applied on the fabric by the presser foot. The most light weight fabric needs maximum amount of presser to control the fabric in better way and thus vice versa.


 Image: Presser Dial

Presser Foot Lever:

Functionally presser foot lever moves up and down to engage and disengage the presser foot on to the fabric respectively

 
Image: Presser Foot Lever

 Feed Dog:

This is the another most important part of sewing machine which looks like teeth that function in combination with the presser foot to move forward the fabric after performing one stitch. SPI is also be set that is regulated by the feed dog.


 Image: Feed Dog


Face Plate:

It is just a cover that conceals all the internal working elements of the machine.





Image: Face Plate


Throat Plate:

It's the upper part that covers the bobbin and the feed dog so that whole of the elect does not see from out side. It contains some slot for the feed dog and there is a hole to pass through the need to catch the bobbin thread.





Image: Throat plate



Bobbin Case:

The bobbins are set into the bobbin case manually and then set it with the machine. This is placed under the needle plate and usually has a piece of plastic that flips up tot cover the bobbin case when sewing is not performed.

 Image: Bobbin Case

Bobbin:

A small package that is winded to carry out the sewing thread and is fitted into the bobbin case. Bobbin winder is used to filled it up and thread is evenly distributed while stitching is performed.


Image: Bobbin

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Quality means customer demands to be met. Any failure to maintain an adequate quality standard can be therefore be unsuccessful. Cost is involved to maintain an required standard of quality. In the garment industry quality control is practiced just right after in house fabric and all other materials in a production facility. It also can define as quality control that starts from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished goods. For whole textile industry quality of the product is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fiber, yarns, fabric construction, color or shade matching, color fastness, design and the appearance or look of final finished garments. Also the quality standards depend on the type of the customer segments and the retail outlets.

The ultimate customer of a garment look at the quality and appearance of the product at first place. Thus, to satisfy customer needs quality standard must be followed. Supplier can't produce and ship out garments according to their own wish as according to the purchase agreement, buyer can penalize supplier for delivering any defective garments.Buyer lost their faith on supplier if they do the things. Therefore it's suppliers responsibility to take care of whole production and ensure quality goods.Most of the cases, respective buying QC conducts the final inspection before delivering the goods. Whatever defects found in the final inspection, it is the result and cumulative figure of previous processes. Thus, it is very important to rectify defective garments before offering any final inspection.

Reason of producing defective garments:
There are lot of people and machines are involved in producing any garment. So there is an absolute scope of producing defective garments because of incorrect machine operation or handling of human. But, still the manufacturers have opportunity to rectify the faulty pieces though it is costly and time consuming. To make the garment production efficient maintaining good quality the checking points and methods must be followed.

The Major quality measuring points:

Fabric Store:
Fabrics are inspected fully or partially according to the international fabric inspection methods. Before issuing fabric to the cutting unit inspection is completed. Since it is the main raw material of a garment, no manufacturer compromise to check and ensure the quality.In most of the cases 10% fabrics are checked whereas for power loom and printed fabric almost 100% fabrics are checked.Among all the methods 4 point system is popular and mostly used.
Common check list of this section-
  • Fabric roll to roll shade check.
  • Fabric GSM check.
  • Fabric color mistake check.
  • Yarn contamination or foreign yarn Check.
  • Selvedge or running shade check for solid dyed fabric
  • Fabric blanket check after washing in case of woven and denim garments.
  • Fabric width check with the PI
  • Make shade range and get confirmation from buyer agents

Cutting Section:
Commonly cutting is the heart of bulk production. To avoid defects fabric needs to be cut precisely.
Quality check list of this section-
  • Double check the pattern and the marker
  • Check the knife of the cutter before starting cutting
  • Fabric lay check
  • Cut panel check
  • Size mistake check
  • Mixed shade check at cut panel and replace it

Trims and Accessories check:

It is very important to check the quality of trims as well because for a small item whole garment might be rejected. If there is any incorrect items and missing items found in checking then corrective steps can be taken immediately.

The check list for this section -

  • Approved trims card check and confirm.
  • Main, Size & Care Label Check.
  • Care symbol check based on tech pack
  • Thread color, count and quality check.
  • All kinds of hang tag & price ticket heck. 

Sewing Section:
Quality checking in sewing section starts through size set sample making. With correct size set manufacturers and buying QC together conduct the PP meeting before starting bulk production. During PPM, samples are checked with buyer approved PP sample or counter sample. Major mistakes and quality concern are highlighted in the meeting so that bulk goods satisfy the buyer standard. PP meeting is so important as before sewing whatever corrective action plan can be taken otherwise whole production will be rejected or subjected to have rectification.

Then quality is checked in pilot run garments or trial cut garments to ensure whatever findings were in size set that are corrected now. Then inline inspection is done based on buyers AQL (Acceptable Quality Limit). Each sewing line one quality check point is present where assembled garments are taken for checking by factory quality checker or GPQ (Guideline for Production and Quality). Also in assembly line check points are kept for the critical operations. In these checkpoints, 100% checking is done for partially or fully stitched garments and defect free pieces are forwarded to the subsequent process.
The major check points of this section are:

  • Approved PP/counter sample & measurement sheet check, also check the final comments from buyer.
  • Sample wise input check.
  • Approved trims card check.
  • Styling check based on approved sample
  • All machine thread tension check.
  • Print & Embroidery placement check.
  • All process measurement check.
  • All machine oil spot check.
  • All process SPI (Stitch Per Inch) check as per customer demand
  • Part shading, bundle mistake & size mistake check.
  • Need to balance the sewing tension precisely 
  • Front part, back part, sleeve & thread shading check.
  • SPI check for all process.
  • Main, size and care label check.
  • All process alter check.


Print/Embroidery Check:
These are not compulsory process for all styles but where it is required must be checked before forwarding them to next process. If printing is done in fabric mill then it is checked by store and if printing is done on cut panel then it is checked before sewing. For knit garments, mostly printing is done on cut panels. So before issuing cutting to sewing department each panel should be checked properly. If any defect is found on cut panel then it must be replaced by new one but it must be kept in mind that replaced cut panels shade should be identical to the other portion of that garment.

Like printing, embroidery is also checked and ensure 100% correct panels are being forwarded to next process.

The Check lists are-
  • Approved sample or artwork wise bulk garment print & embroidery design check.
  • Size wise approved pattern and placement check.
  • Print design, color & quality check.
  • Bundle & size wise print/embroidery check.

Finishing Section:

At finished garments quality is checked before packing. If all the previous check point works properly then quality goods will come in finishing section. Some processes are involed in finishing like button attachment, Hang Tag, Waist Card or other accessories attachemnt so the quality check point in this section should be strong. Before forwarding the garments for packing they go through ironing.

Here, initial finishing inspection, pre-final inspection and final inspection are conducted after finishing and packing the goods. All inspections are conducted by buying QC or assigned designated person of respective factory.

Below are the check lists of this section-
  • Full styling check once again based on approved sample
  • All garments shade check before starting finishing
  • Print/Embroider and other sewing trims check
  • All process stitching quality check
  • Keep separately if there is any dirty or oil spotted garment
  • All label and finishing accessories attachment and quality check
  • Reject the pieces containing too much frying at inside of garments because of faulty over lock machine operation
  • Remove flying dust, hairiness and uncut threads from the surface of the garment
  • All points measurement check properly
  • Check the manual before attaching hang tags and fold the garments
  • Pack the garments based on customer demand as it may be single or blister pack
  • Do cartooning carefully and keep them for final inspection

Garments Quality Checkig in Production | Check list of Garments Quality

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Quality means customer demands to be met. Any failure to maintain an adequate quality standard can be therefore be unsuccessful. Cost is involved to maintain an required standard of quality. In the garment industry quality control is practiced just right after in house fabric and all other materials in a production facility. It also can define as quality control that starts from the initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished goods. For whole textile industry quality of the product is calculated in terms of quality and standard of fiber, yarns, fabric construction, color or shade matching, color fastness, design and the appearance or look of final finished garments. Also the quality standards depend on the type of the customer segments and the retail outlets.

The ultimate customer of a garment look at the quality and appearance of the product at first place. Thus, to satisfy customer needs quality standard must be followed. Supplier can't produce and ship out garments according to their own wish as according to the purchase agreement, buyer can penalize supplier for delivering any defective garments.Buyer lost their faith on supplier if they do the things. Therefore it's suppliers responsibility to take care of whole production and ensure quality goods.Most of the cases, respective buying QC conducts the final inspection before delivering the goods. Whatever defects found in the final inspection, it is the result and cumulative figure of previous processes. Thus, it is very important to rectify defective garments before offering any final inspection.

Reason of producing defective garments:
There are lot of people and machines are involved in producing any garment. So there is an absolute scope of producing defective garments because of incorrect machine operation or handling of human. But, still the manufacturers have opportunity to rectify the faulty pieces though it is costly and time consuming. To make the garment production efficient maintaining good quality the checking points and methods must be followed.

The Major quality measuring points:

Fabric Store:
Fabrics are inspected fully or partially according to the international fabric inspection methods. Before issuing fabric to the cutting unit inspection is completed. Since it is the main raw material of a garment, no manufacturer compromise to check and ensure the quality.In most of the cases 10% fabrics are checked whereas for power loom and printed fabric almost 100% fabrics are checked.Among all the methods 4 point system is popular and mostly used.
Common check list of this section-
  • Fabric roll to roll shade check.
  • Fabric GSM check.
  • Fabric color mistake check.
  • Yarn contamination or foreign yarn Check.
  • Selvedge or running shade check for solid dyed fabric
  • Fabric blanket check after washing in case of woven and denim garments.
  • Fabric width check with the PI
  • Make shade range and get confirmation from buyer agents

Cutting Section:
Commonly cutting is the heart of bulk production. To avoid defects fabric needs to be cut precisely.
Quality check list of this section-
  • Double check the pattern and the marker
  • Check the knife of the cutter before starting cutting
  • Fabric lay check
  • Cut panel check
  • Size mistake check
  • Mixed shade check at cut panel and replace it

Trims and Accessories check:

It is very important to check the quality of trims as well because for a small item whole garment might be rejected. If there is any incorrect items and missing items found in checking then corrective steps can be taken immediately.

The check list for this section -

  • Approved trims card check and confirm.
  • Main, Size & Care Label Check.
  • Care symbol check based on tech pack
  • Thread color, count and quality check.
  • All kinds of hang tag & price ticket heck. 

Sewing Section:
Quality checking in sewing section starts through size set sample making. With correct size set manufacturers and buying QC together conduct the PP meeting before starting bulk production. During PPM, samples are checked with buyer approved PP sample or counter sample. Major mistakes and quality concern are highlighted in the meeting so that bulk goods satisfy the buyer standard. PP meeting is so important as before sewing whatever corrective action plan can be taken otherwise whole production will be rejected or subjected to have rectification.

Then quality is checked in pilot run garments or trial cut garments to ensure whatever findings were in size set that are corrected now. Then inline inspection is done based on buyers AQL (Acceptable Quality Limit). Each sewing line one quality check point is present where assembled garments are taken for checking by factory quality checker or GPQ (Guideline for Production and Quality). Also in assembly line check points are kept for the critical operations. In these checkpoints, 100% checking is done for partially or fully stitched garments and defect free pieces are forwarded to the subsequent process.
The major check points of this section are:

  • Approved PP/counter sample & measurement sheet check, also check the final comments from buyer.
  • Sample wise input check.
  • Approved trims card check.
  • Styling check based on approved sample
  • All machine thread tension check.
  • Print & Embroidery placement check.
  • All process measurement check.
  • All machine oil spot check.
  • All process SPI (Stitch Per Inch) check as per customer demand
  • Part shading, bundle mistake & size mistake check.
  • Need to balance the sewing tension precisely 
  • Front part, back part, sleeve & thread shading check.
  • SPI check for all process.
  • Main, size and care label check.
  • All process alter check.


Print/Embroidery Check:
These are not compulsory process for all styles but where it is required must be checked before forwarding them to next process. If printing is done in fabric mill then it is checked by store and if printing is done on cut panel then it is checked before sewing. For knit garments, mostly printing is done on cut panels. So before issuing cutting to sewing department each panel should be checked properly. If any defect is found on cut panel then it must be replaced by new one but it must be kept in mind that replaced cut panels shade should be identical to the other portion of that garment.

Like printing, embroidery is also checked and ensure 100% correct panels are being forwarded to next process.

The Check lists are-
  • Approved sample or artwork wise bulk garment print & embroidery design check.
  • Size wise approved pattern and placement check.
  • Print design, color & quality check.
  • Bundle & size wise print/embroidery check.

Finishing Section:

At finished garments quality is checked before packing. If all the previous check point works properly then quality goods will come in finishing section. Some processes are involed in finishing like button attachment, Hang Tag, Waist Card or other accessories attachemnt so the quality check point in this section should be strong. Before forwarding the garments for packing they go through ironing.

Here, initial finishing inspection, pre-final inspection and final inspection are conducted after finishing and packing the goods. All inspections are conducted by buying QC or assigned designated person of respective factory.

Below are the check lists of this section-
  • Full styling check once again based on approved sample
  • All garments shade check before starting finishing
  • Print/Embroider and other sewing trims check
  • All process stitching quality check
  • Keep separately if there is any dirty or oil spotted garment
  • All label and finishing accessories attachment and quality check
  • Reject the pieces containing too much frying at inside of garments because of faulty over lock machine operation
  • Remove flying dust, hairiness and uncut threads from the surface of the garment
  • All points measurement check properly
  • Check the manual before attaching hang tags and fold the garments
  • Pack the garments based on customer demand as it may be single or blister pack
  • Do cartooning carefully and keep them for final inspection

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Bangladesh University of Business and Technology  also known as BUBT is a UGC approved private university in Bangladesh. It is one of the eight private universities to receive the green signal from the government. It is located at Mirpur, Dhaka, Bangladesh. The university was established under the Private University Act 1992 and now BUBT is regulated by the Bangladesh University Grants Commission (UGC).

BUBT has recently published job circular 2018 for different position seeking the faculty members. The eligible candidates are requested to apply in order to the instruction given in the circular. 

Textile Engineering Department is a well established  department in BUBT. This department has asked application for the position of Assistant Professor and Lecturer from the eligible candidate. Candidates mush have the degree in Textile Engineering from reputed university with good CGPA.

Lecturer and Assistant Professor job for Textile Engineering of BUBUT has been published in The dailystart.net and in the official website of BUBT as on bubt.edu.bd and in also in the textileaid.blogspot.com.

Please see below brief details of the job circular at a glance -

Organization Name:Bangladesh University of Business and Technology (BUBT)
Position: Different Position, please see details in job circular image.

Job Publication Date:  01st of August, 2018
Online Application Start Date: 01st of August, 2018

Online Application End Date: 30 August, 2018

Salary: As per university rules

Number of Vacancies: please see details in job circular image.

Educational Requirements: See details in job circular image

Experience Requirements: See details in job circular image

Job Types: Private

Job category: Full time.

Job location: BUBT

Jobs Source: Official website of BUBT

Application Process: Hard Copy

Image of the Job Circular: (Click on the image to make it larger).





Bangladesh University of Business and Technology (BUBT) Job Circular | Lecturer Job

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Bangladesh University of Business and Technology  also known as BUBT is a UGC approved private university in Bangladesh. It is one of the eight private universities to receive the green signal from the government. It is located at Mirpur, Dhaka, Bangladesh. The university was established under the Private University Act 1992 and now BUBT is regulated by the Bangladesh University Grants Commission (UGC).

BUBT has recently published job circular 2018 for different position seeking the faculty members. The eligible candidates are requested to apply in order to the instruction given in the circular. 

Textile Engineering Department is a well established  department in BUBT. This department has asked application for the position of Assistant Professor and Lecturer from the eligible candidate. Candidates mush have the degree in Textile Engineering from reputed university with good CGPA.

Lecturer and Assistant Professor job for Textile Engineering of BUBUT has been published in The dailystart.net and in the official website of BUBT as on bubt.edu.bd and in also in the textileaid.blogspot.com.

Please see below brief details of the job circular at a glance -

Organization Name:Bangladesh University of Business and Technology (BUBT)
Position: Different Position, please see details in job circular image.

Job Publication Date:  01st of August, 2018
Online Application Start Date: 01st of August, 2018

Online Application End Date: 30 August, 2018

Salary: As per university rules

Number of Vacancies: please see details in job circular image.

Educational Requirements: See details in job circular image

Experience Requirements: See details in job circular image

Job Types: Private

Job category: Full time.

Job location: BUBT

Jobs Source: Official website of BUBT

Application Process: Hard Copy

Image of the Job Circular: (Click on the image to make it larger).





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Textile resources are becoming scarce such as cotton but it has materials that can be resourced and there are also other petroleum based fibers such as acrylic, nylon, polyester or spandex but the production of them are irreversible damage to our environment, therefore many more companies are seeking an alternative to make sustainable fiber and fabrics.


Considering sustainability and rising of consumer awareness regarding environmental impact Lenzing has invented a new fiber EcoVero™ which is a alternative to Viscose fiber. Lenzing, a company with its headquarter in Austria is considering this new innovation as a milestone in Lenzing's sustainability journey by offering Eco-friendly viscose with the lowest environmental impact in the industry that is setting the new standard with wide benchmark in the sustainability of viscose fibers.

Viscose which is widely known as Viscose Rayon are used to make soft, silky and luxurious feeling fabric. The material wood are processed to make pulp that are purified cellulose which are often compared with silk and cotton. Though production of viscose are from natural source but they are chemically modified which is known as semi-synthetic.

Generally the timber are used to make the wooden pulp stems from irrigation-intensive mono cultures, which negatively impact the earth. Consumption of highly toxic chemicals, such as carbon disulfide(CS2) are used during the production of viscose rayon which has led to a number of worker poisonings. Apart this, shipping the cellulose-based semi synthetic fibers around the world also increase the level of carbon di-oxide(CO2) emissions, making it a fiber that is harmful to environment. 

EcoVero™, the innovative and improved sustainable alternative fiber to viscose rayon.

Being produced by Lenzing, EcoVero™ is made using wood that comes from sustainable forestry plantations are certified by industry-leading associations such as FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or PEFC (Program for Endorsement of Forest Certification Schemes) in Europe. To produce Viscose, bamboo or eucalyptus are commonly used but in EcoVero™ more than 60 percent of the trees used to produced EcoVero™ fibers come from Austria and Bavaria to ensure lower emissions. 


Launching EcoVero™ fibers by Lenzing that set a new industry standard in sustainable viscose based on three main points-

  • The use of sustainable wood sources (FSC® or PEFC® certified),  
  • An ecological production process (significantly lower emissions and water impact than conventional viscose), 
  • Full supply chain transparency by identifying EcoVero™ fibers in the final product.

This cellulose fiber is produced with a new, innovative environmental process that has significantly lower emissions and water impact than conventional viscose. Almost all the chemicals used during the production of Ecovero are reusable. In comparison with viscose production, the Ecovero causes 50% less emissions and takes up half as much energy and water with its pulp bleaching being 100% chlorine-free.


Well known retailers are teaming up with Lenzing to advance their sustainability strategies with traceable Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers. The brands have already taken initiative to introduce EcoVero™ to their collection are listed below-
  • Gina Tricot, a Scandinavian retailer.
  • Lindex, Retailer of Sweden
  • Armedangels, The German brand

EcoVero™ Fiber The Alternative to Viscose is a Sustainable Innovation

No comments

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Textile resources are becoming scarce such as cotton but it has materials that can be resourced and there are also other petroleum based fibers such as acrylic, nylon, polyester or spandex but the production of them are irreversible damage to our environment, therefore many more companies are seeking an alternative to make sustainable fiber and fabrics.


Considering sustainability and rising of consumer awareness regarding environmental impact Lenzing has invented a new fiber EcoVero™ which is a alternative to Viscose fiber. Lenzing, a company with its headquarter in Austria is considering this new innovation as a milestone in Lenzing's sustainability journey by offering Eco-friendly viscose with the lowest environmental impact in the industry that is setting the new standard with wide benchmark in the sustainability of viscose fibers.

Viscose which is widely known as Viscose Rayon are used to make soft, silky and luxurious feeling fabric. The material wood are processed to make pulp that are purified cellulose which are often compared with silk and cotton. Though production of viscose are from natural source but they are chemically modified which is known as semi-synthetic.

Generally the timber are used to make the wooden pulp stems from irrigation-intensive mono cultures, which negatively impact the earth. Consumption of highly toxic chemicals, such as carbon disulfide(CS2) are used during the production of viscose rayon which has led to a number of worker poisonings. Apart this, shipping the cellulose-based semi synthetic fibers around the world also increase the level of carbon di-oxide(CO2) emissions, making it a fiber that is harmful to environment. 

EcoVero™, the innovative and improved sustainable alternative fiber to viscose rayon.

Being produced by Lenzing, EcoVero™ is made using wood that comes from sustainable forestry plantations are certified by industry-leading associations such as FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) or PEFC (Program for Endorsement of Forest Certification Schemes) in Europe. To produce Viscose, bamboo or eucalyptus are commonly used but in EcoVero™ more than 60 percent of the trees used to produced EcoVero™ fibers come from Austria and Bavaria to ensure lower emissions. 


Launching EcoVero™ fibers by Lenzing that set a new industry standard in sustainable viscose based on three main points-

  • The use of sustainable wood sources (FSC® or PEFC® certified),  
  • An ecological production process (significantly lower emissions and water impact than conventional viscose), 
  • Full supply chain transparency by identifying EcoVero™ fibers in the final product.

This cellulose fiber is produced with a new, innovative environmental process that has significantly lower emissions and water impact than conventional viscose. Almost all the chemicals used during the production of Ecovero are reusable. In comparison with viscose production, the Ecovero causes 50% less emissions and takes up half as much energy and water with its pulp bleaching being 100% chlorine-free.


Well known retailers are teaming up with Lenzing to advance their sustainability strategies with traceable Lenzing™ EcoVero™ fibers. The brands have already taken initiative to introduce EcoVero™ to their collection are listed below-
  • Gina Tricot, a Scandinavian retailer.
  • Lindex, Retailer of Sweden
  • Armedangels, The German brand
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Denim is considered the most interested field in the glob for creating new fashion. Researchers are developing new technology considering sustainability that leads to invent processes that can go through environmental friendly way.

Nano Bubble Technology is the new one which is widely known as e-flow system was invented and patented by Jeanologia, a Spanish company in the year 2012 and now it is coming into force in industrial use for denim washing. In fact it is the sustainable finishing process for textile that transfers chemicals on to garments made of any fabric. Water, which is the main career of any finishing process and finally discharges into environment as waste but in e-flow system air from the atmosphere is transformed into the nano bubbles where water and correct amount of chemical products naturally distribute themselves forming the nano bubble skin. Therefore, they can be used as the carriers of the chemicals and transmit them homogeneously onto the garment.

This technology can contribute to a considerable number of finishing effects with the best level of quality, a maximum less amount of water and there is zero discharge of the process.

Methodology:

Air from the atmosphere is taken into an electro-flow reactor and subjected to an electro-mechanical shock that creates nano bubbles and a flow of wet air.

Then the nano bubbles are transported into a rotating tumbler containing the denim samples and when it comes into contact with them produces a soft and natural hand feel. The samples are then dried even in the same tumble machine it is possible to dry up. Since denims are indigo dyed where unfix dyes are available on the surface of the fabric therefore cross staining may happen with this technology which can be eliminated through using a little bit anti cross staining agent or can treat with dry ozonator.

The e-flow process breaks up the indigo molecules from the surface of the denim and then the process produces a pre-shrinkage of the fabric, that will contribute to avoid high shrinkage during home laundry. It also gives a softer hand feel and so the garments are comfortable to wear and with an improvement in color fastness to rubbing properties.

Five benefits of the process:

  • It reduces 95% water and 40% energy consumption.
  • Elimination of waste water and treated chemical to the environment.
  • Superb hand feel can be achieved
  • High quality garments are treated which are being affected by conventional wash process.
  • The brightness and luster are increased

Nano Bubble Technology Reduces 95% Water in Denim Washing

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Denim is considered the most interested field in the glob for creating new fashion. Researchers are developing new technology considering sustainability that leads to invent processes that can go through environmental friendly way.

Nano Bubble Technology is the new one which is widely known as e-flow system was invented and patented by Jeanologia, a Spanish company in the year 2012 and now it is coming into force in industrial use for denim washing. In fact it is the sustainable finishing process for textile that transfers chemicals on to garments made of any fabric. Water, which is the main career of any finishing process and finally discharges into environment as waste but in e-flow system air from the atmosphere is transformed into the nano bubbles where water and correct amount of chemical products naturally distribute themselves forming the nano bubble skin. Therefore, they can be used as the carriers of the chemicals and transmit them homogeneously onto the garment.

This technology can contribute to a considerable number of finishing effects with the best level of quality, a maximum less amount of water and there is zero discharge of the process.

Methodology:

Air from the atmosphere is taken into an electro-flow reactor and subjected to an electro-mechanical shock that creates nano bubbles and a flow of wet air.

Then the nano bubbles are transported into a rotating tumbler containing the denim samples and when it comes into contact with them produces a soft and natural hand feel. The samples are then dried even in the same tumble machine it is possible to dry up. Since denims are indigo dyed where unfix dyes are available on the surface of the fabric therefore cross staining may happen with this technology which can be eliminated through using a little bit anti cross staining agent or can treat with dry ozonator.

The e-flow process breaks up the indigo molecules from the surface of the denim and then the process produces a pre-shrinkage of the fabric, that will contribute to avoid high shrinkage during home laundry. It also gives a softer hand feel and so the garments are comfortable to wear and with an improvement in color fastness to rubbing properties.

Five benefits of the process:

  • It reduces 95% water and 40% energy consumption.
  • Elimination of waste water and treated chemical to the environment.
  • Superb hand feel can be achieved
  • High quality garments are treated which are being affected by conventional wash process.
  • The brightness and luster are increased

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Article is Written By
Fazlay Rabby James
Merchandiser
FCI BD Ltd.

We are here to share an example of making cost sheet where a linned jacket has been considered.

Below is an example of the Garment Specification sheet or Tech Pack (Technical Package):
 



Step 1: At first we have to collect FDS for shell fabric & trims fabric. Let us consider all shell fabric & trims fabric price in one sheet as bellow.



Step 2: Now we have to send mini marker request to CAD department of your factory for consumption of all shell fabric & trim fabric. Then we have to send design pack with all shell fabric & trim fabric cut able width. In return CAD departments will send us mini marker (consumption) for all fabric and trims fabric. Sometimes it may call  YY (yield yardage).
 
Example of a mini marker

The style we are taking for experiment, here we will get total 9 mini marker from CAD department as bellow.
1.    Shell Fabric
2.    Body Lining
3.    Sleeve Lining
4.    Piping
5.    Inside Pocket + Pocket Envelop (since both are same quality; 210T Taffeta Black, so two parts will be integrated in one marker)
6.    Knit Fusing
7.    Paper Fusing
8.    Thread Fusing

Let us consider consumption is as bellow for per pcs garments.
1.    Shell Fabric---------2.2 yds
2.    Body Lining--------1.3 yds
3.    Sleeve Lining-----0.90 yds
4.    Piping-------------0.12 yds
5.    Inside Pocket + Pocket Envelop----0.06yds
6.    Knit Fusing-----0.65yds
7.    Paper Fusing—1.10yds
8.    Thread Fusing-0.17 yds

Step 3:
We have to send the tech pack to our IE department’s concern engineer to calculate SMV.
Let us consider garments SMV is coming 65 minutes.

Also let us consider factory standard CPM is nearer to 0.07 so our target CM will be about 4.55 (65X0.07=4.55). Here I have calculated CM putting a formula which is mainly depends of factory standard.  Also sometimes it is not possible to consider accurate & market competitive CM as per factory standard. In that case merchant need to use his experience to offer perfect CM to grab the business also keeping company profit.

Step 4:
We have to collect label, button, carton, thread etc. trims price from respective supplier. Let us consider trims price is as below
  • Main Label—$0.05/pcs
  • Size Label--$0.02/pcs
  • Care Label-$0.03/pcs
  • Hang Tag-$0.05/pcs
  • Thread-$1.5/cone (Let us consider thread consumption is 0.2 cone/pcs garments.
  • Poly-$0.10/pcs
  • Carton-$1.50/ pcs (Let us consider 5 pcs garments can be packed in one pcs carton so carton consumption will be 1/5)
  • Gum tape-$0.50/pcs (Let us consider 15 pcs carton can be packed by one pcs gumtape so gum tape consumption for per pcs garments will be 1/(5X15))
  • Button-0.05/pcs
  • Carton Sticker-$0.10/ pcs (Let us consider 5 pcs garments can be packed in one pcs carton so carton sticker consumption will be 1/5)

Step 5:
Already we have got all shell fabric & trims fabric price in FDS, now we can make cost sheet following above prices.




Though here profit is showing $0.82 if it is accepted by buyer but net profit will be higher than this. All factories have minimum profit limit to grab orders so this philosophy is different for respective factories.

Retail Price: The selling price of product in shop is the retail price of the product. Buyer purchase the garments from factory in FOB price. But they also sell the garments in shop considering all cost involved in taking orders to store including company management cost with margin or profit. Depending upon customer and quality of product the retail prices become three to ten times than FOB price. 

Garments Costing With Example | Practical Method of Garments Costing | Overview of Woven Jacket Costing

No comments

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Article is Written By
Fazlay Rabby James
Merchandiser
FCI BD Ltd.

We are here to share an example of making cost sheet where a linned jacket has been considered.

Below is an example of the Garment Specification sheet or Tech Pack (Technical Package):
 



Step 1: At first we have to collect FDS for shell fabric & trims fabric. Let us consider all shell fabric & trims fabric price in one sheet as bellow.



Step 2: Now we have to send mini marker request to CAD department of your factory for consumption of all shell fabric & trim fabric. Then we have to send design pack with all shell fabric & trim fabric cut able width. In return CAD departments will send us mini marker (consumption) for all fabric and trims fabric. Sometimes it may call  YY (yield yardage).
 
Example of a mini marker

The style we are taking for experiment, here we will get total 9 mini marker from CAD department as bellow.
1.    Shell Fabric
2.    Body Lining
3.    Sleeve Lining
4.    Piping
5.    Inside Pocket + Pocket Envelop (since both are same quality; 210T Taffeta Black, so two parts will be integrated in one marker)
6.    Knit Fusing
7.    Paper Fusing
8.    Thread Fusing

Let us consider consumption is as bellow for per pcs garments.
1.    Shell Fabric---------2.2 yds
2.    Body Lining--------1.3 yds
3.    Sleeve Lining-----0.90 yds
4.    Piping-------------0.12 yds
5.    Inside Pocket + Pocket Envelop----0.06yds
6.    Knit Fusing-----0.65yds
7.    Paper Fusing—1.10yds
8.    Thread Fusing-0.17 yds

Step 3:
We have to send the tech pack to our IE department’s concern engineer to calculate SMV.
Let us consider garments SMV is coming 65 minutes.

Also let us consider factory standard CPM is nearer to 0.07 so our target CM will be about 4.55 (65X0.07=4.55). Here I have calculated CM putting a formula which is mainly depends of factory standard.  Also sometimes it is not possible to consider accurate & market competitive CM as per factory standard. In that case merchant need to use his experience to offer perfect CM to grab the business also keeping company profit.

Step 4:
We have to collect label, button, carton, thread etc. trims price from respective supplier. Let us consider trims price is as below
  • Main Label—$0.05/pcs
  • Size Label--$0.02/pcs
  • Care Label-$0.03/pcs
  • Hang Tag-$0.05/pcs
  • Thread-$1.5/cone (Let us consider thread consumption is 0.2 cone/pcs garments.
  • Poly-$0.10/pcs
  • Carton-$1.50/ pcs (Let us consider 5 pcs garments can be packed in one pcs carton so carton consumption will be 1/5)
  • Gum tape-$0.50/pcs (Let us consider 15 pcs carton can be packed by one pcs gumtape so gum tape consumption for per pcs garments will be 1/(5X15))
  • Button-0.05/pcs
  • Carton Sticker-$0.10/ pcs (Let us consider 5 pcs garments can be packed in one pcs carton so carton sticker consumption will be 1/5)

Step 5:
Already we have got all shell fabric & trims fabric price in FDS, now we can make cost sheet following above prices.




Though here profit is showing $0.82 if it is accepted by buyer but net profit will be higher than this. All factories have minimum profit limit to grab orders so this philosophy is different for respective factories.

Retail Price: The selling price of product in shop is the retail price of the product. Buyer purchase the garments from factory in FOB price. But they also sell the garments in shop considering all cost involved in taking orders to store including company management cost with margin or profit. Depending upon customer and quality of product the retail prices become three to ten times than FOB price. 
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Article is Written By
Fazlay Rabby James
Merchandiser
FCI BD Ltd.

Costing: Costing is a very familiar word in Garments Industry and can be said as a heart of merchandising. It is also known as Cost sheet, Budget Sheet, BOM (Bill of Material) etc. Actually costing is nothing but a summation of different components price of a garments. But in garments industry especially for beginners costing is considered as very difficult task to learn. This article will give a brief idea about costing through which a beginner can easily understand how to calculate the garments price.


Below is a very common used table to do costing of a garments. Generally costing need to do in Microsoft Excel as to calculate the price of a garment some formulations are required. Before going through the costing procedure if we give an eye on below table then we will get a fair idea about costing format.

In above chart there is some sub category to understand a costing more easily. The aim of costing is to calculate FOB (Freight on Board/Free On Board) price of a garment as buyer buys a garment from a garment manufacturer by this FOB price.
Already I have stated that costing is just a summation of different components price of a garment. But assembling of different component price is not so easy. A merchandiser can’t put any item’s price (either Raw Material Price or consumption or SMV) in costing sheet from his assumption. Each and every item’s price has to be authentic. To get the single price, a merchant take support from different department of his factory to collect fabric consumption, SMV and also then different component price from different trims supplier.

In a nut shell we can tell that, Costing (FOB) = Fabric Cost + Trims Cost+ CM + Wash cost (If applicable)
To do a costing we must need below information.
1.    Tech Pack/Design sketch/Sample of the particular garments with all necessary measurement.
2.    FDS (Fabric Detail Sheet)
3.    Mini Marker (Fabric Consumption)
4.    Trims Price
5.    SMV (Standard Minute Value)
6.    Wash Cost (For Denim and Over dyed program)
Tech Pack/Design Sketch/Sample of the particular garments: It is the details deign sheet by which a pattern master can make a sample pattern and can make sample. This tech pack should have all necessary measurement. A tech pack should have mention all necessary operation, stitching details, component reference etc.
FDS (Fabric Details Sheet): FDS contains generally some basic and mandatory information of fabric like fabric price, composition etc. An FDS must need below information.

1.    Fabric Unit Price
2.    Fabric Cut able Width & Shrinkage Percentage (Without C/W mini marker cannot be made)
3.    Fabric Article/reference number
4.    Mill Name
5.    Fabric Composition
Mini Marker: Mini Marker is a miniature version of marker which contain fabric consumption of a particular style of garments. CAD department do this part. To make mini marker we need
1.    Tech Pack/Design sketch/Sample of the particular style with all necessary measurement.
2.    Fabric Cut able Width & Shrinkage Percentage
Trims Price: Trims Price is another important part of a costing. No garments can be made without trims and accordingly without trims price it is not possible to make a costing. A merchant can collect trims price directly from trims supplier. Sometimes buying merchant source the special trims as per buyer requirement and provide trims price to factory merchant for costing purpose. 
SMV: It denotes Standard Minute Value that states the total number of minutes take to make a garment. Industrial Engineering departments are responsible to calculate SMV. It is calculated considering time of each operation. It is necessary to calculate CM of a garment.


Different Part of a Costing Sheet:
Basic Information: Each cost sheet contain some basic information by which anyone can get a rough idea about the product component and merchandiser can easily track the costing sheet for further use.
Style No: Generally costing has been submitted to buyer after submit a new development sample. And each development sample has a individual style number by which we can track the style for any further use. E.g. 001, 002, Dev-A, Dev-B, 2018MAY01, 2018JUNE04 etc.  
Style Name : Each styling isdesigned by a designer and a designer sometimes give a particular name of that style which name sometime give a basic concept about garment item. E.g. V neck Dress, Zip through Dress, Wide Leg Trouser, Ponte Leggings, Short Sleeve Blouse, Button Trough Blazer Etc.
Fabric Mill, Fabric Reference (Article No), Fabric Cut able Width:Fabric Mill name must need to mention in cost sheet. Otherwise it cannot be understand the fabric manufacturer of the garments.
Fabric Reference:Besides fabric mill name, fabric reference/fabric article number is necessary to track the fabric quality for further use. This fabric reference/article is a individual tracking number given by fabric manufacturer which is unique.

Fabric Description:Fabric description generally means the fabric composition, construction, GSM etc.

Fabric Cut able Width:It is the cut able width of a fabric which width is declared by fabric manufacturer. Fabric cut able width is very important to calculate the fabric consumption. Without fabric cut able width maker cannot be made and as a result consumption cannot be calculated.

Costing Quantity:In a costing generally we calculate FOB for per pcs garments. But besides calculate per PCS FOB we can also calculate total cost for each component for approximate order qty.
Wastage/Loading: Wastage/loading is wastage percentage considered for each individual item. It also vary from factory to factory based on their policy. Many factory considered wastage in fabric but many factory considered no wastage in fabric. But trims wastage must need for each factory and in that case generally sewing trims wastage is more than finishing trims wastage. Sometimes wastage percentage depends on order qty. If quantity less, then obviously wastage will be higher.

Fabric & Trims Fabric Cost:  This is basically shell fabric and other trims fabric cost. Shell fabric means main body fabric and trims fabric means other supporting fabric, contrast fabric, pocketing, binding, piping etc. Fusing/interlining also consider in trims fabric category.
Trims Cost: This is all necessary trims cost for a garments. 

Embellishment:Sometimes we have got special requirement from buyer such as printing, embroidery, heat seal etc. This is called embellishment.  A garment manufacturer generally makes a garment but they may not have embroidery or print facility. In that case garments manufacturer do this part (embroidery/print) in other factory with an agreed unit price under permission from buyer. This is called sub contract production. And this total cost (including garments transportation cost to the third part factory) need to consider in embellishment cost sheet.

Wash: Sometimes buyer ask wash effect in garments. In that case if garments factory have not wash facility that case garments vendor do this part with other sub contract factory. 
Test cost/ Courier Cost:  This cost required based on buyer requirement and as per agreement with buyer. Every buyer have some testing requirement and this testing need to done in third party testing company like SGS, Intertek, UL, TUV etc. To make costing of a garments we need to consider some value for testing as testing charge.

Some buyer need some special sample like SMS (Sales Man Sample), Mock Shop Sample etc and buyer generally pay for this sampling cost and in that case we can considered this cost in costing sheet.

Commercial Cost /Transportation Cost:To ship a goods there is some cost involved which operation is done by commercial department. This is generally a fixed value or percentage value on total cost of a garments which value cover all shipment, transportation and commercial cost.
Miscellaneous:No expenditure is possible without budget and this budget need to consider in particular style costing. To avoid any uncertain budget short generally every factory keep some value in hand as miscellaneous cost.
CM: In costing it denotes Cost of Making that refers the total manufacturing cost involved in making a garment. CM includes the factory operation cost to make the garments. CM of a garment depends on styling of a garment and also depends on factory standard. For easy style CM is less and in such a way for critical style CM is higher. In fact it is related with SMV and overhead cost of the respective production unit.

Therefor, to calculate accurate CM of a garment we have to consider SMV of a garment. Also each factory has e fixed CPM (Cost per Minitue) / EPM (Earn per Minitue). If we multiply this standard CPM with SMV then we will get CM of that garments. Basically CM offer is the main output of experience of a merchandiser. By the basic rules fixed by a factory management (SMVXCPM=CM) we can calculate CM but to offer more logical CM a merchandiser should have proper market knowledge about product price. By this knowledge a merchandiser can bring the business for his company by offering logical, sharp but profitable CM.
FOB without buying commission: If we sum the fabric cost, trims cost, commercial cost, miscellaneous cost and CM then we will get the garments FOB. But this FOB is without any buying commission. Generally we take order through local buying house and there have an agreement with factory and buying house that factory will pay a certain percentage of FOB as commission for confirmed order.
Garments FOB: If we add this buying commission with total cost then we will get actual garments FOB which price we can sell the product to buyer.
Offered FOB & Profit:  Garments FOB is the total cost of a garment making including raw materials cost & CM. To keep some margin on each order factory need to offer final price with some additional invisible cost as there will be some negotiation to place an order finally. 

Need to input all the individual prices in excel sheet to that is already formulated for costing and then check with your seniors or department head to offer this to buyer.

Garments Costing Procedure | Woven Garment Costing | Different Terms of Costing

No comments

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Article is Written By
Fazlay Rabby James
Merchandiser
FCI BD Ltd.

Costing: Costing is a very familiar word in Garments Industry and can be said as a heart of merchandising. It is also known as Cost sheet, Budget Sheet, BOM (Bill of Material) etc. Actually costing is nothing but a summation of different components price of a garments. But in garments industry especially for beginners costing is considered as very difficult task to learn. This article will give a brief idea about costing through which a beginner can easily understand how to calculate the garments price.


Below is a very common used table to do costing of a garments. Generally costing need to do in Microsoft Excel as to calculate the price of a garment some formulations are required. Before going through the costing procedure if we give an eye on below table then we will get a fair idea about costing format.

In above chart there is some sub category to understand a costing more easily. The aim of costing is to calculate FOB (Freight on Board/Free On Board) price of a garment as buyer buys a garment from a garment manufacturer by this FOB price.
Already I have stated that costing is just a summation of different components price of a garment. But assembling of different component price is not so easy. A merchandiser can’t put any item’s price (either Raw Material Price or consumption or SMV) in costing sheet from his assumption. Each and every item’s price has to be authentic. To get the single price, a merchant take support from different department of his factory to collect fabric consumption, SMV and also then different component price from different trims supplier.

In a nut shell we can tell that, Costing (FOB) = Fabric Cost + Trims Cost+ CM + Wash cost (If applicable)
To do a costing we must need below information.
1.    Tech Pack/Design sketch/Sample of the particular garments with all necessary measurement.
2.    FDS (Fabric Detail Sheet)
3.    Mini Marker (Fabric Consumption)
4.    Trims Price
5.    SMV (Standard Minute Value)
6.    Wash Cost (For Denim and Over dyed program)
Tech Pack/Design Sketch/Sample of the particular garments: It is the details deign sheet by which a pattern master can make a sample pattern and can make sample. This tech pack should have all necessary measurement. A tech pack should have mention all necessary operation, stitching details, component reference etc.
FDS (Fabric Details Sheet): FDS contains generally some basic and mandatory information of fabric like fabric price, composition etc. An FDS must need below information.

1.    Fabric Unit Price
2.    Fabric Cut able Width & Shrinkage Percentage (Without C/W mini marker cannot be made)
3.    Fabric Article/reference number
4.    Mill Name
5.    Fabric Composition
Mini Marker: Mini Marker is a miniature version of marker which contain fabric consumption of a particular style of garments. CAD department do this part. To make mini marker we need
1.    Tech Pack/Design sketch/Sample of the particular style with all necessary measurement.
2.    Fabric Cut able Width & Shrinkage Percentage
Trims Price: Trims Price is another important part of a costing. No garments can be made without trims and accordingly without trims price it is not possible to make a costing. A merchant can collect trims price directly from trims supplier. Sometimes buying merchant source the special trims as per buyer requirement and provide trims price to factory merchant for costing purpose. 
SMV: It denotes Standard Minute Value that states the total number of minutes take to make a garment. Industrial Engineering departments are responsible to calculate SMV. It is calculated considering time of each operation. It is necessary to calculate CM of a garment.


Different Part of a Costing Sheet:
Basic Information: Each cost sheet contain some basic information by which anyone can get a rough idea about the product component and merchandiser can easily track the costing sheet for further use.
Style No: Generally costing has been submitted to buyer after submit a new development sample. And each development sample has a individual style number by which we can track the style for any further use. E.g. 001, 002, Dev-A, Dev-B, 2018MAY01, 2018JUNE04 etc.  
Style Name : Each styling isdesigned by a designer and a designer sometimes give a particular name of that style which name sometime give a basic concept about garment item. E.g. V neck Dress, Zip through Dress, Wide Leg Trouser, Ponte Leggings, Short Sleeve Blouse, Button Trough Blazer Etc.
Fabric Mill, Fabric Reference (Article No), Fabric Cut able Width:Fabric Mill name must need to mention in cost sheet. Otherwise it cannot be understand the fabric manufacturer of the garments.
Fabric Reference:Besides fabric mill name, fabric reference/fabric article number is necessary to track the fabric quality for further use. This fabric reference/article is a individual tracking number given by fabric manufacturer which is unique.

Fabric Description:Fabric description generally means the fabric composition, construction, GSM etc.

Fabric Cut able Width:It is the cut able width of a fabric which width is declared by fabric manufacturer. Fabric cut able width is very important to calculate the fabric consumption. Without fabric cut able width maker cannot be made and as a result consumption cannot be calculated.

Costing Quantity:In a costing generally we calculate FOB for per pcs garments. But besides calculate per PCS FOB we can also calculate total cost for each component for approximate order qty.
Wastage/Loading: Wastage/loading is wastage percentage considered for each individual item. It also vary from factory to factory based on their policy. Many factory considered wastage in fabric but many factory considered no wastage in fabric. But trims wastage must need for each factory and in that case generally sewing trims wastage is more than finishing trims wastage. Sometimes wastage percentage depends on order qty. If quantity less, then obviously wastage will be higher.

Fabric & Trims Fabric Cost:  This is basically shell fabric and other trims fabric cost. Shell fabric means main body fabric and trims fabric means other supporting fabric, contrast fabric, pocketing, binding, piping etc. Fusing/interlining also consider in trims fabric category.
Trims Cost: This is all necessary trims cost for a garments. 

Embellishment:Sometimes we have got special requirement from buyer such as printing, embroidery, heat seal etc. This is called embellishment.  A garment manufacturer generally makes a garment but they may not have embroidery or print facility. In that case garments manufacturer do this part (embroidery/print) in other factory with an agreed unit price under permission from buyer. This is called sub contract production. And this total cost (including garments transportation cost to the third part factory) need to consider in embellishment cost sheet.

Wash: Sometimes buyer ask wash effect in garments. In that case if garments factory have not wash facility that case garments vendor do this part with other sub contract factory. 
Test cost/ Courier Cost:  This cost required based on buyer requirement and as per agreement with buyer. Every buyer have some testing requirement and this testing need to done in third party testing company like SGS, Intertek, UL, TUV etc. To make costing of a garments we need to consider some value for testing as testing charge.

Some buyer need some special sample like SMS (Sales Man Sample), Mock Shop Sample etc and buyer generally pay for this sampling cost and in that case we can considered this cost in costing sheet.

Commercial Cost /Transportation Cost:To ship a goods there is some cost involved which operation is done by commercial department. This is generally a fixed value or percentage value on total cost of a garments which value cover all shipment, transportation and commercial cost.
Miscellaneous:No expenditure is possible without budget and this budget need to consider in particular style costing. To avoid any uncertain budget short generally every factory keep some value in hand as miscellaneous cost.
CM: In costing it denotes Cost of Making that refers the total manufacturing cost involved in making a garment. CM includes the factory operation cost to make the garments. CM of a garment depends on styling of a garment and also depends on factory standard. For easy style CM is less and in such a way for critical style CM is higher. In fact it is related with SMV and overhead cost of the respective production unit.

Therefor, to calculate accurate CM of a garment we have to consider SMV of a garment. Also each factory has e fixed CPM (Cost per Minitue) / EPM (Earn per Minitue). If we multiply this standard CPM with SMV then we will get CM of that garments. Basically CM offer is the main output of experience of a merchandiser. By the basic rules fixed by a factory management (SMVXCPM=CM) we can calculate CM but to offer more logical CM a merchandiser should have proper market knowledge about product price. By this knowledge a merchandiser can bring the business for his company by offering logical, sharp but profitable CM.
FOB without buying commission: If we sum the fabric cost, trims cost, commercial cost, miscellaneous cost and CM then we will get the garments FOB. But this FOB is without any buying commission. Generally we take order through local buying house and there have an agreement with factory and buying house that factory will pay a certain percentage of FOB as commission for confirmed order.
Garments FOB: If we add this buying commission with total cost then we will get actual garments FOB which price we can sell the product to buyer.
Offered FOB & Profit:  Garments FOB is the total cost of a garment making including raw materials cost & CM. To keep some margin on each order factory need to offer final price with some additional invisible cost as there will be some negotiation to place an order finally. 

Need to input all the individual prices in excel sheet to that is already formulated for costing and then check with your seniors or department head to offer this to buyer.

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