International Wash Care Instructions Used in Garment | Home Laundering and Drycleaning Symbols for Clothing

Man does not buy garments for temporary or one time used. When we use garments they become dirty and needs to washed off. All types of garment should not wash with general soap or detergent. Some garments need not wash, they are typically dry cleaned and some are washed but not apply in chlorine bleach or any other solvents. Water temperature is also another factor for garment washing because there might be some decorative elements which will be destroyed. So garments should be washed with the specific care instructions suggest by the seller normally. 

To take care of garments there are some symbols and details  which are recognized internationally and they are used in garment care labels. These symbols are usually known as garment care labeling code or symbols.

At a minimum, laundering instructions include, in order, four symbols: washing, bleaching, drying, and ironing. Dry cleaning instructions include one symbol. Additional symbols or words or both may be used to clarify the instructions. The water temperatures listed are provided as a guideline. Actual water temperatures obtained in the home depend on the washing machine settings (hot, warm, cold), regional water supply temperatures, and water heating settings.

To assist consumers in getting information about clothing care, the Federal Trade Commission in 1971 issued the Care Labeling Rule. This Rule requires manufacturers and importers to attach care instructions to garment. A revised version of this Rule became effective on January 2, 1984. The revisions to the Rule were based on information gathered by the Commission through public hearings and written comments. Data revealed that while consumers found care labels to be useful, they also believed labels were often incomplete, inaccurate, and inconsistent.

The revised version of the Rule makes no major modifications. rather, the changes clarify the Rule requirements and simplify the Rule language. The Commission anticipates that these changes will make it easier for industry to comply with the Rule. In turn, consumers will benefit from clearer and more complete care instructions.

Care labels often are a deciding factor when consumers shop for clothing. While some are looking for the convenience of dry cleaning, others prefer the economy of buying garments they can wash. Some manufacturers try to reach both markets with garments that can be cleaned by either method. The Rule allows you to provide more than one set of care instructions, if you have a reasonable basis for each instruction.

The Federal Trade Commission has developed this business manual to assist you in understanding and complying with the Rule. If you have questions not addressed in this booklet, write to the Federal Trade Commission, Enforcement Division. Bureau of Consumer Protection, Washington, D. C. 20580.

Wash Care Symbols and Details

Bleaching Care Symbols 

Drying Care Symbols

Dry Cleaning Symbols

 Ironing Symbols

International Wash Care Instructions Used in Garment | Home Laundering and Drycleaning Symbols for Clothing

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Man does not buy garments for temporary or one time used. When we use garments they become dirty and needs to washed off. All types of garment should not wash with general soap or detergent. Some garments need not wash, they are typically dry cleaned and some are washed but not apply in chlorine bleach or any other solvents. Water temperature is also another factor for garment washing because there might be some decorative elements which will be destroyed. So garments should be washed with the specific care instructions suggest by the seller normally. 

To take care of garments there are some symbols and details  which are recognized internationally and they are used in garment care labels. These symbols are usually known as garment care labeling code or symbols.

At a minimum, laundering instructions include, in order, four symbols: washing, bleaching, drying, and ironing. Dry cleaning instructions include one symbol. Additional symbols or words or both may be used to clarify the instructions. The water temperatures listed are provided as a guideline. Actual water temperatures obtained in the home depend on the washing machine settings (hot, warm, cold), regional water supply temperatures, and water heating settings.

To assist consumers in getting information about clothing care, the Federal Trade Commission in 1971 issued the Care Labeling Rule. This Rule requires manufacturers and importers to attach care instructions to garment. A revised version of this Rule became effective on January 2, 1984. The revisions to the Rule were based on information gathered by the Commission through public hearings and written comments. Data revealed that while consumers found care labels to be useful, they also believed labels were often incomplete, inaccurate, and inconsistent.

The revised version of the Rule makes no major modifications. rather, the changes clarify the Rule requirements and simplify the Rule language. The Commission anticipates that these changes will make it easier for industry to comply with the Rule. In turn, consumers will benefit from clearer and more complete care instructions.

Care labels often are a deciding factor when consumers shop for clothing. While some are looking for the convenience of dry cleaning, others prefer the economy of buying garments they can wash. Some manufacturers try to reach both markets with garments that can be cleaned by either method. The Rule allows you to provide more than one set of care instructions, if you have a reasonable basis for each instruction.

The Federal Trade Commission has developed this business manual to assist you in understanding and complying with the Rule. If you have questions not addressed in this booklet, write to the Federal Trade Commission, Enforcement Division. Bureau of Consumer Protection, Washington, D. C. 20580.

Wash Care Symbols and Details

Bleaching Care Symbols 

Drying Care Symbols

Dry Cleaning Symbols

 Ironing Symbols

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Garemnt Costing Procedure | Details of Garment Costing | Woven and Knit Garment Cost Sheet

Costing is very important for getting an order as well as it focuses the future trends of any industry. To make a effective, profitable and competitive cost sheet one must know about all the processes involves in garments manufacturing very well. All the updated news and costs of fabric, CM of particular garments, trims, wash cost, embroidery cost, traveling cost, terms of payments must be known. Merchandiser is the key person who is responsible for the costing of any item. Now the world is becoming more competitive for garments market and manufacturing as well. So a competitive cost sheet of any item affect the growth of any company.While the industry recorded a remarkable growth in a protected market environment, it faces a series of challenges that have come to the fore in the post-quota situation, notably in areas such as:

• Price competitiveness.
• Faster lead times.
• High raw material base.
• Full service offering.
• Access to market. "A Cost is the value of economic resources used as a result of producing or doing the things costed".

Garments costing is effectively dependent on the fabrication. We all know that there are main two types of garments are available, knit and woven. Fabric consumption is one of the main element of garments costing. You can save much with doing better fabric consumption for both woven and knit. Woven fabrics are generally calculated in yards and knit fabrics are in kgs.

Woven Garments Consumption Calculation in Details

Knit Garments Consumption Calculation in Details

The basic requirements of garments costing are-

• Fabric Consumption
• CM of  particular styles
• Printing cost
• Embroidery cost
• Wash cost
• Trims cost(Zipper, button, Label, Tape etc)
• Accessories cost (Tag pin, Hanger, Price Ticket, Hang Tag etc)
• Traveling cost

 Now the thing is that how will you get those things to make a cost sheet. For fabric consumption you can follow the consumption formulas to find out how many fabrics are required for a garment and the measurement you will get from the techpack given by buyer. Now for CM you can get assist from your manager of higher management to get a effective CM. For wash cost please see the costing manual given by buyer and for printing and embroidery will depend on styles. For trims and accessories you must follow the BOM (Bill Of Materials) given by buyer for a specific style. I am sharing a BOM with you to know well.

BOM(Bill of Materials)

Now you required a costing sheet or format where you put the item name and values to get the final FOB of a style.A well decorated cost sheet makes the job easier and faster.If you use a cost sheet there is a less chance to miss any particular costing heads when you are in hurry. Many times it is needed to know how we reach to the final FOB. A well designed cost sheet will help you trace all details of costing. Cost sheet will also gives cost break up for future reference.

If you have product technical sheet then you can calculate the exact fabric consumption of a garment. Average fabric consumption also depends on nature of the fabric, like tubular or open width fabric. Whether fabric is solid colored, check or stripe or any specific design repeat required. 

Knit Garments Costing Sheet Format:

 Woven Garments Costing Sheet Format:

 

 If anyone needs to get the excel format please mil me on fkweb24@gmail.com as well.

Garemnt Costing Procedure | Details of Garment Costing | Woven and Knit Garment Cost Sheet

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Costing is very important for getting an order as well as it focuses the future trends of any industry. To make a effective, profitable and competitive cost sheet one must know about all the processes involves in garments manufacturing very well. All the updated news and costs of fabric, CM of particular garments, trims, wash cost, embroidery cost, traveling cost, terms of payments must be known. Merchandiser is the key person who is responsible for the costing of any item. Now the world is becoming more competitive for garments market and manufacturing as well. So a competitive cost sheet of any item affect the growth of any company.While the industry recorded a remarkable growth in a protected market environment, it faces a series of challenges that have come to the fore in the post-quota situation, notably in areas such as:

• Price competitiveness.
• Faster lead times.
• High raw material base.
• Full service offering.
• Access to market. "A Cost is the value of economic resources used as a result of producing or doing the things costed".

Garments costing is effectively dependent on the fabrication. We all know that there are main two types of garments are available, knit and woven. Fabric consumption is one of the main element of garments costing. You can save much with doing better fabric consumption for both woven and knit. Woven fabrics are generally calculated in yards and knit fabrics are in kgs.

Woven Garments Consumption Calculation in Details

Knit Garments Consumption Calculation in Details

The basic requirements of garments costing are-

• Fabric Consumption
• CM of  particular styles
• Printing cost
• Embroidery cost
• Wash cost
• Trims cost(Zipper, button, Label, Tape etc)
• Accessories cost (Tag pin, Hanger, Price Ticket, Hang Tag etc)
• Traveling cost

 Now the thing is that how will you get those things to make a cost sheet. For fabric consumption you can follow the consumption formulas to find out how many fabrics are required for a garment and the measurement you will get from the techpack given by buyer. Now for CM you can get assist from your manager of higher management to get a effective CM. For wash cost please see the costing manual given by buyer and for printing and embroidery will depend on styles. For trims and accessories you must follow the BOM (Bill Of Materials) given by buyer for a specific style. I am sharing a BOM with you to know well.

BOM(Bill of Materials)

Now you required a costing sheet or format where you put the item name and values to get the final FOB of a style.A well decorated cost sheet makes the job easier and faster.If you use a cost sheet there is a less chance to miss any particular costing heads when you are in hurry. Many times it is needed to know how we reach to the final FOB. A well designed cost sheet will help you trace all details of costing. Cost sheet will also gives cost break up for future reference.

If you have product technical sheet then you can calculate the exact fabric consumption of a garment. Average fabric consumption also depends on nature of the fabric, like tubular or open width fabric. Whether fabric is solid colored, check or stripe or any specific design repeat required. 

Knit Garments Costing Sheet Format:

 Woven Garments Costing Sheet Format:

 

 If anyone needs to get the excel format please mil me on fkweb24@gmail.com as well.

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Progressive Bundle System of Garments Production | Traditional Garment Production System

The most common and traditional system of garment production is progressive bundle. Still now it has been used more than other systems.

This system of apparel  production is so called because the bundles of garment parts that are forward sequentially from one process to another. There need to complete a specific operation or component. For example neck join is a single process, through this kind of system an operator will join neck of full bundle then it will forward to another operator.


This kind of system has been called as its name from the bundles of garment parts that are moved sequentially from one to another operation. It is often referred to as the traditional process, has been widely used by the manufacturers for several decades and still in today. The American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) Technical Advisory Committee (1993) reported that 80 percent of the manufacturers use it. They also predicted that use of this type of system would decrease as firms seek more flexibility.


Bundle sizes may range from two to a hundred parts. Some industries operate with a standard bundle size of particular garments, whereas others vary bundle sizes according to cutting orders, fabric shading, size of the pieces in the bundle, and the operation that is to be completed. Some of them use a dozen or multiples of a dozen of garments because their sales are in dozens. Bundles of garments are assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are matched up with similar parts and bundle tickets.

Bundles of cut parts are transferred to the sewing section to concern operators and they are scheduled to complete the production. One operator is expected to perform the same operation on all the pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle, process coupon, and set it aside until it is picked up and moved to the next operator. In this process may require a high volume of work in process cause of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of backup that is needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all operators.

It might be used with a skill center or line layout depending on the order that bundles are advanced through production. Each style may have different processing requirements and thus different routing. Routing identifies the basic operations, sequences of  production, and the skill centers where those  operations are to be performed. Many of the operations are common to multiple styles in that case work may build up waiting to be processed.


Advantages of  progressive bundle system:
The of this system is of making may depend on how the production system is set up and used in a plant. It may allow better utilization of specialized machines, as output from one special purpose automated machine may be able to supply several operators for the next operation. Small bundles of fabrics allow faster throughout unless there are bottlenecks and extensive waiting between operations.

Disadvantages of progressive bundle system:
This processing type is driven by cost efficiency for individual operations. The operators perform the same operation on a continuing basis, which allows them to increase their speed and productivity but who are compensated by piece rates become extremely efficient at one piece operation and may not be willing to learn a new style because it reduces their efficiency and earnings. Individuals that work here  are dependent on other operators and the final product.

Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause major bottlenecks within the system. Large quantities of work in process are often characteristic this may lead to longer throughput time, poor quality concealed by bundles of fabrics, large inventory, extra handling, and difficulty in controlling inventory of whole processing.
 

Progressive Bundle System of Garments Production | Traditional Garment Production System

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The most common and traditional system of garment production is progressive bundle. Still now it has been used more than other systems.

This system of apparel  production is so called because the bundles of garment parts that are forward sequentially from one process to another. There need to complete a specific operation or component. For example neck join is a single process, through this kind of system an operator will join neck of full bundle then it will forward to another operator.


This kind of system has been called as its name from the bundles of garment parts that are moved sequentially from one to another operation. It is often referred to as the traditional process, has been widely used by the manufacturers for several decades and still in today. The American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA) Technical Advisory Committee (1993) reported that 80 percent of the manufacturers use it. They also predicted that use of this type of system would decrease as firms seek more flexibility.


Bundle sizes may range from two to a hundred parts. Some industries operate with a standard bundle size of particular garments, whereas others vary bundle sizes according to cutting orders, fabric shading, size of the pieces in the bundle, and the operation that is to be completed. Some of them use a dozen or multiples of a dozen of garments because their sales are in dozens. Bundles of garments are assembled in the cutting room where cut parts are matched up with similar parts and bundle tickets.

Bundles of cut parts are transferred to the sewing section to concern operators and they are scheduled to complete the production. One operator is expected to perform the same operation on all the pieces in the bundle, retie the bundle, process coupon, and set it aside until it is picked up and moved to the next operator. In this process may require a high volume of work in process cause of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of backup that is needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all operators.

It might be used with a skill center or line layout depending on the order that bundles are advanced through production. Each style may have different processing requirements and thus different routing. Routing identifies the basic operations, sequences of  production, and the skill centers where those  operations are to be performed. Many of the operations are common to multiple styles in that case work may build up waiting to be processed.


Advantages of  progressive bundle system:
The of this system is of making may depend on how the production system is set up and used in a plant. It may allow better utilization of specialized machines, as output from one special purpose automated machine may be able to supply several operators for the next operation. Small bundles of fabrics allow faster throughout unless there are bottlenecks and extensive waiting between operations.

Disadvantages of progressive bundle system:
This processing type is driven by cost efficiency for individual operations. The operators perform the same operation on a continuing basis, which allows them to increase their speed and productivity but who are compensated by piece rates become extremely efficient at one piece operation and may not be willing to learn a new style because it reduces their efficiency and earnings. Individuals that work here  are dependent on other operators and the final product.

Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause major bottlenecks within the system. Large quantities of work in process are often characteristic this may lead to longer throughput time, poor quality concealed by bundles of fabrics, large inventory, extra handling, and difficulty in controlling inventory of whole processing.
 

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Garment Production Systems | Production Systems in a Typical Apparel Manufacturing Industry

From the process flow chart of textile processing we have already known garments making is the final stage of any textile material. This is the final stage where garments are being ready to wear by the customers. Garment making is the key objective of any textile processing so we can treat this as much valuable portion of textile production. It includes the production of finished cloths. This is an integration of materials handling, production processes, personnel, and equipment that directs work flow and generates finished goods.

The below mentioned types of systems commonly used for bulk production:

To get more successful result each and every system requires an appropriate management philosophy, materials handling methods, floor layout for spreading, , cutting & sewing,  and employee training. Firms may combine or adapt these systems to meet their desired quantity they need. Industries either use only one system or a combination of two or more for a single line, or different systems for different lines in the same unit.

Progressive Bundle System:

This system of apparel  production is so called because the bundles of garment parts that are forward sequentially from one process to another. There need to complete a specific operation or component. For example neck join is a single process, through this kind of system an operator will join neck of full bundle then it will forward to another operator.

Overhead or Unit Production System

This kind of system is a type of line feeding that uses an overhead transporter system to forward  parts from work station to work station for assembly. All the components for a single garment to be advanced through the production line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.

Modular Production System

It is a contained, manageable work unit that includes an empowered work team, equipment, and work to be executed. Modules frequently operate as mini-factories with teams responsible for group goals and self-management. The number of teams in a plant varies with the size and needs of the firm and product line in factories.

Make Through System
Through this system only one man can make a garment alone with doing all task to complete the whole process.It is frequently done in tailors where the tailor even makes pattern or use common patterns to cut fabric and does finishing of the garment. Single person of tailor shops do all jobs from cut to pack. In this system tailors are not depended to others.

Section Production System
This system is similar to the traditional progressive bundle system. But the difference is that, instead of one line, work is divided into multiple sections. Machines of similar operations are clubbed together instead of spreading over in all lines. For example, when a man’s formal shirt is being made in a section layout – collars, cuffs and sleeves are in the preparatory sections and then send to the assembly section. This system is popular to improve line balancing and utilization of human resources.

One Piece Flow System 

In this system an operator will responsible to make his operation as single garment basis and forward it to another operator. Instead of making a bundle of multiple pieces, bundle is made with all components of a single piece. Sewing machines in One-piece-flow system can be laid in a straight line or modular line. The key advantages of this system are less through put time, less WIP in the line.

Piece Rate Production System
This is one kind of  most popular production system in small and unorganized garment industries. Though people called it piece rate system, actually it is not a production system. Whatever Production system is used as mentioned above, when operators are paid according their works  that means how many pieces produced in an hour or a day, is named as piece rate system. Where workers gets value than traditional systems and will be paid day to day basis as well.

Combinations of Production Systems 

Factories may use first processing method for producing small parts combined with modular method. This reduces the investment in specialized equipment and reduces the team size needed. Industry consultants believe that a modular system combined with a unit system provides the most flexibility, fastest throughput, and most consistent quality. This would be particularly useful for large items such as overalls or heavy coats. The UPS would move the garment instead of the operators. Each manufacturer needs to determine what is best for specific styles.

Garment Production Systems | Production Systems in a Typical Apparel Manufacturing Industry

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From the process flow chart of textile processing we have already known garments making is the final stage of any textile material. This is the final stage where garments are being ready to wear by the customers. Garment making is the key objective of any textile processing so we can treat this as much valuable portion of textile production. It includes the production of finished cloths. This is an integration of materials handling, production processes, personnel, and equipment that directs work flow and generates finished goods.

The below mentioned types of systems commonly used for bulk production:

To get more successful result each and every system requires an appropriate management philosophy, materials handling methods, floor layout for spreading, , cutting & sewing,  and employee training. Firms may combine or adapt these systems to meet their desired quantity they need. Industries either use only one system or a combination of two or more for a single line, or different systems for different lines in the same unit.

Progressive Bundle System:

This system of apparel  production is so called because the bundles of garment parts that are forward sequentially from one process to another. There need to complete a specific operation or component. For example neck join is a single process, through this kind of system an operator will join neck of full bundle then it will forward to another operator.

Overhead or Unit Production System

This kind of system is a type of line feeding that uses an overhead transporter system to forward  parts from work station to work station for assembly. All the components for a single garment to be advanced through the production line together by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.

Modular Production System

It is a contained, manageable work unit that includes an empowered work team, equipment, and work to be executed. Modules frequently operate as mini-factories with teams responsible for group goals and self-management. The number of teams in a plant varies with the size and needs of the firm and product line in factories.

Make Through System
Through this system only one man can make a garment alone with doing all task to complete the whole process.It is frequently done in tailors where the tailor even makes pattern or use common patterns to cut fabric and does finishing of the garment. Single person of tailor shops do all jobs from cut to pack. In this system tailors are not depended to others.

Section Production System
This system is similar to the traditional progressive bundle system. But the difference is that, instead of one line, work is divided into multiple sections. Machines of similar operations are clubbed together instead of spreading over in all lines. For example, when a man’s formal shirt is being made in a section layout – collars, cuffs and sleeves are in the preparatory sections and then send to the assembly section. This system is popular to improve line balancing and utilization of human resources.

One Piece Flow System 

In this system an operator will responsible to make his operation as single garment basis and forward it to another operator. Instead of making a bundle of multiple pieces, bundle is made with all components of a single piece. Sewing machines in One-piece-flow system can be laid in a straight line or modular line. The key advantages of this system are less through put time, less WIP in the line.

Piece Rate Production System
This is one kind of  most popular production system in small and unorganized garment industries. Though people called it piece rate system, actually it is not a production system. Whatever Production system is used as mentioned above, when operators are paid according their works  that means how many pieces produced in an hour or a day, is named as piece rate system. Where workers gets value than traditional systems and will be paid day to day basis as well.

Combinations of Production Systems 

Factories may use first processing method for producing small parts combined with modular method. This reduces the investment in specialized equipment and reduces the team size needed. Industry consultants believe that a modular system combined with a unit system provides the most flexibility, fastest throughput, and most consistent quality. This would be particularly useful for large items such as overalls or heavy coats. The UPS would move the garment instead of the operators. Each manufacturer needs to determine what is best for specific styles.

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Garments Sewing Machines | Overview of Garments Sewing Machines | Recenet Development of Sewing Machine

Stitching or sewing can be defines as the joining of two or more parts by sewing thread to make seam line through various methods. It’s one f the key process of garment manufacturing. Sewing section is the biggest section in a garments industry. The main purpose of sewing is to produce seam.

Basic Features of Sewing Machines:
I.    They are generally available in 3 versions for sewing light, medium or heavy weight materials.
II.    With the addition of a programmable microprocessor control system.
III.    Many versions of this machine have bobbins which hold 50% more thread than the conventional bobbin.
IV.    Electronically controlled thread cutting,tacking,needle positioning and foot lifting systems have become standard equipment on these and many other machines.

The most common machine which are used in garments industries are as follows-
I.    Plain Sewing M/C 
II.    Overlock M/c (3, 4 and 4 Thread)
III.    Flatlock M/C
IV.    Button Sewing M/C
V.    Kansai Special M/C
VI.    Feed of the Arm
VII.    Button Holing M/C
VIII.    Button Attaching M/C
IX.    Bartacking Machine
X.    Fusing M/C
XI.    Ironing M/C

Advancement of Plain Sewing Machine: The modern plain sewing machine has following advanced features-

Auto needle up-down:-This one is huge. It makes sewing so many different project SO much easier! When you press the needle up/down button, it will make sure the needle always stops in either the up or down position at the end of your seam.
                           
Locking Stitch Button: Just like it sounds, this button locks your stitch for you, basically making it so you don't have to sew backward (or back-tack) at the start and end of a seam.

One Hand Needle Threader: This is a needle threader built into the machine. Usually, you pull down a special mechanism, which catches your thread and pokes it through the eye of the needle for you, so you don't have to strain to see. It's a great time-saver and minimizes frustration.

Knee Lift: A knee lift is a lever that hooks into the side of the machine and hangs over the table to your - well, to your knee. Otherwise, why would they call it a knee lift? When this apparatus is plugged into the machine, it allows you to raise and lower the presser foot by pushing the knee lift, so you can keep your hands on your fabric.

Automatic Thread Cutter: This feature is something found mostly on the very high quality machines, but it is fantastic! When you touch the scissor key, it snips your top and bobbin thread for you.

Speed Control Slider: This is like the cruise control of sewing. It helps keep you on task if you want to go slowly and carefully or pushes the limit when you're ready to roll, like when stitching long, straight seams.

Advancement of Over lock Sewing Machine:

Three Thread Overlock With A Microprocessor: Based on a regular sewing m/c this version is used for the assembly seaming of garments made up of light weight knitted fabrics.

The modernization of the machine includes a microprocessor which enables the accurate calibration of stitch tension without manually adjusting the spring tensioners, and permits automatic cutting of the thread chain at the beginning and end of seams.

  A “tractor-foot” can be fitted to this m/c when sewing seams with varying thickness.Speed of this m/c is upto 8500 rpm where in traditional sewing m/c speed is upto 6500rpm.

Advancement of Kansai Machine: Kansai Special FX series:

FX series is a versatile multi-needle, cylinder bed, double chain stitch machine with vertical looper movement mechanism.

Major features of this series are wide range of available gauge sizes (4~12 needles) , cylinder bed (420mm in circumference), elastic guide roller and Kansai Special's unique rear puller mechanism.
These features make this series popular for attaching preclosed elastic.

Kansai Special's unique UTC (automatic thread cutter) increases productivity by trimming thread accurately and leaving less thread, which curtail production cost.

Applications:
Attaching elastic and line tape to sweat pants, pajamas, trunks and similar garments. 

Advancement of Flat lock Machine:

 High Speed Stretch Sewing Machine
We are a leading company to supply a well designed and well developed High Speed Stretch Sewing Machine made with fine grade raw materials on the basis of industrial parameters.  Highly useful for kit items and garment seaming, this machine has flat lock machine has been connected with oil recycle system to avoid any leakage of the oil.       

    

Development Of The Feed Of The Arm Machine: (SX-6 T803PD-Feed Of The Arm M/C)
SX series is a 3 needle feed off the arm, double chain stitch machine with upper puller.Major features of this series are upper puller and differential feed mechanism. These features feed the fabric uniformly so that the machine can inseam jeans even at the cross seam sections.Puckering is no longer your concern.
     

Applications: lap seaming or side seaming on heavy weight fabrics such as jeans and work pants.

Features Of Some Special Types Of Sewing Machine:

Various special types of sewing machine are available in market.They are used for various purposes related to sewing.Some those are described below:

Smocking Machine: Smocking is an embroidery technique with its first recorded use as a type of hand stitching used for the purpose of producing elasticity and stretch within garments before elastic was created. This technique is also implemented to control the fullness of a piece of fabric.

Smocking is used when fashioning garments, as well as when making curtains, upholstery pieces, and clothing for dolls, among other things.
(KS-1312PS) These Sewing Machines have special type of make comprised of 12 needles flat-bed chain stitch PMD Machine. These products have intense efficiency that has maximum resistance towards mechanical deflection.

Quilting Machine:
The SINGER CONFIDENCE QUILTER sewing machine is the perfect machine for new and skilled quilters alike. With many advanced features including the DROP & SEW bobbin system,

programmable needle up/down, drop feed for free motion sewing, twin needle sewing capability, extension table and push-button stitch selection, sewing and quilting are enjoyable and relaxing. 98 stitch patterns, adjustable stitch length and width and standard accessories, including popular quilting presser feet allows for ultimate creativity.

Electronic Direct Drive Lockstitch Button Holer: HE-800B
•    Less sewing troubles with the newly designed hook
•    Beautiful sewing finishes even fine patterns
•    High energy saving by direct drive system
•    Easy and operator-intuitive operation panel
•    Comfortable sewing with less noise

Characteristics of This Machine:
I.    Lockstitch
II.    Button Holing
III.    Thread Trimmer
IV.    Direct Drive

Typical Application: Jacket, Shirt, Blouse etc.

Blind Stitch Sewing Machine:
A blind stitch in sewing is a method of joining two pieces of fabric so that the stitch thread is invisible, or nearly invisible.There are several techniques for creating a blind stitch by hand sewing. A common technique used to create a hem, or "blind hem", hides the stitches on both sides of the garment.

Blind Stitch Machine:
A sewing machine can also create a blind hem. In this case, a specialty presser foot is needed. A zigzag stitch technique may be used with a sewing machine to create a blind stitch.

Picoting Machine: This machine is suitable for decorative stitches on ladies dresses,shirts,handicraft,necktie,tablecloth etc.Applied with timing belt mechanism,providing smooth & noseless stitching even in high speed running.        

Garments Sewing Machines | Overview of Garments Sewing Machines | Recenet Development of Sewing Machine

No comments

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Stitching or sewing can be defines as the joining of two or more parts by sewing thread to make seam line through various methods. It’s one f the key process of garment manufacturing. Sewing section is the biggest section in a garments industry. The main purpose of sewing is to produce seam.

Basic Features of Sewing Machines:
I.    They are generally available in 3 versions for sewing light, medium or heavy weight materials.
II.    With the addition of a programmable microprocessor control system.
III.    Many versions of this machine have bobbins which hold 50% more thread than the conventional bobbin.
IV.    Electronically controlled thread cutting,tacking,needle positioning and foot lifting systems have become standard equipment on these and many other machines.

The most common machine which are used in garments industries are as follows-
I.    Plain Sewing M/C 
II.    Overlock M/c (3, 4 and 4 Thread)
III.    Flatlock M/C
IV.    Button Sewing M/C
V.    Kansai Special M/C
VI.    Feed of the Arm
VII.    Button Holing M/C
VIII.    Button Attaching M/C
IX.    Bartacking Machine
X.    Fusing M/C
XI.    Ironing M/C

Advancement of Plain Sewing Machine: The modern plain sewing machine has following advanced features-

Auto needle up-down:-This one is huge. It makes sewing so many different project SO much easier! When you press the needle up/down button, it will make sure the needle always stops in either the up or down position at the end of your seam.
                           
Locking Stitch Button: Just like it sounds, this button locks your stitch for you, basically making it so you don't have to sew backward (or back-tack) at the start and end of a seam.

One Hand Needle Threader: This is a needle threader built into the machine. Usually, you pull down a special mechanism, which catches your thread and pokes it through the eye of the needle for you, so you don't have to strain to see. It's a great time-saver and minimizes frustration.

Knee Lift: A knee lift is a lever that hooks into the side of the machine and hangs over the table to your - well, to your knee. Otherwise, why would they call it a knee lift? When this apparatus is plugged into the machine, it allows you to raise and lower the presser foot by pushing the knee lift, so you can keep your hands on your fabric.

Automatic Thread Cutter: This feature is something found mostly on the very high quality machines, but it is fantastic! When you touch the scissor key, it snips your top and bobbin thread for you.

Speed Control Slider: This is like the cruise control of sewing. It helps keep you on task if you want to go slowly and carefully or pushes the limit when you're ready to roll, like when stitching long, straight seams.

Advancement of Over lock Sewing Machine:

Three Thread Overlock With A Microprocessor: Based on a regular sewing m/c this version is used for the assembly seaming of garments made up of light weight knitted fabrics.

The modernization of the machine includes a microprocessor which enables the accurate calibration of stitch tension without manually adjusting the spring tensioners, and permits automatic cutting of the thread chain at the beginning and end of seams.

  A “tractor-foot” can be fitted to this m/c when sewing seams with varying thickness.Speed of this m/c is upto 8500 rpm where in traditional sewing m/c speed is upto 6500rpm.

Advancement of Kansai Machine: Kansai Special FX series:

FX series is a versatile multi-needle, cylinder bed, double chain stitch machine with vertical looper movement mechanism.

Major features of this series are wide range of available gauge sizes (4~12 needles) , cylinder bed (420mm in circumference), elastic guide roller and Kansai Special's unique rear puller mechanism.
These features make this series popular for attaching preclosed elastic.

Kansai Special's unique UTC (automatic thread cutter) increases productivity by trimming thread accurately and leaving less thread, which curtail production cost.

Applications:
Attaching elastic and line tape to sweat pants, pajamas, trunks and similar garments. 

Advancement of Flat lock Machine:

 High Speed Stretch Sewing Machine
We are a leading company to supply a well designed and well developed High Speed Stretch Sewing Machine made with fine grade raw materials on the basis of industrial parameters.  Highly useful for kit items and garment seaming, this machine has flat lock machine has been connected with oil recycle system to avoid any leakage of the oil.       

    

Development Of The Feed Of The Arm Machine: (SX-6 T803PD-Feed Of The Arm M/C)
SX series is a 3 needle feed off the arm, double chain stitch machine with upper puller.Major features of this series are upper puller and differential feed mechanism. These features feed the fabric uniformly so that the machine can inseam jeans even at the cross seam sections.Puckering is no longer your concern.
     

Applications: lap seaming or side seaming on heavy weight fabrics such as jeans and work pants.

Features Of Some Special Types Of Sewing Machine:

Various special types of sewing machine are available in market.They are used for various purposes related to sewing.Some those are described below:

Smocking Machine: Smocking is an embroidery technique with its first recorded use as a type of hand stitching used for the purpose of producing elasticity and stretch within garments before elastic was created. This technique is also implemented to control the fullness of a piece of fabric.

Smocking is used when fashioning garments, as well as when making curtains, upholstery pieces, and clothing for dolls, among other things.
(KS-1312PS) These Sewing Machines have special type of make comprised of 12 needles flat-bed chain stitch PMD Machine. These products have intense efficiency that has maximum resistance towards mechanical deflection.

Quilting Machine:
The SINGER CONFIDENCE QUILTER sewing machine is the perfect machine for new and skilled quilters alike. With many advanced features including the DROP & SEW bobbin system,

programmable needle up/down, drop feed for free motion sewing, twin needle sewing capability, extension table and push-button stitch selection, sewing and quilting are enjoyable and relaxing. 98 stitch patterns, adjustable stitch length and width and standard accessories, including popular quilting presser feet allows for ultimate creativity.

Electronic Direct Drive Lockstitch Button Holer: HE-800B
•    Less sewing troubles with the newly designed hook
•    Beautiful sewing finishes even fine patterns
•    High energy saving by direct drive system
•    Easy and operator-intuitive operation panel
•    Comfortable sewing with less noise

Characteristics of This Machine:
I.    Lockstitch
II.    Button Holing
III.    Thread Trimmer
IV.    Direct Drive

Typical Application: Jacket, Shirt, Blouse etc.

Blind Stitch Sewing Machine:
A blind stitch in sewing is a method of joining two pieces of fabric so that the stitch thread is invisible, or nearly invisible.There are several techniques for creating a blind stitch by hand sewing. A common technique used to create a hem, or "blind hem", hides the stitches on both sides of the garment.

Blind Stitch Machine:
A sewing machine can also create a blind hem. In this case, a specialty presser foot is needed. A zigzag stitch technique may be used with a sewing machine to create a blind stitch.

Picoting Machine: This machine is suitable for decorative stitches on ladies dresses,shirts,handicraft,necktie,tablecloth etc.Applied with timing belt mechanism,providing smooth & noseless stitching even in high speed running.        

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Fabric Consumption Formula for Woven Garments | Woven Shirt and Pant Consumption Calculation

Fabric of any garment contains most values for their prices and consumption. To make a garment fabric cost is almost 50% other than all cost. For any given FOB price the price of the fabric contain significant role. Wastage of fabric is affected the garments cost other than all costs, so consumption of fabric should be more or less similar to the actual requirement of fabric to make any garment. Simply consumption shows how many fabric is required to make garment. To get more accuracy of any consumption merchandisers should follow the actual marker considering all the sizes that we can get from CAD. Sometimes we need consumption to give quick costing of any style to the respective buyers. Due to this reason we need just a concept that how many fabric we might be required for the garment. If you have to do this then you can follow the below rules it will help you. Knit Fabric Consumption for making T-Shirt or Trouser we have already discussed and now only the woven part.
 

Consumption Formula for Woven Shirt:

 Some Measurements of any shirt-

Collar- 16"
Chest - 48"
CBL -  31"
HPS - 32.5"
Across Back - 21"
SL - 35"
Arm Hole - 21"
Yoke Height - 5"
Cuff - 9"

Cut able Fabric Width - 44"

Fabric Required for Body Portion-

Length = 32.5" + 5"(yoke) + 3.5" (Al) = 41"
Width = 48"+ 5" (Al) = 53"

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (42" x 53" x 12) / (44" x 36")
=17.25 yards/dz

Fabric Required for Sleeve Portion-

Length = 24" + 3"(Al) = 27" (Sleeve length will be deduct from from half across back length because here sleeve length have been given from HPS)
Width = 21"+ 1" (Al) = 22"

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (27" x 22" x 12 x 2 ) / (44" x 36")
=9.42 yards/dz

Total Fabric Requirement =   (17.25 + 9.42) yards/dz = 26.75 yards/dz
If fabric wastage percent is 5%

The total fabric requirement = 26.75 + 1.3 = 28.05 yards/dz

Consumption Formula for Woven Pant:

 

 
Some Measurement

Waist - 35"
Outseam - 42"
Inseam - 3o"
Thigh - 26"
Hip - 44"
Bottom Opening - 18"


Fabric cut able width - 56"

Length = 42" + 2"(Waist Band Height) + 3"(Al) = 45"
(I have considered out seam for length but you can consider inseam along with backrise length and waistband length for total length)

Width = 26"+ 3" (Al) = 29" (In case of 1/2 thigh circular the formula will be multiplied by 4)

Fabric required for making one dz pant

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
 = (45" x 29" x 12) / (56" x 36")
=15.88 yards/dz
= consider as 16 yards/dz
Considering 5% wastage
= 16+0.8 yards/dz
=16.8 yards/dz


Dear readers,
If you have any query please send a mail i will really happy if i can solve your problem as well.

Fabric Consumption Formula for Woven Garments | Woven Shirt and Pant Consumption Calculation

No comments

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Fabric of any garment contains most values for their prices and consumption. To make a garment fabric cost is almost 50% other than all cost. For any given FOB price the price of the fabric contain significant role. Wastage of fabric is affected the garments cost other than all costs, so consumption of fabric should be more or less similar to the actual requirement of fabric to make any garment. Simply consumption shows how many fabric is required to make garment. To get more accuracy of any consumption merchandisers should follow the actual marker considering all the sizes that we can get from CAD. Sometimes we need consumption to give quick costing of any style to the respective buyers. Due to this reason we need just a concept that how many fabric we might be required for the garment. If you have to do this then you can follow the below rules it will help you. Knit Fabric Consumption for making T-Shirt or Trouser we have already discussed and now only the woven part.
 

Consumption Formula for Woven Shirt:

 Some Measurements of any shirt-

Collar- 16"
Chest - 48"
CBL -  31"
HPS - 32.5"
Across Back - 21"
SL - 35"
Arm Hole - 21"
Yoke Height - 5"
Cuff - 9"

Cut able Fabric Width - 44"

Fabric Required for Body Portion-

Length = 32.5" + 5"(yoke) + 3.5" (Al) = 41"
Width = 48"+ 5" (Al) = 53"

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (42" x 53" x 12) / (44" x 36")
=17.25 yards/dz

Fabric Required for Sleeve Portion-

Length = 24" + 3"(Al) = 27" (Sleeve length will be deduct from from half across back length because here sleeve length have been given from HPS)
Width = 21"+ 1" (Al) = 22"

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
= (27" x 22" x 12 x 2 ) / (44" x 36")
=9.42 yards/dz

Total Fabric Requirement =   (17.25 + 9.42) yards/dz = 26.75 yards/dz
If fabric wastage percent is 5%

The total fabric requirement = 26.75 + 1.3 = 28.05 yards/dz

Consumption Formula for Woven Pant:

 

 
Some Measurement

Waist - 35"
Outseam - 42"
Inseam - 3o"
Thigh - 26"
Hip - 44"
Bottom Opening - 18"


Fabric cut able width - 56"

Length = 42" + 2"(Waist Band Height) + 3"(Al) = 45"
(I have considered out seam for length but you can consider inseam along with backrise length and waistband length for total length)

Width = 26"+ 3" (Al) = 29" (In case of 1/2 thigh circular the formula will be multiplied by 4)

Fabric required for making one dz pant

= (Length x Width x 12)/(Fabric Width x Unit)
 = (45" x 29" x 12) / (56" x 36")
=15.88 yards/dz
= consider as 16 yards/dz
Considering 5% wastage
= 16+0.8 yards/dz
=16.8 yards/dz


Dear readers,
If you have any query please send a mail i will really happy if i can solve your problem as well.

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Technologies of Modern Cutting Room of Garments Indsutry | Update Machines of Fabric Cutting in Garments Production

The first stage in the manufacturing of garments is the cutting and for that pattern making is the base. Cutting is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for making garments. Using the markers made from graded patterns and in accordance with the issue plan, fabrics are cut to prepare garment assembly. This is the major operation of the cutting room, of all of the operations in the cutting room this is the most decisive, because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious mistakes.

Fabric cutting can be defined as precise, accurate cutting of fabric according to the shapes of patterns that are kept on the lay of fabric. The task of fabric cutting is very important, because, any mistake in fabric cutting may create difficulties in further processes, sometimes it might be impossible to bring any amendment to such mistake.

Modern Technology in Cutting Room:
Metal blade or knife has been used for fabric cutting since hundred years ago. For last 50 years it is being analyzed to invent other modern alternatives of fabric cutting   instead of using metal blade. Machines which are now being used in fabric cutting are described below-

Straight Knife:
This machine is widely used in apparel industries for cutting of fabrics. The main parts of this machine are-base plate, head and handle.

Benefits from straight knife m/c:
1)Initial investment is low
2)Easy to maintain.
3)It is possible to cut lay height upto 10”.
4)It is possible to cut curve areas more smoothly than that of round knife.

Limitations Of Straight Knife M/C:
1)There might be deflection of knife during cutting due to more height of fabric lay.
2)Knife may be also deflected due to heavy weight of motor.
 3)It is not possible to achieve precise cutting with straight knife as compared to computerized knife cutter.
4) Possibility of accident.

New Modification in Straight Knife:
Today straight knife has been improved more than the earlier version. The machine has been collaborated with an arm hanging from a stand beside the cutting table and the thick base plate has been replaced with a small, thin plate. The hanging arm bears the whole weight of the motor as well as the machine. The standard that is now used also delicate than the earlier one. Because of this modification it has become easier for the operator to operate the machine more swiftly and easily.

Round Knife:
It is round shaped knife. The edge of this knife is very sharp. The main parts of this m/c are base plate, motor, handle, blade guard. The fabric cutting power of round knife is 10 times the power of straight knife with equal r.pm.

Limitations of Round Knife:
1) The lay height up to which fabric may be cut with round knife equals to only 40% of the total diameter of the blade.
2) It is very difficult to cut small pieces it round knife especially curved parts.
3) Skilled operator is required.
4) Not suitable for bulk cutting.

Band Knife:
This machine looks like wood cutting m/c and small in shape. The main parts of this machine are blade, motor,pully.The blade is moved through a definite slot upon the table. The blade of band knife cuts the lay of fabric at 90 angles.

Benefits from Band Knife:
1) Precise cutting is possible.
2)It is convenient to cut small parts.
3)Risk of accident is less than straight and round knife.
4)The use of template makes consistent cutting easier.

Limitations Of Band Knife:
1)Fabric wastage is more.
2)Not suitable for bulk production.
3)This method is not convenient  for cutting comparatively larger parts.

Die Cutting:
Die cutting is mainly of two types such as –Clickers and Presses. The main parts in every type of die cutting m/c are-blade, ram headdie,motor,the method of operating ram and the arrangement of maintaining the height of the ram.

Benefits:
1) This method is convenient for precise cutting of small parts.
2) Not so much time consuming.
3) This method is very suitable for knitted fabric.

Limitations:
1) Fabric wastage is more.
2) Not so much time consuming.
3) Labor cost is high.
4)Not convenient for cutting large panels.

Notcher:  

It is a special type of m/c and it’s uses are limited.Sometimes it is needed to cut small notches in garments where notch m/c is used.Notcher  machine has been invented only for cutting notches.U or V shaped notch can be made with this machine.There are some notches where heat can also be applied.The cutting knife is heated during making notch,which prevents yarn fraying after cutting.Notcher machines can only be used for making notches not for other purposes.

Benefits of Notcher:
i.    Special type of cutting machine used for special purpose where notch of fabric is required
ii.    Very useful to cut small notch of fabric precisely
iii.    Consistency is high during cutting.

Limitations of Notcher:
i.    Only notch of fabric can be cut which is the main limitation of this type of machines
ii.    Thermo fiber fabrics cannot be cut by this machine
iii.    Time consuming process
iv.    Limited use of this type of machines for fabric cutting in garments industry. 

Drills:
Sometimes in order to point different places, especially for placing pockets, for creating dart and so on this machine is used. It is used to create signs amid dresses. It consists of a motor, a base plate, drill and a spirit level. Drill may not be lasted for long time if the fabric is loosely woven. By using hypodermic drill tiny amount of color is scattered along the pores so that it can become easier to find out the signs.

Benefits of Drill:
i.    This machine is required to mark on the end of components of dresses, especially for setting pocket, dart and so on.
ii.    It can make the hole permanently for a long.

Limitations of Drill:
i.    Only used for making hole in the fabric, not suitable for cutting main bulk of any garment.
ii.    For loosely woven fabric it cannot make the hole permanently for a long.

Computer Control Cutting Machine:
The most powerful and productive machine it is where the methods provide the most accurate possible cutting at high speed. It is one of the modern machine which is featured with no maker is required to put over the fabric lays during cutting. The knives are oval shaped and very stiff which are made of stainless steel and having very high sharpness. Completely computer controlling is the prime advantage of this machine where knife itself moves according to the command of computer. So far, it is a machine of Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) and works through Computer Aided Design (CAD).

Benefits of Computer Aided Knife Cutter:
i.    It is capable to cut the fabric very fast.
ii.    Maintain maximum accuracy in cutting with the help of computer.
iii.    Suitable for bulk production in garments industries.
iv.    Controlling over the speed of knife during cutting is another most important of this machine.
v.    Defective cuttings is minimal in comparison of others cutting machine.
vi.    Knife can be moved at any direction thus fabric can be cut at any angle.
vii.    It helps to compress in lays which assist most during fabric cutting.
viii.    Possibility of accident is very low.
ix.    Without marker fabric can be cut which helps to save money as well as time.
x.    It cuts the fabrics 6-8 times faster than manual cutting machines.
xi.    A few people are required to maintain full process of cutting as a result labor cost is very low.

Limitations of Computer Control Knife Cutter:
i.    This machine is very expensive.
ii.    Maintenance cost is very high.
iii.    Few workers are required but these people should be highly skilled.
iv.    Due to incorrect command in computer with different styles, big problem might be arisen.

Plasma Cutting

After the invention of the TIG welding process during World War II it didn’t take engineers long to develop a similar process to be use for cutting.  Instead of using a tungsten electrode to fuse metals together and inert gases to protect it from oxidation, plasma cutting uses a tungsten electrode to melt the metal and a high-pressure inert gas to remove the melted material and an inert gas to protect it from oxidation.  This process was first used by Union Carbide in 1957.  

Advantages of Plasma Cutting versus Oxyacetylene Cutting

a.  No preheating is required.
b.  Faster cutting, a plasma cutter can cut 100% to 700% faster than oxyacetylene cutting. 
c.  Less heat is spread throughout the material resulting in less warping and twisting of the material. 
e.  The increase of cutting speed cuts costs by 40 to 90 percent. 
f.  The ability to cut nonferrous metals (aluminum, stainless steel, etc.), accurately and without oxidizing the ends of the metal.

Types of Plasma Cutters and Gases

1.  Mode of Operation (How it works)

a.  A “plasma arc” is a current of electricity being carried by an ionized gas is stead of a conventional conductor.  Plasma is also considered the 4th state of matter, the first three being solids, liquids, and gases. 
b.  Using the plasma arc and a high-pressure gas to direct the arc through a constricted opening, it becomes a very useful cutting tool.  The plasma arc melts the metal and the gas pressure blows the melted metal away.  Using an inert gas for pressure will prevent the cut areas from oxidizing.  For most ferrous metals, compressed air works just fine, nonferrous metals the inert gas is essential to prevent oxidation. 

2.  Types of Plasma Cutters

a.  Transferred – In the transferred system the arc is completed by making contact with the workpiece. 
b.  Non-transferred – In the non-transferred system the arc is completed by making contact with nozzle, it can produce an arc without touching the grounded workpiece and can be very dangerous. 

Types of Gases

a.  Primary Plasma Gas – used to create the plasma arc

1)  Nitrogen – Is a mixture of 30% hydrogen and 70% argon mixture. 
2)  Argon 
3)  Hydrogen
4)  Compressed Air (The most common type used in high school Ag Mech shops.)

b.  Secondary Shielding Gas – used to protect the cut metals from oxidation. 

1)  CO2
2)  Compressed Air (The most common type used in high school Ag Mech shops.)

Safe Use of a Plasma Cutter

1.  Safety is a very while using a plasma cutter, it can cut through a person’s clothes, skin, and bones just as easily as it can cut through stainless steel.  A non-transfer type of plasma cutter does not need to be grounded to create a plasma arc.  Extra safety precautions need to be taken if you are using this type of plasma cutter.  Be sure to read the manufacture safety precautions before using their plasma cutter. 

Operating a Plasma Cutter
1.  Set the amperage and gas pressure to the manufacture’s specification.  The metal thickness, type, and type of gas being used should be considered. 
2.  When making straight cuts, use a straight edge guide.  Steady you elbow or forearm on the worktable or workpiece while cutting. 
3.  Use at least a #9 gauge or higher welding helmet while cutting with a plasma cutter.  The plasma arc is just as bright as an arc using for TIG, MIG, or Arc welding.
4.  To start your cut, move the plasma torch into position.  Cover with your welding helmet and press down on the start button.  The arc will appear when you press down on the button, move the arc along the marked area where the cut is to be made.  Keep a working distance at least 1/8" and up to3/16", the distance between the workpiece and the nozzle. 
5.  After the cut is made, inspect the cut for slag, rough areas, and uncut areas.  Adjust travel speed and amperage accordingly. 

Activity:
1.  Demonstrate the proper set and shutdown procedures, according to the manufactures’ recommendations.
2.  Use the owner’s manual, take apart the torch and show students the different parts of a plasma torch. 
3.  Demonstrate cutting mild steel, stainless steel, and aluminum with the plasma cutter. 
4.  Have students make cuts using the plasma cutter.

Technologies of Modern Cutting Room of Garments Indsutry | Update Machines of Fabric Cutting in Garments Production

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The first stage in the manufacturing of garments is the cutting and for that pattern making is the base. Cutting is the process which cut out the pattern pieces from specified fabric for making garments. Using the markers made from graded patterns and in accordance with the issue plan, fabrics are cut to prepare garment assembly. This is the major operation of the cutting room, of all of the operations in the cutting room this is the most decisive, because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious mistakes.

Fabric cutting can be defined as precise, accurate cutting of fabric according to the shapes of patterns that are kept on the lay of fabric. The task of fabric cutting is very important, because, any mistake in fabric cutting may create difficulties in further processes, sometimes it might be impossible to bring any amendment to such mistake.

Modern Technology in Cutting Room:
Metal blade or knife has been used for fabric cutting since hundred years ago. For last 50 years it is being analyzed to invent other modern alternatives of fabric cutting   instead of using metal blade. Machines which are now being used in fabric cutting are described below-

Straight Knife:
This machine is widely used in apparel industries for cutting of fabrics. The main parts of this machine are-base plate, head and handle.

Benefits from straight knife m/c:
1)Initial investment is low
2)Easy to maintain.
3)It is possible to cut lay height upto 10”.
4)It is possible to cut curve areas more smoothly than that of round knife.

Limitations Of Straight Knife M/C:
1)There might be deflection of knife during cutting due to more height of fabric lay.
2)Knife may be also deflected due to heavy weight of motor.
 3)It is not possible to achieve precise cutting with straight knife as compared to computerized knife cutter.
4) Possibility of accident.

New Modification in Straight Knife:
Today straight knife has been improved more than the earlier version. The machine has been collaborated with an arm hanging from a stand beside the cutting table and the thick base plate has been replaced with a small, thin plate. The hanging arm bears the whole weight of the motor as well as the machine. The standard that is now used also delicate than the earlier one. Because of this modification it has become easier for the operator to operate the machine more swiftly and easily.

Round Knife:
It is round shaped knife. The edge of this knife is very sharp. The main parts of this m/c are base plate, motor, handle, blade guard. The fabric cutting power of round knife is 10 times the power of straight knife with equal r.pm.

Limitations of Round Knife:
1) The lay height up to which fabric may be cut with round knife equals to only 40% of the total diameter of the blade.
2) It is very difficult to cut small pieces it round knife especially curved parts.
3) Skilled operator is required.
4) Not suitable for bulk cutting.

Band Knife:
This machine looks like wood cutting m/c and small in shape. The main parts of this machine are blade, motor,pully.The blade is moved through a definite slot upon the table. The blade of band knife cuts the lay of fabric at 90 angles.

Benefits from Band Knife:
1) Precise cutting is possible.
2)It is convenient to cut small parts.
3)Risk of accident is less than straight and round knife.
4)The use of template makes consistent cutting easier.

Limitations Of Band Knife:
1)Fabric wastage is more.
2)Not suitable for bulk production.
3)This method is not convenient  for cutting comparatively larger parts.

Die Cutting:
Die cutting is mainly of two types such as –Clickers and Presses. The main parts in every type of die cutting m/c are-blade, ram headdie,motor,the method of operating ram and the arrangement of maintaining the height of the ram.

Benefits:
1) This method is convenient for precise cutting of small parts.
2) Not so much time consuming.
3) This method is very suitable for knitted fabric.

Limitations:
1) Fabric wastage is more.
2) Not so much time consuming.
3) Labor cost is high.
4)Not convenient for cutting large panels.

Notcher:  

It is a special type of m/c and it’s uses are limited.Sometimes it is needed to cut small notches in garments where notch m/c is used.Notcher  machine has been invented only for cutting notches.U or V shaped notch can be made with this machine.There are some notches where heat can also be applied.The cutting knife is heated during making notch,which prevents yarn fraying after cutting.Notcher machines can only be used for making notches not for other purposes.

Benefits of Notcher:
i.    Special type of cutting machine used for special purpose where notch of fabric is required
ii.    Very useful to cut small notch of fabric precisely
iii.    Consistency is high during cutting.

Limitations of Notcher:
i.    Only notch of fabric can be cut which is the main limitation of this type of machines
ii.    Thermo fiber fabrics cannot be cut by this machine
iii.    Time consuming process
iv.    Limited use of this type of machines for fabric cutting in garments industry. 

Drills:
Sometimes in order to point different places, especially for placing pockets, for creating dart and so on this machine is used. It is used to create signs amid dresses. It consists of a motor, a base plate, drill and a spirit level. Drill may not be lasted for long time if the fabric is loosely woven. By using hypodermic drill tiny amount of color is scattered along the pores so that it can become easier to find out the signs.

Benefits of Drill:
i.    This machine is required to mark on the end of components of dresses, especially for setting pocket, dart and so on.
ii.    It can make the hole permanently for a long.

Limitations of Drill:
i.    Only used for making hole in the fabric, not suitable for cutting main bulk of any garment.
ii.    For loosely woven fabric it cannot make the hole permanently for a long.

Computer Control Cutting Machine:
The most powerful and productive machine it is where the methods provide the most accurate possible cutting at high speed. It is one of the modern machine which is featured with no maker is required to put over the fabric lays during cutting. The knives are oval shaped and very stiff which are made of stainless steel and having very high sharpness. Completely computer controlling is the prime advantage of this machine where knife itself moves according to the command of computer. So far, it is a machine of Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) and works through Computer Aided Design (CAD).

Benefits of Computer Aided Knife Cutter:
i.    It is capable to cut the fabric very fast.
ii.    Maintain maximum accuracy in cutting with the help of computer.
iii.    Suitable for bulk production in garments industries.
iv.    Controlling over the speed of knife during cutting is another most important of this machine.
v.    Defective cuttings is minimal in comparison of others cutting machine.
vi.    Knife can be moved at any direction thus fabric can be cut at any angle.
vii.    It helps to compress in lays which assist most during fabric cutting.
viii.    Possibility of accident is very low.
ix.    Without marker fabric can be cut which helps to save money as well as time.
x.    It cuts the fabrics 6-8 times faster than manual cutting machines.
xi.    A few people are required to maintain full process of cutting as a result labor cost is very low.

Limitations of Computer Control Knife Cutter:
i.    This machine is very expensive.
ii.    Maintenance cost is very high.
iii.    Few workers are required but these people should be highly skilled.
iv.    Due to incorrect command in computer with different styles, big problem might be arisen.

Plasma Cutting

After the invention of the TIG welding process during World War II it didn’t take engineers long to develop a similar process to be use for cutting.  Instead of using a tungsten electrode to fuse metals together and inert gases to protect it from oxidation, plasma cutting uses a tungsten electrode to melt the metal and a high-pressure inert gas to remove the melted material and an inert gas to protect it from oxidation.  This process was first used by Union Carbide in 1957.  

Advantages of Plasma Cutting versus Oxyacetylene Cutting

a.  No preheating is required.
b.  Faster cutting, a plasma cutter can cut 100% to 700% faster than oxyacetylene cutting. 
c.  Less heat is spread throughout the material resulting in less warping and twisting of the material. 
e.  The increase of cutting speed cuts costs by 40 to 90 percent. 
f.  The ability to cut nonferrous metals (aluminum, stainless steel, etc.), accurately and without oxidizing the ends of the metal.

Types of Plasma Cutters and Gases

1.  Mode of Operation (How it works)

a.  A “plasma arc” is a current of electricity being carried by an ionized gas is stead of a conventional conductor.  Plasma is also considered the 4th state of matter, the first three being solids, liquids, and gases. 
b.  Using the plasma arc and a high-pressure gas to direct the arc through a constricted opening, it becomes a very useful cutting tool.  The plasma arc melts the metal and the gas pressure blows the melted metal away.  Using an inert gas for pressure will prevent the cut areas from oxidizing.  For most ferrous metals, compressed air works just fine, nonferrous metals the inert gas is essential to prevent oxidation. 

2.  Types of Plasma Cutters

a.  Transferred – In the transferred system the arc is completed by making contact with the workpiece. 
b.  Non-transferred – In the non-transferred system the arc is completed by making contact with nozzle, it can produce an arc without touching the grounded workpiece and can be very dangerous. 

Types of Gases

a.  Primary Plasma Gas – used to create the plasma arc

1)  Nitrogen – Is a mixture of 30% hydrogen and 70% argon mixture. 
2)  Argon 
3)  Hydrogen
4)  Compressed Air (The most common type used in high school Ag Mech shops.)

b.  Secondary Shielding Gas – used to protect the cut metals from oxidation. 

1)  CO2
2)  Compressed Air (The most common type used in high school Ag Mech shops.)

Safe Use of a Plasma Cutter

1.  Safety is a very while using a plasma cutter, it can cut through a person’s clothes, skin, and bones just as easily as it can cut through stainless steel.  A non-transfer type of plasma cutter does not need to be grounded to create a plasma arc.  Extra safety precautions need to be taken if you are using this type of plasma cutter.  Be sure to read the manufacture safety precautions before using their plasma cutter. 

Operating a Plasma Cutter
1.  Set the amperage and gas pressure to the manufacture’s specification.  The metal thickness, type, and type of gas being used should be considered. 
2.  When making straight cuts, use a straight edge guide.  Steady you elbow or forearm on the worktable or workpiece while cutting. 
3.  Use at least a #9 gauge or higher welding helmet while cutting with a plasma cutter.  The plasma arc is just as bright as an arc using for TIG, MIG, or Arc welding.
4.  To start your cut, move the plasma torch into position.  Cover with your welding helmet and press down on the start button.  The arc will appear when you press down on the button, move the arc along the marked area where the cut is to be made.  Keep a working distance at least 1/8" and up to3/16", the distance between the workpiece and the nozzle. 
5.  After the cut is made, inspect the cut for slag, rough areas, and uncut areas.  Adjust travel speed and amperage accordingly. 

Activity:
1.  Demonstrate the proper set and shutdown procedures, according to the manufactures’ recommendations.
2.  Use the owner’s manual, take apart the torch and show students the different parts of a plasma torch. 
3.  Demonstrate cutting mild steel, stainless steel, and aluminum with the plasma cutter. 
4.  Have students make cuts using the plasma cutter.

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